Tools and Materials

Tools

Materials

1 Top Choice 2-in x 6-in x 8-ft (Actual: 1.5-in x 5.5-in x 8-ft) #2 prime treated lumber
1 Top Choice 2-in x 6-in x 12-ft (Actual: 1.5-in x 5.5-in x 12-ft) #2 prime treated lumber
2 Top Choice 2-in x 4-in x 12-ft (Actual: 1.5-in x 3.5-in x 12-ft) #2 prime treated lumber
1 Top Choice 2-in x 4-in x 8-ft (Actual: 1.5-in x 3.5-in x 8-ft) #2 prime treated lumber
3 - 2-in x 2-in x 8-ft (Actual: 1.5-in x 1.5-in x 8-ft) #1 treated lumber
10 - Top Choice 1-in x 6-in x 12-ft (Actual: 0.75-in x 5.5-in x 12-ft) appearance-grade treated board
2 - Top Choice 1-in x 4-in x 10-ft (Actual: 0.75-in x 3.5-in x 10-ft) appearance-grade treated board
2 - 1-in x 2-in x 8-ft (Actual: 0.75-in x 1.5-in x 8-ft) treated board
Mesh hardware cloth
1 - 5-1/2-in zinc utility pull
1 - #8 x 1-1/4-in PGP star drive green screw
1 - #8 x 1-5/8-in PGP star drive green screw
1 - #8 x 2-in PGP star drive green screw
1 - #8 x 2-1/2-in PGP star drive green screw
Wood glue
Exterior Stain (Pictured: Cabot solid exterior stain, Thicket)

Note

Items may be Special Order in some stores. Product costs, availability, and item numbers may vary online or by market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market for lumber species and sizes.

Instructions

Before you start, know pressure-treated lumber has a higher moisture content than ordinary framing and trim lumber. As the lumber dries, it may twist or cup slightly, making project assembly difficult. To prevent problems, cut the parts and assemble the project as soon as possible after purchasing the lumber. This way the screws and glue and other parts of the assembly will help restrict any wood movement.

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Build the top and bottom assemblies

Arrange four runners and four stretchers into two rectangular frames, apply glue to the stretcher ends, and drive 2-1/2-in deck screws through the runners into the stretchers. Position an additional stretcher between the runners where shown in the drawings, drill countersunk holes through the runners, and drive the screws. From a 2 × 2, cut the drawer stop (C) to length. Position it between the end and intermediate stretcher of the top assembly frame where dimensioned, drill countersunk holes in the stretchers, and drive 2-1/2-in deck screws.

From 1 × 6s, cut the wide slats (D) to equal lengths. From 1 × 2s, cut the narrow slats (E) to length. Drill countersunk holes 3/4-in from the ends of each slat. Glue and screw five wide slats and all the narrow slats to the top frame and eight wide slats to the bottom frame, leaving spaces between the slats, as indicated. Set the remaining four wide slats aside for the shelf.

Good to Know

Before fastening the slats to the frames, check the frames for square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner. When the diagonal dimensions are equal, the frames are square. If the diagonal dimensions are not equal, squeeze the frame across the longer diagonal. Recheck the diagonal measurements as you fasten the first three slats to each frame. These slats lock the frame into square and you can apply the remaining slats without rechecking the diagonal measurements.

Move on to the back assembly and legs

Position the rear runners (H) on the mesh. Align the top edges of the top front and rear runners and the bottom edges of the bottom front and rear runners, and align the ends of the rear runners with the inside faces of the stretchers (G). Drill 3/16-in countersunk holes through the rear runners. Drive 1-1/4-in deck screws through the rear runners and into the front runners, sandwiching the mesh panel between them.

