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Is It More Affordable to Buy or Make Butcher Block Countertops?

Both making your own butcher block and buying it are affordable options for your kitchen. Making your own will likely save you even more than buying it, especially if you already own most of the tools. Cutting, shaping and finishing your own butcher block slab can be a fun and satisfying project.

However, if you install your own butcher block, you can save even more by avoiding the labor costs of hiring independent contractors.

What Kind of Wood Do You Use to Make a Butcher Block?

There are several factors to think about when choosing wooden countertops for your kitchen:

Toxicity: Some woods contain natural toxins that can contaminate foods if you're not careful. It's best to avoid exotic woods like purpleheart and choose instead woods from trees with edible nuts, leaves, fruit or sap, which are typically food safe.
Hardness: Harder woods like maple and beech resist denting and stand up better to the effects of chopping, cutting, slicing and other common food prep work. Look for the Janka hardness rating, an industry standard.
Porosity: Open-grain woods like ash will absorb water and stains more quickly, which can be hard to remove and encourage mold and bacteria. Instead, look for close-grain woods like beech, maple and birch.
Flavor: Pine can leave a resinous taste, spoiling your food.

Butcher Block Countertop Pros and Cons

Pros: Wood offers a natural warmth and appeal. It's an affordable option that still adds a contemporary feel; it's easy to clean, and you can choose your wood, graining and coloring.
Cons: Wood will absorb water, so it needs periodic sealing to prevent mold and bacteria from developing. It might also expand or contract in response to temperature; hot pots and pans can cause damage to the countertop.

How Thick Should Butcher Block Counters Be?

Butcher block is commonly between 1-1/2 to 2 inches thick. Thicker cuts can look attractive, too, though they will add expense. Don't choose a block that's too thick or your countertops will look heavy and overbearing.

How to Install Butcher Block Counters

Installing a butcher block countertop can be a more advanced project than you might think. We used an undermount sink, so was important for the top to be waterproof. Depending on the size of your kitchen, several pieces of countertop may be needed.

Good to Know

If you don't have all the necessary tools on hand, you can rent them from Lowe's.

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Installing Butcher Block Cabinets

Make a drawing of the cabinet layout. Measure along the walls on all sides and also along the cabinet fronts.

Cabinets are typically 24 or 24-1/2 inches deep. The cabinets for this project are just under 25 inches so the countertop will meet the front edge and have about a 1/8-inch expansion gap along the walls. The gap will be covered with a 4-inch backsplash.

Now check the depth from the walls to the front of the cabinet doors or drawers in as many places as possible.

A diagram of kitchen countertop corner using a butt joint.

Now that you have your measurements, it’s time to come up with a plan. If there's a short, straight run of cabinets, you'll most likely install a single length of countertop. If you have to turn a corner, two pieces will need to be seamed together. The two types of seams are butt joints and miter joints. We’re installing the butt joint, which is the easier of the two.

Any other seams along the top are up to you. If you don't want a seam at the sink, place it elsewhere.

Good to Know

Some butcher block has to acclimate to the room where it's being installed. Check the instructions on your piece. If it'll be stored for a few days before starting this project, keep it wrapped and away from heat vents as that can cause the wood to warp.

An illustration of kitchen cabinets without a countertop.

For kitchens with a lot of angles or that are u-shaped, consider making a template. Use thin strips of straight cardboard or 1/8-inch paneling, and set the pieces in place over the front of the cabinets to mark the front edge. Make sure they’re even along the front.

Temporarily mark the back too. Next, with the pieces cut to the depth of the countertop, set them perpendicular to the front edge. Then secure them with hot glue.

Create templates for each run of cabinets to see where the seams need to be placed and if the countertop needs to be scribed along the wall. Then lay the templates on top of your butcher block to mark the cuts.

A person cutting a butcher block with a circular saw.

Cut the pieces one at a time, and then check the fit after each cut. These countertops have an eased edge. At the joints, we cut off this rounded edge to create flat seams.

Start with the corner piece (A) first. Since the corner cabinet is deeper than the standard countertop depth, we cut down a larger kitchen island piece to fit.

Mark the length on the top. Use a saw guide to create a straight cut. Apply painters tape before cutting to prevent the wood from chipping.

Measure the distance from the saw shoe to the side of the blade, and transfer that to the butcher block. The blade should cut into the excess side of the line. Secure the guide to the top, start the saw and make the cut. Rotate the piece and cut the adjacent side to fit.

Set the corner piece in place, and make sure the front edge is where you want it. Clamp it if possible. We’ll round off this part of the cut edge later.

Now set the next piece (B) on the cabinet over the sink. Line up the front and keep it tight against the corner piece. For the sink cutout, transfer the center mark on the wall to the butcher block. Also transfer the marks on the front of the sink if needed.

Next, use a combo square to get the distance from the front of the countertop to the cabinet face, and transfer that to the top. It's needed to line up the sink template.

