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Barn-Style Sliding Door

Brought to you by Lowe's Creative Ideas

A sliding partition with the casual look of a barn door provides a novel way to both separate and connect two rooms.

Barn-style sliding interior door

Project Overview

Skill Level

Intermediate

Estimated Time

1 weekend

Estimated Cost

$$$$$$

Tools & Materials

Tools

  • Miter saw
  • Cordless drill and driver bits
  • Jigsaw
  • Combination square
  • Tape measure
  • Pocket-hole jig
  • Random-orbit sander; 120-grit and 180-grit discs
  • 180-grit sandpaper
  • Level
  • Fine-grit sanding sponge
  • Painter’s tape
  • Paintbrush and rags

Materials

  • See project diagrams for lumber required
  • 1-1/4-in drywall screws
  • 1-1/4-in coarse-thread pocket-hole screws
  • Stanley-National 2.01-in door roller, #48217
  • 3 - Stanley-National door-top brackets, #48202
  • Stanley-National 8-ft x 2.4-in x 1.88-in steel track, #48208
  • Valspar Interior latex paint, Mark Twain House Yellow, #3011-3

Items may be Special Order in some stores. Product costs, availability, and item numbers may vary online or by market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market for lumber species and sizes.

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Instructions

This door is easy to build to fit your opening. Once you know how big the door needs to be, adjust the length of the stiles and the top/bottom rails to the desired lengths. The crossbar is cut to fit the actual door. The car siding is designed to have one board centered in the door panel and then fit the boards toward each side, all cut to fit the door as it is built.

Make a Frame

Step 1

Cut the stiles (A) and top/bottom rails (B) to size (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram). Sand the parts with 120-grit and 180-grit sandpaper. (A random-orbit sander makes quick work of this.)

Step 2

Locate and drill the pocket holes for the top and bottom rail

At the end of the top/bottom rails, drill pocket holes to receive the pocket-hole screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 1) using a pocket-hole jig.

Good to Know

Drill pocket holes to leave space for the door hardware. On the top rail, drill two closely spaced holes near the bottom edge of the board. On the bottom rail, drill two holes about 1 inch from both the top and bottom edge of the board.

Step 3

Apply glue and drive pocket-hole screws to make the frame.

Align the top/bottom rails (B) with the ends of the stiles (A) (Project Diagram, Drawing 1). Add glue and drive the pocket-hole screws to make the frame.

Step 4

Mark the length of the cross bar.

Draw a centered line down the board for the crossbar (C). Slip it under the frame and align the mark with the inside corner of the frame. At both ends, trace the shape of the frame on the crossbar.

Step 5

Drill a pocket hole for attaching the crossbar in the frame.

Clamp a pocket-hole jig to the stile near the corner and drill a pocket hole on the back face of the frame. Repeat on the diagonally opposite end.

Step 6

Secure the cross bar in the frame with pocket hole screws.

Using a jigsaw, cut the crossbar and sand the edges smooth. The bar does not have to be a perfect fit -- ease the edges where it meets the frame to create a rustic look that helps hide imperfections in the jigsaw cut. Glue and screw the crossbar to the stiles.

Add the Siding

Step 1

Cut two 1 x 2 boards to match the height of the door for the edging (D). Glue the edging to the sides of the door with the outside edge flush with the outside edge of the frame stiles (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). The edging creates a smooth edge along the door and conceals the edges of the siding boards.

Step 2

Cut car-siding boards to match the height of the door for the siding (E), and the siding filler strips (F). Measure the distance between the edging and subtract 1/4 inch from the overall width of the siding, this will allow the siding to install easier.

Step 3

To center the siding board pattern in the door opening (Project Diagram, Drawing 2) combine the widths of the five siding boards and mark equal amounts to be trimmed from the two siding filler strips (F) (Project Diagram, Drawing 2).

Step 4

Secure the siding between the edging, secure with screws and glue.

Assemble the siding boards between the edging and secure them to the frame with 1-1/4-inch drywall screws.

Step 5

Draw a line across the door to help locate and drive the screws.

Use a scrap and mark a diagonal across the door going in the same angle direction as the crossbar. Use the line to position screws and drive to secure the siding boards to the crossbar.

Mount the Hardware

Step 1

Painter’s tape protects the finish while you cut the hardware notch.

Tape around the area where you’ll notch the top of the door to receive the hardware. Mark out and cut the notches with a jigsaw (Project Diagram, Drawing 3).

Step 2

Position the roller bracket on the door, use the holes in the hanger to locate and drill holes for the bolts. Attach the hardware pushing the head of the bolts from the backside, and use the nuts and washers on the front. The rounded heads of the bolts protrude less on the backside preventing them from scraping the wall.

Step 3

Remove the hardware and sand any rough edges. If you are going to paint, apply a stain blocking primer prior to applying paint to seal any of the knots in the pine. Finish with the paint of your choice (Mark Twain House Yellow, #3011-3 shown).