Assemble the bench

Place the top and bottom assemblies, front edges down, on a flat surface and about 23 inches apart. Place the back assembly, front face down, on the back edges of the top and bottom assemblies. Position the top assembly rear top edge against the bottom edge of the lower front runner (F), and center the back assembly side to side on the top assembly (Exploded View drawing). The back assembly overhangs the ends of the top assembly 3/4-in at each side. Clamp the back assembly to the top assembly. Position the bottom assembly bottom edge 4-1/8-in from the rear leg bottom ends, center it side to side on the back assembly, and clamp it in place. Drill 3/16-in countersunk holes through the rear legs and drive 2-1/2-in deck screws through the legs into the rear runners of the top and bottom assemblies.

Carefully flip the top/bottom/back assembly onto the back. Position the front legs (K) on the front edges of the top and bottom assemblies with the outside edges of the legs protruding 3/4-in beyond the ends of the top and bottom assemblies. Align the leg top ends and the top faces of the top assembly slats and clamp the front legs to the top assembly. Position the bottom assembly bottom edge 4-1/8-in from the front leg bottom ends and clamp the legs to the bottom assembly. Drill countersunk holes through the top and bottom assemblies (A) from the inside, and drive 2-1/2-in deck screws through the assemblies into the legs. (Carefully avoid driving screws through fronts of the legs.) Stand the bench upright.

Make the shelf

Drill countersunk holes 3/4-in from the ends of each vertical slat (O). Apply glue to the slats and arrange them on the remaining runner (M) as shown. With the slat bottom ends and the runner bottom face flush, drive 1-5/8-in deck screws through the slats and into the runner. Apply glue to the slats and clamp the slat/runner assembly to the runner/stretcher frame. Drive 1-5/8-in deck screws through the slats into the frame runner. To later fasten the runner to the bottom assembly, drill 3/16-in holes to the bottom of the runner.

Mark lines on the back leg (J) and front leg (K), 14-1/2-in up from the top surface of the bottom frame (Exploded View drawing). Slide the shelf assembly into the bench, and with the edge of the shelf 3/4-in back from the outside edges of the legs, align the top surface of the shelf with the marked lines. Clamp the shelf in place. Drill countersunk holes through the legs, and drive 2-1/2-in deck screws through the legs into the shelf frame members. Drive the screw heads about 1/8-in below the surface to make room for wood filler.

Apply the Trim

Apply glue to the apron backs and clamp them in place (Exploded View drawing). The trim top edges are flush with the top surfaces of the assemblies to which they are fastened. Drill 3/16-in countersunk holes through the inside faces of the top and bottom assemblies -- without drilling through the outside faces of the aprons -- and the shelf and into the apron parts (P,Q,R,S); fasten the trim in place with 1-5/8-in deck screws.

Build the bin

Lay the back slats (W) on a flat surface with the edges together and the ends flush. Apply glue to the back horizontal cleats (Y) and position them on the slats, 3/4-in from the slat edges with the upper cleat 1-1/4-in down from the slat top ends and the lower cleat 3/4-in up from the slat bottom ends. Clamp the cleats in place. Drill countersunk holes through the cleats, and drive 2-in deck screws through the cleats into the slats. Apply glue to the back vertical cleats (Z) and position them between the horizontal cleats. Drill countersunk holes through the cleats, and drive 2-in deck screws through the cleats and into the slats.

Lay one set of side slats (U) on a flat surface with the edges together and the ends flush. Apply glue to the bin front and back assembly cleats and position them on the side slats with the top end of the front cleat and the top edge of the upper back horizontal cleat flush with the top edge of the upper side slat. Clamp the front and back assemblies to the side slats. Drill countersunk holes through the cleats, and drive 2-in deck screws through the cleats into the slats. Repeat to attach the other side.

Starting at the front, slip a bottom slat (V) between the bottom side slats (U). With the bottom face of the bottom slat flush with the bottom edges of the side slats, drill countersunk holes through the side slats. Then, to prevent the bottom slat from splitting when driving the screws, drill 1/8-in pilot holes into the bottom slat. Now drive 2-in deck screws through the side slats into the bottom slat. Repeat with the remaining bottom slats. The rear bottom slat should overlap the lower back horizontal cleat (Y) by about 1/4-in.

Potting-Bench Perfection