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Storage abounds inside and out on this rotating cabinet you can customize for your bath, family room, or office space.
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Using a straightedge and a circular saw, cut the sides (A), case top (B), and case bottom (C) to size (Project Diagrams, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram).
Prior to installing any of the parts, sand both part faces with 120-grit sandpaper. Once the project is complete, use the same sandpaper to soften all of the sharp edges.
Glue and nail one of the sides to the case top. A clamp aids the assembly while securing the parts. Then add the bottom (Project Diagrams, Drawing 1). Note that when installing the bottom, the part is 1/4 inch shorter than the top to allow you to add shelf trim (F) later.
Wood glue alone is strong enough to use to construct this tower; nails or screws primarily speed construction. Instead of waiting for glue to dry before removing clamps, add nails or screws, remove the clamps, and move on. This project can be assembled with 1-1/2-inch-long nails from a nail gun, hand-driven nails, or flathead screws. You’ll cover all nail-head or screw-head holes with wood filler before painting.
Measure the distance between the top and the bottom, and cut the divider (D) to size. The width will match the top and bottom; note that the length will be slightly longer than the dimensions given due to variations in plywood thickness (Project Diagrams, Drawing 2).
Cut the small shelves (E) to size and the shelf trim (F) to length. Glue and nail the trim to the shelves; sand the parts with 120-grit sandpaper (Project Diagrams, Drawing 3).
Place a shelf assembly against the case top and position the divider in the cabinet against the top. Glue and nail through the case top to secure the divider. Use the same shelf to position the bottom of the divider.
Measure for the length of the large shelves (G) based on the actual placement of the divider, and cut the parts to size (Project Diagrams, Cutting Diagram). Mark out the locations of the shelves on the divider and install the large shelves using glue and nails (Project Diagrams, Drawing 2). Check each shelf with a combination of squares.
To install the small shelves and trim, apply glue to the back edge of the shelves and drive nails through the side. With all of the shelves complete, add the remaining side with glue and nails.
Start by cutting the base (H), base sides (I), and base front/back (J) to size (Project Diagrams, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram). Glue and nail the sides and the front/back to the base (Project Diagram, Drawing 4).
Turn the base upright and draw centerlines across the top of the base assembly (Project Diagram, Drawing 4). Position the 12-inch lazy Susan on top of the base with the screw holes centered on the center cross lines. Center the lines in each screw hole and the hardware will be centered on the base. Mark the location of the access hole through both plates on the base and remove the hardware.
Drill a 3/4-inch access hole through the base (H) at this location to attach the top portion of the lazy Susan to the bottom of the cabinet. Place the lazy Susan back on the base assembly and secure with screws.
Cut the base trim (K) and the base side trim (J) (Project Diagrams, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram) and cut a miter on one end of each piece. Hold the trim in position against the base assembly with the first miter aligned on one end. Mark the location of the second miter.
Cut each part and test the fit around the cabinet (use painter’s tape to hold the pieces in position). When satisfied with the cuts, remove the parts, add glue, and secure with brads.
For a thicker edge around the top, cut the top spacers (M) and top side spacers (N) to length (Project Diagrams, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram), and glue and nail them to the top (Project Diagram, Drawing 5) with their edges even with the sides of the case.
Cut the top (O), glue and nail the top to the cabinet centered on the spacers.
From the base moulding, cut the top trim (P), and the top side trim (Q) oversize (Project Diagrams, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram).
Flip the tower over to rest it on the top. Add the top trim in a similar fashion as the base: Cut one miter on each piece (Project Diagram, Drawing 5), hold the trim in position, and mark the location of the second miter.
Miter-cut each part and tape in place to test the fit around the cabinet. When satisfied with the part lengths, glue and nail the trim in place.
With the cabinet still on its top, center the base on the tower.
To attach the base assembly, use the access hole drilled earlier in the base (H) (Project Diagram, Drawing 6). Look through the hole and rotate the base until it aligns with a hole in the opposite side of the lazy Susan. Drive a screw to attach the lazy Susan to the bottom of the case. Then rotate the base approximately 90 degrees and drive the second screw. Repeat for the two remaining screws.
Reverse the previous step to remove the base; then remove the lazy Susan from the base assembly. Fill all of the nail or screw holes on the outside of the tower and base with wood filler. Allow the filler to dry, and sand the filler smooth with 180-grit sandpaper.
Use the same filler to fill any voids in the plywood edges and sand smooth. Slightly round the corners for a soft touch.
Prime and paint the case and base in your choice of colors. Lightly sand between coats with a medium-grit sanding sponge for an ultra-smooth finish. Attach the base to the cabinet and add exterior hardware or hooks to suit your storage needs.