How to Design and Build a Paver Walkway

Check the string layout for square. The string layout is square when the diagonal measurements are equal.

Use a line level to make sure the strings are level.

For curves, mark with a hose, using a 2-by-4 to keep the width the same. Then cut the sod with a spade. The cuts will indicate where you should dig after you remove the hose.

The walkway should slope away from the house. Plan for about a 1/4-inch drop per foot. A 2-foot level with a 1/2-inch block of wood attached to the end is helpful to check the slope as you're digging. If possible, use the natural slope of the yard.

After you've marked your layout, remove the sod and dirt. The total depth will depend on the paver height along with the base. The pavers should sit at or a little above ground level. You'll need to match the height of an existing patio if you have one. Dig the trench a little wider than the walkway, allowing room for the paver panels as well as edge restraints to hold the pavers in place. Use the level with the attached block to keep the slope uniform. For large excavations, consider renting a sod cutter.

If you're installing landscape lighting, bury the cables now.

When the ground is solid, add a weed barrier trimmed to extend slightly beyond the area.

Pull a straight 2-by-4 along the pipes to screed or level the sand and create a flat surface. Make sure the sand base maintains the necessary slope.

Remove the pipes and fill in with more sand. Repeat the process as necessary to create a bed of sand across the entire layout.

Set the first paver panel against a straight edge — such as a patio — if possible. The next panel should overlap the grooves of the adjacent panels.

If your work area is more than one panel wide, stagger the joints so the panels create a more stable base for the pavers. Continue installing the panels to cover the walkway area.

Mark the excess, noting that the panels should extend a few inches beyond the final width of the walkway. Cut a 2-by-4 wider than the walkway to use as a guide.

Cut away the excess with a utility knife.

Leave a small gap — 1/4 inch for this walkway — between the blocks. You can use a straight edge to keep the blocks in line. Use a 2-by-4 cut to length to maintain the width of the walkway as you work.

Install edging along the perimeter as you go with spikes every 12 inches.

Continue installing the rest of the walkway. Periodically check to make sure the walkway surface is uniform. To adjust, add sand underneath pavers or tap them down with a rubber mallet. Maintain the proper slope.

To cut the blocks, mark them — a speed square helps you mark for angled cuts — and clamp one at a time to a stable work surface, cutting each with a circular saw and concrete blade. You may need to make several passes, lowering the blade a little bit each time. Note that concrete dust can collect in the saw and lead to motor wear, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions to blow out accumulated dust.

If you’re laying the blocks tightly against each other in one direction to create a curve, mark the curve with a hose and then cut the blocks in place with a circular saw.

Use a hand tamper to help settle the blocks. Add more sand and repeat as needed.

Remove all of the excess sand with a leaf blower. Pay special attention to textures and crevices on the pavers. Be sure no polymeric sand or dust from the sand remains — it creates a permanent, white haze after it comes into contact with moisture.

Cut away the excess weed barrier.