How to Lay Pavers: Installing Pavers for a DIY Patio

Check for square. The layout is square when the diagonal measurements are equal.

Use a line level to make sure the strings are level.

Plan for the proper slope. The patio needs to slope away from the house — about a 1-inch drop every 4 feet. A 4-foot level with a 1-inch block of wood attached to the end is helpful to check the slope as you’re digging. Use your yard’s natural slope if possible.

Remove the sod and dirt. The total depth you dig depends on the paver height along with the base. The pavers should sit at or a little above ground level. Dig about 6 inches beyond the strings. The extra space provides room for paver edging to hold the pavers in place. For large excavations, consider renting a sod cutter. As you dig, use the level and block to keep the slope uniform.

If you’re installing landscape lighting, bury the cables now.

After you’ve removed the dirt, tamp the area with a rented plate compactor. You can use a hand tamper for small areas, but the plate compactor makes the job easier and quicker.

We’re adding a low retaining wall along a hill at the edge of the layout. It sits on the gravel base and is held together with construction adhesive. If the yard slopes more than 1 inch every 4 feet, a wall helps contain the patio when you build it up to the recommended slope. Watch How to Build a Retaining Wall for more details on retaining walls.

Place two lengths of 1-inch outside-diameter polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipe across the area. The pipes will help you get the correct depth of leveling sand. You’ll remove them before laying patio pavers.

Pour the paver sand and pull a straight two-by-four along the pipes to screed or level the sand and create a flat surface. Work your way across the patio area. Remove the pipes and fill in the gaps with more sand. Repeat the process as necessary to create a bed of sand across the entire area.

Periodically check that the tops are even. To adjust, add sand underneath pavers or tap them down with a rubber mallet.

Use a straightedge to keep the blocks in line. Remember to maintain the correct slope.

After you get some of the pavers in place, install plastic edging or paver restraints along the perimeter with spikes spaced about every foot.

You’ll most likely need to cut some blocks to fit. A speed square helps you mark for angled cuts. Mark the blocks and clamp them one at a time to a stable work surface, cutting each with a circular saw and concrete blade. You may need to make several passes, lowering the blade a little bit each time. Note that concrete dust can collect in the saw and lead to motor wear — follow the manufacturer’s instructions to blow out accumulated dust.

Blow off all of the excess sand with a leaf blower. Pay special attention to textures and crevices on the pavers. Make sure no polymeric sand or dust from the sand remains because it’ll create a permanent white haze after it comes into contact with moisture. Once you’ve removed all of the sand and dust, lightly spray the patio with a hose, and allow the sand to cure for 24 hours. Remember to cut away any excess weed barrier around the perimeter of the patio.