Tools and Materials

Tools

Materials

Note

Items may be Special Order in some stores. Product costs, availability, and item numbers may vary online or by market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market for lumber species and sizes.

Building the Kitchen

Although this outdoor kitchen idea doesn’t require extensive woodworking skills, the dimensions of the parts and size of the assembly will require assistance from a helper. Because of the weight of the finished project, it should be assembled on a flat surface where you’ll use it.

Shop Grills & Outdoor Cooking Shop Patio Furniture Shop Tools

Pour a Concrete Countertop

On the top edges of each mold side and end, drill pilot holes from edge to edge about 12 inches apart. Carefully screw the sides and ends to the base to form the mold (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Drawing 16). Then cover the top edge with painter’s tape to protect the screw heads from filling with concrete.

Good to Know

Screws can quickly split narrow strips of particleboard, even with pilot holes. Drive screws slowly and stop as soon as the sides and ends are snug against the base.

Cut a 14-1/4-inch-square piece of 1-1/2-inch-thick rigid foam—the size of the sink opening in the countertop. Use construction adhesive or carpet tape to fasten the foam square to the mold (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Drawing 16). Caulk lightly around the edges to keep concrete from seeping under the foam.

Good to Know

If you select a different sink from the one shown, vary the size of the foam block to suit the opening size you’ll need.

Press the concrete into the mold, taking care to work it into the corners and around the foam block. When the concrete is about 1/2-inch thick, level it off across the mold and lay the two 55-inch bars directly on the concrete about 1 inch from the mold edges (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Drawing 16). Then evenly space the two 30-inch bars between the 55-inch bars. Lay the four 22-inch bars perpendicular to the others.

Good to Know

The dense concrete will support the rebar, but avoid pushing hard enough to force the rebar to the bottom of the mold.

Continue adding concrete to cover the rebar and bring the concrete surface flush with the mold edges and top of the foam block. Lightly tap on the edges of the mold for several minutes to help the concrete settle and work out any air bubbles. Check that the top surface is smooth and level. Then lightly cover the concrete with a plastic sheet to keep the concrete from curing too quickly. Allow the concrete to remain in the mold for at least four days.

Good to Know

If you make this countertop at a time of year when it’s cold and dry outdoors, the dry air can wick away moisture too quickly. During warm, humid times of the year, the plastic cover may not be necessary.

Build the Legs

Cut the tall posts (A), short posts (B), bottom stretchers (C), center stretchers (D), top arms (E), bar supports (F), center top arms (G), mid-size post (H) and top arm (I) to length for the four leg assemblies (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Cutting List). Separate the parts into groups for each assembly.

Good to Know

Apply the stain or finish of your choice to the parts before assembly. If necessary, you can touch up the stain on any parts that need to be fine-tuned to fit.

For the first leg, lay a tall post (A) parallel to a short post (B) with the bottom ends flush and the inside faces 15-3/4 inches apart (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Drawing 1). Measure 2-1/2 inches up from the bottoms of the posts and screw a bottom stretcher (C) in place. Then attach the center stretcher (D) where shown, followed by the top arm (E) and bar supports (F) to complete Leg Assembly 1.

Good to Know

Check each assembly for square as you work.

For Leg Assembly 2, lay a tall post (A) parallel with a short post (B) with the bottom ends flush and the inside faces 15-3/4 inches apart (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Drawing 2). Measure 2-1/2 inches up from the bottoms of the posts and screw a bottom stretcher (C) in place followed by a center stretcher (D). Then install a bar support (F) and center top arm (G). Flip the assembly upside down and add a second bottom stretcher, center stretcher and center top arm.

Join the Legs with Stretchers

Stand Leg Assembly 1 and Leg Assembly 4 upright and screw the back base stretcher (J) (the one beneath the bar), the back counter stretcher (K) and the back bar stretcher (L) to leave 1-1/2-inch overhangs on each stretcher at both ends. Then screw Leg Assembly 2 and Leg Assembly 3 to the back stretchers as shown (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Drawing 5 and Drawing 6).

Good to Know

Check each leg assembly to make sure it is square with each stretcher in both the front and back.

Lay the Slatted Surfaces

Double-check all measurements for the lower shelf slats (Q, R, S) and cut the parts to length (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Drawing 8). Touch up the stain as needed. Lay the slats in position and mark the locations of the mounting screw holes. Drill 1/8-inch countersunk pilot holes, reposition the slats spaced evenly apart and drive 2-1/2-inch stainless-steel screws to fasten the slats in place.

Good to Know

Use a straightedge or scrap of wood as a guide to lay out screw hole locations for straight lines of screws. Then use 7/8-inch and 1-inch spacers to help keep the slats parallel.

Cut the long and short counter slats (T, U) to length and touch up the stain as needed. Temporarily remove the front bar stretcher (L) and position the slats on the tops of Leg Assemblies 3 and 4 (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Drawing 9). Mark the screw hole locations using a straightedge guide. Drill 1/8-inch countersunk pilot holes, reposition the slats spaced evenly apart and drive 2-1/2-inch stainless-steel screws to fasten the slats to the leg assemblies.

Slats screwed to the top arms of the outdoor kitchen canopy.

Cut the canopy end caps (Y) and canopy slats (Z, AA, BB) to length (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Drawing 11). Position the canopy slats on the top arms and mark the mounting screw locations. Drill 1/8-inch countersunk pilot holes, space the slats evenly apart and drive 2-1/2-inch stainless-steel screws to fasten the slats in place. Screw through the top arms (E, I) to hold the slat ends in position. Then screw the canopy end caps to the canopy stretchers (M).

Cut the end slats (DD) to length and drill countersunk pilot holes on both ends of each slat. Evenly space the end slats between the bottom stretcher (C) and center stretcher (D) and screw them in place (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Drawing 12). Repeat for the opposite side. Measure between the outside faces of the end slats and cut the front counter slats (CC) to length. Screw the front counter slats to the leg assemblies. Repeat to cut and screw on the bar front slats (EE) (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Drawing 15).

Add a Wine Glass Rack and Sink

Cut the glass rack sides (FF) to length. Measure the distance between the outside faces of the tall posts (A), add twice the thickness of the glass rack sides and cut the glass rack back (GG) and glass rack front (HH) to length (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Drawing 13). Then cut the glass rack upper long slats (II), glass rack upper short slats (JJ), glass rack lower slats (KK), upper slat support (LL) and lower slat support (MM) to length.

Screw the upper slat support (LL) level to the tall posts (A) with the bottom edge 26-1/2 inches from the top edge of the counter end cap (O) (Outdoor Kitchen Project Diagram, Drawing 13). Then screw the lower slat support (MM) to the upper slat support. Drill slightly offset pilot holes in the lower glass rack slats (KK) and screw each slat to the underside of the lower slat support.

Good to Know

Keep in mind that some parts will need to hold multiple screws from different angles. Adjust the pilot hole locations slightly to keep screws from touching each other.

Attach the faucet to the sink according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you plan to hook the faucet to a garden hose, add the correct adapters to the cold water side of the faucet. (A Lowe’s plumbing associate can help with this.) Then add the drain to the bottom of the sink. Lower the sink into the countertop opening and use the included mounting hardware and silicone caulk to mount the sink to the counter. Attach a garden hose to the sink and add a 5-gallon bucket beneath the drain pipe to catch the waste water.

Good to Know

If you live in a region where it freezes, remove the garden hose and drain any water trapped in the faucet to winterize your outdoor kitchen. Then cover the counter to protect it until spring.