Why Japanese Maples Work in Pots
Japanese maples naturally stay compact and have shallow, fibrous root systems, which makes them container friendly. If you’re tight on yard space (or don’t have a yard at all), they give you the charm of a small ornamental tree without the commitment of planting it in the ground. A potted tree gives you plenty of flexibility for your porch décor too. If the layout changes you can move your tree as needed.
Choosing a Japanese Maple for a Container
- Chose a compact cultivar that tops out under ten feet or less. Pay attention to the plant tag or ask in the garden center for details on the specific plant you’re interested in. Its tag should tell you how large it will grow and other important info. Different varieties needs might vary.
- One of the best qualities of this type of tree is its pretty colors ranging from red to purple to bronze. There’s a myth that the richer the color the more sunlight it needs, but whether it's full sun or partial shade depends on factors like the variety of Japanese maple and what planting zone you live in.
- Know your climate. Japanese maples generally thrive in USDA zones 5–8 but again, check your plant tag to ID any quirks unique to the variety you have your eye on.
Planting Tips for a Japanese Maple
- Container size: Choose a pot only a bit bigger than the root ball (no more than twice the volume). Too much soil can hold excess water, which leads to root rot. Appropriate drainage holes are a must. If the container is placed directly on a porch or deck make sure the holes aren’t being blocked.
- Soil: Use a high-quality, fast-draining potting mix and not soil from your backyard. Skip soils with strong slow-release fertilizers in favor of a soil with high air content. When it’s time to fertilize, do it in late spring or early summer.
- Planting depth: Set your maple at the same level it was in its nursery pot and avoid burying the trunk too deeply in the soil.
Caring for Your Japanese Maple
- Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. Container-grown trees dry out faster, especially in summer. To test, stick your finger into the soil, if you feel moisture hold off on watering.
- Fertilizing: Use a diluted, water-soluble fertilizer in spring as new growth starts. Less is more.
- Repotting: Every 2–3 years in early spring, remove the tree from the pot and refresh the soil and trim away woody roots to encourage healthy, fibrous ones. If the roots are touching the sides of the pot, it might be time to size up. You’ll also want to prune the rest of the tree at the same time to shape and remove dead branches. Use sharp, clean pruning shears.
- Pruning: Light pruning in midsummer helps maintain shape and can be used to remove new dead branches.
Overwintering a Japanese Maple
Because the roots in a pot don’t have the insulation of the ground, they’re more vulnerable to cold. Once the leaves drop:
- Move the pot into a protected, unheated spot like a garage or shed. The key is to keep the roots cold enough to stay dormant, but not so cold that they freeze.
- Don’t worry about the tree getting sun while it’s dormant.
- Check the soil occasionally to ensure that it hasn’t dried out.
Get Growing Your Own
A Japanese maple in a pot is basically the houseplant-lover’s tree: gorgeous, manageable and colorful. With the right care, it can be the centerpiece of your outdoor space whether you have a small patio, deck or a spacious backyard.
Potted Japanese Maple FAQs
How Fast Do Japanese Maples Grow?
Most grow about 6–12 inches a year. Some vigorous varieties may stretch closer to 18 inches in ideal conditions, but they’re generally considered slow growers.
Can They Handle Full Sun?
Depends on the cultivar and your climate. Red and green-leaved upright types often do fine in full sun (with enough water), while lace-leaf types may scorch if afternoons get blazing hot.
Will the Leaves Stay Colorful in Shade?
Not really, deep shade tends to mute reds and purples. For vibrant color, give your maple plenty of morning sun with a little afternoon protection.