How to Install Drip Irrigation

In most cases, you connect a drip irrigation system to an outdoor hose faucet, but first there are several components you must attach to the hose faucet in a specific order.

1. Install an optional automatic timer to supply a consistent amount of water and prevent overwatering.
2. Connect a backflow preventer or anti-siphon device to keep contaminants out of the water supply.
3. Install a pressure regulator to reduce the water pressure to a level suitable for the system.
4. Add a filter to keep dirt and debris from clogging the emitters.
5. Connect the irrigation hose adapter.

Connect the 1/2-inch distribution line to the hose faucet assembly and run it through the garden.

• Depending on your layout, you might want to dig a shallow trench for the line.
• Keep the line as straight as possible for efficient water flow.
• If you need to make turns, avoid kinks in the tubing that restrict water flow.
• Push stakes into the ground every few feet to keep the water line in place.

Drip irrigation tees and elbow fittings can be helpful when you need to change the direction of the tubing.

Depending on the garden layout, you might need to install 1/4-inch emitter tubing that branches from the main supply line.

1. Determine the locations of your emitters.
2. Use a drip irrigation punch tool to create holes in the top of the main line at the emitter locations.
3. Cut the emitter lines to length and connect them to the main line.

Place emitters near the base of each plant but don’t let them touch the plant stems.

• If installing emitters on the main line, use a drip irrigation punch tool to create holes on top of the tubing and insert the emitters.
• If installing emitters on branch lines, connect them to the open ends of the tubing, adding tubing support stakes as necessary.
• Connect drippers to deliver 0.5 gallons per hour (GPH) to small plants and flowers.
• Connect sprayers to deliver 1 to 2 GPH to fruits, vegetables, flower beds and ground cover.
• Connect bubblers to deliver 4 GPH to large shrubs and trees.

Many types of emitters are adjustable so you can select the flow rate you need for your plants. Note that emitter types and flow rates might differ based on your system, plants and soil type. For example:

• Loose, sandy soil requires high flow rates and close emitter spacing.
• Clay soil holds water and needs a lower flow rate and more spacing.
• Loamy soil requires mid-range flow rates and spacing.

Before operating the system, flush the lines to remove dirt and debris.

1. Make sure the supply lines and branch lines are uncapped.
2. Turn the water on and flush the system for a minute or two.
3. Turn the water off, then cap the open ends of the tubing.

Test the irrigation system to check for leaks and water distribution.

1. Make sure all the tubing is capped.
2. Turn on your water source slowly.
3. Walk down the lines, checking for leaks, clogs, or uneven flow.
4. Adjust the tubing and emitters if necessary to direct the water correctly.
5. If the emitters have variable flow rates or spray patterns, adjust them as necessary.

A layer of mulch protects the tubing from ultra-violet rays that can degrade the plastic and hides the water lines. If you don’t have mulch in your garden already, spreading mulch is an effective way to reduce evaporation and weed growth.

1. Apply 1 to 2 inches of fine mulch or 3 to 4 inches of coarse mulch evenly over the bed and supply lines.
2. Clear the mulch away from the system emitters.
3. Pull the mulch back a few inches from plant stems as well as shrubs and tree trunks.