Tools and Materials

Tools

Materials

Note

Items may be Special Order in some stores. Product costs, availability and item numbers may vary online or by market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market for lumber species and sizes.

DIY Deck Railing Instructions

For this project, you'll create a plan for the railing and then build the panels. Next, you'll build brackets for the overhead structure. Then you'll install the posts, railing, panels and overhead assembly. The last step will cover how to apply the finish.

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Tip

For more deck railing ideas, take a look at how to Add Front Porch Character and Curb Appeal.

Plan Your Custom Railing

With your tape measure, determine the exact width and depth of your porch. Measure the dimensions and slope of the stairs. A few fractions of an inch can throw off your design, so take precise measurements on each side where you'll install the railing and overhead structure.

Caution

Call 811 to check for buried utility pipes and cables where you'll sink the posts next to your porch. Make sure the overhead structure won't come within 10 feet of any power lines.

Tip

Different areas will require posts to be buried to different depths, especially in climates where the ground freezes during the winter. Check your local municipality or building code for the types of footings recommended in your area. Call 811 to have a professional mark the locations of buried utility lines. Pour concrete footings with post anchors to meet these requirements.

A close-up shot of the panels on the railing.

Transfer your measurements to graph paper and lay out the posts, panels and balusters (the deck's legs). For the railing shown, allow a 14-inch width for each panel assembly plus 1-1/2-inch spaces on each side of the panels, 1-1/2-inch widths for both individual balusters and spaces between them (10-1/2 inches for three balusters and four spaces) and 5-1/2 inches for the width of the square posts.

If a combination of panels, balusters and posts doesn’t fit one of the porch measurements exactly, tweak the design to add or subtract a few inches using one of the following methods.

Increase the number of balusters from three to four in a group to add an extra 3 inches between panels.
Reduce or remove the spacing between posts and the balusters nearest to them.
Adjust the width of the panels by cutting the horizontal slats up to 2 inches shorter or longer.

Add up the quantity of wooden parts you'll need for the panels, balusters, posts and railings, referring to the list above. Then divide the lumber by the number of pieces each board can yield, allowing room for saw cuts and trimming the ends square.

Tip

Many lumber sizes come in more than one length, usually from 8 feet and 12 feet long. Arrange the spacing between your posts and plan cut lists to avoid wasting wood. Check out our Lumber Buying Guide for more tips on shopping for lumber.

Build the Porch Railing Panel Assemblies

To build the panels as shown, refer to our Porch Railing Project Diagram: Railing Inner Panel and cut to length the long narrow slats (A), short narrow slats (B), wide center slats (C), pairs of upper (D) and lower (E) mounting strips and the two pairs of wide balusters (F).

Tip

For a rainy day or winter project, you can make, stain or paint these panels ahead of time in the comfort of your garage or workshop and install them later. You can do the same for the overhead brackets described below.

Measure and mark the narrow slat (A, B) locations on the inside faces of two wide balusters (F). Glue and nail through the wide center slat (C) into the wide balusters. Repeat this step for the narrow slats above and below the wide slat.

Tip

Use a carpenters square to ensure the horizontal slats are square with the wide balusters. Then use a 1-1/2-inch-wide spacer to locate the next and subsequent slats.

Assemble the Overhead Post Brackets

From 4-by-4 lumber, cut the horizontal beam (G) and vertical mounting block (H). Then cut a piece 16-5/8 inches long for the diagonal support (I).

Your circular saw likely can't cut through more than 2-1/2 inches of the 3-1/2-inch actual thickness of a 4-by-4 post in one pass. One solution is to use a circular saw to start the cut. Then finish it using a hand saw. Use sandpaper to smooth the wood.

Tip

Want a circular saw upgrade for this project? Check out our Circular Saw Buying Guide.

Use the Porch Railing Project Diagram and cut a 12-degree bevel on one end of each horizontal beam (G). On each vertical mounting block (H), cut a 45-degree chamfer on the bottom end as shown. Then cut 45-degree bevels on both ends of each diagonal support (I).

Now is a good time to pre-drill lag-screw pilot holes and counterbores where needed to mount those brackets that will hang over the porch. To avoid bumping into the diagonal support while driving the screws on those brackets, drill the upper pilot holes at slight angles.

Install the Railing

Determine how deep you'll need to set the 6-by-6 posts (J) for your local climate and building codes. Depending on the height of your porch and the local frost line, you may need concrete footings that extend beneath the bottom of the posts. Ask a Lowe's associate for tips on ways to set posts for your area. Dig the concrete footing holes as needed and set the posts, checking for plumb on two adjoining faces. Brace the posts until the concrete hardens using scrap wood supports and stakes. Then trim the posts flush with each other at the correct height.

Cut two pairs of lower (L) and upper (M) rails and one top handrail (N) for each space between the posts and then drive angled screws through the outside rails into the posts. Inset the rails to center the panels and balusters on the edges of the posts.

Tip

Driving screws at an angle from the side of a board so that they come out through the end is challenging. Reduce the chance of splitting the wood by drilling into the end grain at an 18-degree angle so the hole comes out the side of the wood. Start your screws before positioning the ends of the horizontal boards against the posts.

Adding the Overhead Structure

Finishing Touches

Mount posts beside the bottom step, leaving an extra 6 inches to be beveled later. On a face of the post, mark what will be the lower edge of the bevel. It should be as high off the ground as the distance from the porch to the top edge of the upper rails (M). Clamp a straight edge from this mark to the top edge of an upper rail and mark the bevel. Use a circular saw to start the bevel cut and finish it with a hand saw.

How to Build a Front Porch Railing