How to Build Railings on a Deck and Install Wood Decking

Cut the posts to length according to your plan and local codes. The bottom ends of the posts will be flush with the bottom edges of the rim and end joists.

Deck anchors attached to the inside of the joists make stronger railings. Along the end joists, use deck screws to attach extra bracing between the end joists and floor joists to mount the anchors. Cut the bracing from the same 2 x lumber you used for the joists (2 x 8 lumber for this deck).

Screw a post in place, making sure it's plumb and extends to the bottom of the joist.

Line up the anchor so the bolt hole is at the center of the post and about 2 inches from the top of the joist. Mark the hole on the joist and drill through the joist and post at the mark.

Line up the anchor with the hole in the joist and attach it to the bracing with screws. Run a carriage bolt through the hole and secure the post with a washer and a nut.

Drill a second bolt hole through the post and joist about 2 inches above the bottom of the joist.

Secure a second carriage bolt through the bottom hole.

Attach an anchor on the back of the bracing for added strength.

Continue installing the posts. Along the rim joist, for posts next to floor joists, you can attach a piece of bracing with nails to secure the anchor so it doesn't interfere with the joist hanger. The bracing should be of the same 2 x material you used for the joists (in this case, 2 x 8 lumber) and at least 16 inches in length.

You also need to install bracing to secure the anchors for posts on the rim joist that are in between floor joists. Attach 2 x lumber between the floor joists as you did above, then attach a second piece of lumber between the rim joist and bracing to secure the anchor.

Starting near the house, set the straightest decking board in place flush with the rim joist. Check the board for square.

Drill pilot holes about 1 inch from the edge of the board and into the rim joist.

Drive in decking screws. Continue securing the deck board to the joists with screws along the entire board.

The method for laying the remaining deck boards depends on whether they are wet or dry.

• If you're working with wet lumber — pressure-treated lumber delivered from the store is typically wet — pull the next board against the first and secure it with two screws in each joist. The boards will contract as they dry, creating a gap to allow drainage.
• If the deck boards are dry, you'll need to create the drainage gap as you build. Use 8d nails as temporary spacers between boards to set them the proper distance apart.

Use a jigsaw to notch around posts and other obstructions to fit the boards.

Continue installing the decking, checking for square every few boards. Remember to pull them together or space them depending on the condition of the lumber (as noted Step 5 above).

When you get near the end of the deck, dry lay the boards to determine the width of the last board. If you're installing skirting, remember to account for a 1-1/4-inch overhang with the final board. If you're not installing skirting, make it flush with the rim joist.

If the final board is too narrow, you can rip a little off of the last few boards — cut along the length of the boards — to allow it to be wider.

Round over the edges of the last board with a router.

Remove the parting boards and use a router to round over the ends of the decking that butt up to the parting boards. Secure the parting boards back in place.

If you plan to install skirting, snap a chalk line on the boards allowing a 1-1/4-inch overhang at the joists. Cut away the excess. If you're not installing skirting, cut the decking flush with the joists.

Secure top rails so the top edges are flush with the tops of the posts.

Secure the rail caps centered over the top rail and posts. Join the rail caps at corners with miter joints for a clean look.

Drill pilot holes in the balusters and secure them to the top and bottom rails with screws. Check your local code for spacing requirements. Baluster spacing of 3-1/2 spacing is common. If the spacing between a baluster and post isn't equal, you can adjust the baluster placement slightly.