How to Remove a Stripped or Broken Screw

If you forget the pilot hole or drive a screw too quickly, a power screwdriver can spin fast enough to strip away the cross shape in a Phillips head screw. Once that’s gone, the screw can’t be driven deeper or backed out. You'll want to know how to get a stripped screw out for your project.

If the screw head stands above the wood surface, clamp a pair of locking pliers to the screw as close as possible to the wood surface and gently turn it counterclockwise. Work slowly to avoid snapping off the head.

Locking grip pliers sometimes lose their grip, so protect the wood surface underneath by cutting half the width of a small piece of cardboard and sliding the notched halves around the screw. That way, a slip doesn’t turn into a scratch.

For #12 or larger screws where the stripped screw head rests flush with the wood (and you don’t want to risk damage to your project), turn to a screw extractor for help. First, drill a 1/8-inch deep hole in the center of the screw head to accept the largest screw extractor that'll fit the screw head.

Place the extractor tip in the starter hole you drilled. Slowly spin the stripped screw remover counterclockwise and press down until you feel the extractor threads bite into the screw head. Turn the extractor slowly to back the screw out of the wood enough to grip it with the locking pliers and finish removing.

When the head twists off a screw that’s been driven in place, you have a bigger problem. If you can leave the broken screw in place, such as when securing a deck board, simply drill a pilot hole and drive a second screw about 1/4 inch from the first one. 

If you can’t move the screw location by even 1/4 inch, such as when you’re installing a hinge, you’ll need to remove the broken fastener and patch any damage you create. 

To determine how to remove a broken screw, review these three common scenarios: 

1.  If the head snaps off while part of the screw shank still extends past the wood surface, grasp the screw shank with locking pliers. They’ll give you enough grip to slowly turn the screw counterclockwise until it’s free. 
2. If the screw breaks at the wood surface, use the tip of a utility knife with a sharp blade to cut away some of the wood around the screw shank. Remove just enough wood for locking pliers to gain the extra grip you need on the shank to back out the screw. Then drill a 1/2-inch-diameter hole centered on the screw hole. Fill that hole with a dowel (if the wood won’t show). If you need a seamless match, use the steps below to cut a wood plug from matching stock. If appearance matters and the screw is longer than 1 inch, use a dowel capped with a plug to give the replacement screw plenty of material to grip. 
3. If the screw breaks off more than 1/8 inch below the surface and you definitely need the screw in that location, use a 1/2-inch bit to widen the screw hole down to the broken end of the screw. Use the point of a nail and tap lightly with a hammer to make five or six starter holes around the screw. Then use a 3/32-inch or 7/64-inch drill bit to bore holes immediately beside the broken screw on all sides. Drill at least as deep as the screw length. Use an awl or nail punch to wiggle the screw loose enough to grip with needle-nose pliers and pull free. Now you can clean up the ragged holes with a 1/2-inch drill bit and fill the new hole with a dowel or plug (or both if the screw is long).