How to Install a Butcher Block Countertop

Keep these factors in mind when you plan: 

• A single length of butcher block can often cover a short, straight run of cabinets.
• If the countertop turns corners,  you need to join pieces with a straight butt joint or an angled miter joint.
• You may need to adjust your plan for seam placement, such as keeping a seam away from the sink.

We’re using three pieces of butcher block and we have one corner. We’re using a butt joint at the corner, the simpler of the two joints.

If your kitchen is U-shaped or has many angles,  consider making a template from thin strips of straight cardboard or 1/8-inch paneling for each cabinet run. Templates help you plan seams and trim the countertop to fit against an uneven wall. 

1. Measure, cut and set pieces over the front of the cabinets aligned evenly with the front edge.
2. Cut pieces to mark the back as well. 
3. Cut pieces to the depth of the countertop and set them perpendicular to the front edges.
4. Hot glue the template pieces together.
5. Lay the templates on your butcher block to mark your cuts.

We’re working with a new undermount farmhouse sink that’s already in place. If you’re installing a different type of sink, your steps will vary. Follow the sink manufacturer’s instructions.

For our project, we mark the center of the sink on the wall and the front of the sink and transfer the locations of the basin interior walls to the apron front using a framing square.

Cut the slabs to size one at a time and check the fit after each cut. These countertops have an eased or rounded edge. We need to trim it off at the joints to create edges for tight seams. Once we assemble the countertops, we’ll recreate the edges as necessary.

Starting with the corner piece, mark the length on the butcher block and apply painter’s tape at the cut mark to prevent the wood from chipping. Draw a straight cut line on the tape. Measure the distance from the circular saw shoe to the side of the blade and use the measurement to secure a saw guide in place for a straight, accurate cut on the excess side of the butcher block.

Set the corner piece in place, make sure the front edge is aligned according to your plan and clamp the piece to the cabinets. Then measure and cut the next piece and set it on the cabinets and over the sink. Line up the front edge and keep the piece tight against the corner piece.

At the corner, mark where pieces come together as a reference for joining the pieces. Once you’ve got a good fit with all the pieces, remove them from cabinets and smooth any rough edges with fine-grit sandpaper. Use a sander or router to recreate the eased factory edge you removed, but don’t sand away the corner reference mark.

If your butcher block requires specific fasteners to join the pieces, use those. Otherwise, there are two common methods:

• Pocket Holes and Screws: A pocket hole jig creates angled pocket holes to secure the pieces together with hidden pocket hole screws. Plan the screw holes so the screws drive into the piece with the cross grain and drill the holes about every 6 inches.
• Miter Bolts: Miter bolts fit into channels you cut into the butcher block pieces. As you tighten them, they pull the pieces together.

We’re using miter bolts. Set the butcher block pieces topside down and line up the corner reference mark. Use a miter bolt to trace cut marks across the seam for the bolt channels. Install a 1/2-inch straight-cut bit on a router and set it to a 1/2 inch depth. With the router at high speed, cut the bolt channels on each piece. Cut a wider area for the head of each miter bolt so you can turn it with a wrench.

You need to apply sealer within 48 hours of removing the butcher block from the packaging. There are various sealants available, but since this countertop is going to be exposed to water with an undermount sink, we’re using waterproof tung oil. Follow the butcher block instructions on conditioning and sealing the wood at installation and as part of regular maintenance. 

Wipe down the pieces with tack cloth and apply the sealer according to the product instructions. Coat the top, bottom and edges of each piece. Allow the sealer to dry, apply a second coat and let it dry according to the instructions.

Piece the countertop together and get the cabinets ready to support the countertop. You have a couple of options:

• Countertop Brackets: You can install countertop brackets with elongated holes on the cabinets to allow the wood to expand and contract.
• Cabinet Corner Braces: Cabinet corner braces come preinstalled on some cabinets, but you might need to enlarge the mounting holes to allow for expansion and contraction.

Since we have an undermount farmhouse sink, we’re installing a bead of silicone to the top of the sink.  Set the countertop in place. Make sure the miter bolt channels line up and then tighten the bolts. 

Check that the front edge of the countertop lines up correctly with the cabinets. Then clamp the countertop in place and use screws and washers to secure it to the elongated holes in the brackets or braces, as specified by the countertop manufacturer. Use a hole saw to bore holes for the faucet and accessories and seal the exposed wood.

For a butcher block backsplash, apply construction adhesive or silicone to each piece and set it in place. Use weights or 2-by-4 boards extended from the upper cabinets to hold the pieces in place while the adhesive cures. 

As an alternative, consider a traditional tile backsplash. See our guide to installing a backsplash for instructions.

Seal the backsplash and apply additional sealer to the countertop according to the manufacturer’s instructions. After the sealer is cured, apply silicone caulk where the backsplash meets the walls and the countertop, where the countertop meets the sink, and, for a farmhouse sink, around the front edge of the sink. Finish the beads with a smoothing tool.

The final step is reconnecting the plumbing, if necessary. Our guides to installing a kitchen faucet and installing a kitchen sink give you step-by-step instructions for connecting the water supply to the faucet, installing the sink strainer and more, but always follow the instructions for your faucet and sink. If you need to assemble the drain pipe, take a look at our tips for installing PVC pipe and fittings. Run the water to check for leaks at all connections. Apply moisture barrier tape to the underside of the countertop above the dishwasher. Reinstall your appliances if necessary.