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This simple wrapping station you can build in a weekend organizes gift-giving supplies for year-round use.
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Cut the bottom (A), sides (B), and tops (C) to size (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Drawing 1). One end of each side and both ends of the tops require 30-degree cuts.
Lightly sand the parts with 150-grit sandpaper, then assemble using glue and 4d finish nails.
When driving nails near the end of a board, drill a pilot hole to reduce the chance of splitting the board. Pilot holes also make it easier to nail at an angle. The pilot hole should be slightly smaller than the nail diameter. With a 4d finish nail, use a 1/16-inch diameter bit.
Cut the bottom face (D) to length. Glue and nail it to the edge of the bottom so the face overlaps the connections where the bottom and sides meet (Project Diagram, Drawing 2).
Overlapping boards where they meet is called a lap joint. The combination of overlap, nails, and glue creates a strong joint. Use a framing square to verify the corners form a 90-degree angle before attaching the bottom face.
Cut the side faces (E), the right top face (F), and left top face (G) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List) with no angled ends. Place a side face in position (Project Diagram, Drawing 2) and mark the location of the angle cut at the top end.
Up to this point each part was cut to a specific dimension with specific angles. The remaining parts are cut to fit for greater precision and to accommodate small cutting errors.
Cut marked boards to length with a miter saw, then glue and nail them in place so the top of a side face (E) overlaps the tops (C), creating another lap joint. Repeat for the second side face.
Cut a 30-degree miter on one end of the right top face (F) and position it on the frame. Mark where the board overlaps the tops (C) at the peak of the frame and cut-to-fit. Glue and nail it to the top (C).
For the final frame face, make a 30-degree cut on the left top frame (G) and rest it in position on the frame against the side (C) to overlap the right top face. Place a spacer under the end of the board and mark the part length.
When measuring or marking a board to fit, always rest the part or your tape measure in position so the part is straight and flat, not angled. Without the spacer, the resulting mark and cut will produce a poor fit.
Use a nail set to drive any nail heads slightly below the surface of the wood and fill the holes and any visible joints with paintable wood filler. When the filler dries, sand the frame.
Cut a piece of hardboard pegboard to size (Project Diagram, Drawing 3). Sand all of the components and apply primer and paint to the pegboard and to the wooden frame in the colors you desire.
When the paint has dried, center the pegboard panel in the back of the frame, and secure with panhead screws and washers (Project Diagram, Drawing 4).
Attach two D-ring hangers to the back edge of the sides (B).
Place two 18-in x 35-in x 23.75-in base cabinets against the wall in the desired location. The cabinets should be a minimum of 23 inches apart and a maximum of 48 inches apart to allow space for a stool and for the counter to span the opening. Cut and remove the section of baseboard where the cabinets will be installed against the wall.
Use an electronic stud finder to locate the wall studs behind the cabinets. Then screw through the backs of the cabinets into the wall studs.
For the top (I), cut a piece of 3/4-inch-thick plywood to 24-1/2 inches wide and 1 inch longer than the distance between the outside edges of the installed cabinets - ours was 60-inches long.
From 1 x 2 boards, cut the table side trim (J) to fit the ends of the top. Fasten the side trim to the plywood ends with glue and 4d finish nails. Cut the table front trim (K) to fit the front edge of the top assembly, and glue and nail it to the plywood edge and table sides.
Sand the tabletop and cabinets and then apply your choice of finish. We chose to paint the cabinets and apply a stain to the countertop.
When the finish dries, apply a bead of silicone caulk adhesive to the tops of the cabinets and rest the countertop in place.
On the back of the pegboard organizer, measure from the tops of the D-ring hangers to the bottom edge and add three inches. Mark a line on the wall that distance above the desktop. Insert two wall anchors along the line separated the same distance as between the D-ring hangers so the pegboard will be centered over the desk. Drive two #8 screws into the wall anchors and hang the pegboard. Add peg hooks as needed for your wrapping supplies.
As an accessory for hanging ribbons or rolls of tape, attach an open-ended paper towel holder to one of the desk cabinets.