Our sink template has two options for the countertop reveal. We’re going with no reveal. Cut out the template, and line up the center mark from the wall. Also, line up the countertop depth mark and trace the template.

Drill starter holes with a hole saw at the corners. This radius is about 2 inches. Next, set up the straight edge to cut along the lines. Make sure the blade is to the excess side of the line, and stop just short of the starting hole.

For the backside line, line up the saw blade, pull back the guard and slowly plunge it into the material to make the cut.

If there's any additional material to cut, use a good jigsaw with a new blade to carefully make the cuts. Fit the top in place, and check the front edge. Also, make sure the top covers the sink flange.

For the last piece (C), measure from the middle slab to the wall along the back and the front of the cabinets. Transfer those measurements to the butcher block and cut. If the wall bows, use a belt sander to shave some of the material off. Check the fit.

Back at the corner, mark where pieces (AB) come together. Those will be needed later for reference.

A person sanding the rough edges of a counter with a Craftsman orbital sander.

Once there's a good fit, smooth out any rough edges using fine-grit sandpaper. Use a sander or sandpaper to create the eased edge to match the factory edge.

Don’t sand off the corner reference mark yet. It's needed to join the seams.

If you want to use a router to make the eased edge, use a 1/8-inch roundover bit set to the correct depth. Test it on a scrap piece. When it looks good, run the router over the butcher block edges. Keep the butcher block on your left, and move the router forward.

A person connecting two pieces of a countertop with miter bolts.

There are several options for connecting the pieces. A pocket hole jig will create angled holes for screws to secure the pieces together. Drill the holes about every 6 inches. Check to ensure the screws will drive into the piece with the cross-grain.

Miter bolts are used to hold the pieces together. Lay the pieces topside down, and line up the reference mark for the corner. Draw marks across each seam for the miter bolts.

With a router, set a 1/2-inch straight cut bit to a depth of about 1/2 inch. Then cut a channel into the slabs to create a space for the bolt. Move the router slowly using a high cutting speed. Create a wider area on the head side so you can fit a wrench in to tighten.

Before putting everything back together, apply a coat of sealant to all sides of the countertop. There are various sealants available. Since this countertop is going to be exposed to water with an undermount sink, we used a waterproof tung oil sealant.

Follow the directions for your sealer. After everything has been sanded, clean it with a tack cloth. Then apply the sealant with a natural bristle brush or a lint-free rag. Remember to coat the entire butcher block: the top, sides and bottom. Allow it to dry, and then add a second coat. Let it dry before setting it in place.

Caution

If you plan to use the countertop for food prep or baking, look for a sealer that's food safe.

To secure the slabs to the cabinets, use brackets with elongated holes to allow the wood to expand and contract or cabinet corner braces. Ream the holes to make them larger if needed.

Piece the countertop together on the cabinets. If you have help, you can do it before setting it in place.

Now apply a bead of sealant to the top of the farmhouse sink. Then lower the countertop into place. Make sure the miter bolt channels are lined up before tightening the bolts. The front edge should line up along the cabinets. Clamp it to keep it from moving. Then secure the top in place with washers and screws through the cabinet braces and brackets.

When everything looks good, cut the holes for the faucet and accessories with a hole saw. Remember to seal the bare wood.

A person sealing butcher block counter top joints with silicone.

After the backsplash is secured, apply a few more coats of sealer to the countertop following the manufacturer’s instructions. Use a lint-free rag for the finish coats.

After the last coat of wood sealer has dried, apply silicone sealant along the walls, where the backsplash meets the countertop and where the countertop meets the sink. Add silicone around the front edge of the sink. Follow up with a smoothing tool.

A person putting plumbers putty around a sink drain.

Once the sealant has cured, it's time to reconnect the plumbing. Start by installing the faucet. Slide it into the hole, and tighten the nut onto the stem. Secure it with screws and connect the supply lines to the water valves.

Our faucet has a pull-down spray head. Just connect the hose and secure the weight. To reconnect the drain, roll a piece of plumbers putty in your hands. Press it into place around the sink hole and insert the strainer. Using a drain wrench, secure the strainer underneath with a washer and nut. Don't overtighten. Then clean the excess putty off the top. Some cast-iron sinks have thick walls and might require an extended drain flange.

Next, hook up the P-trap and drain. Dry-fit everything first, and mark the fittings with a pen before gluing them. For polyvinyl chloride (PVC) stand pipe or waste pipe connections, apply PVC primer to the fitting and the pipe. Then apply PVC cement. Slide the fitting into place, and give it a quarter turn to line up the marks. Hold it for a few seconds.

Now at the sink hole side, use slip nuts for an easy hookup. Ensure all the washers are in place and hand-tighten.

Once everything is installed, run the water to check for leaks. Reset the washers and nuts if it’s leaking. Finish up by applying a moisture barrier tape above the dishwasher.

Don’t have time to do this project yourself? Check out our professional countertop installation service.

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How to Install a Butcher Block Countertop