Troubleshoot and Maintain Your Washer and Dryer

Though most machines jiggle occasionally because of an unbalanced load, a machine that shakes, rattles or shuts off during the spin cycle may not be level. Most washing machines are self-leveling and only need a tilt to the front and rear to automatically adjust the legs. If your machine is not one of those, here’s how to level a washing machine:

1. Use a carpenter's level to check whether the machine is level side-to-side and front-to-back. Place the level along all four edges of the appliance to determine which leg or legs need to be adjusted.
2. Working with a partner, slide the washing machine about a foot away from the wall. Be careful not to strain any cords or hoses.
3. Tip the washer and place a block of wood under the corner for support. Use a wrench or pliers to adjust the foot. Typically, turning the foot counterclockwise lowers it, while turning it clockwise raises it.
4. As necessary, remove and reposition the block to other corners of the washer to adjust other feet.
5. After adjusting all feet, remove the block entirely and check to see if the washer is level. Run a test load of laundry. If the washer stays in place, the machine is now level. Once the load is finished and the washer has been leveled, slide the washer back into position.

The rubber hoses that supply hot and cold water to your washer can become brittle over time, potentially leading to flooding. Avoid coming home to find a flooded laundry room by following a few simple steps:

1. Check your hoses once a year for kinks, cracks, stiffness or brittleness.
2. Replace old hoses with stainless steel-clad hoses, or for a less-expensive alternative, try hoses with mesh-wrapped ends.
3. Keep your washer at least four inches away from the wall so the supply and drain hoses don't become kinked.

If your clothes aren't drying well or there's excess moisture in your laundry room, you probably have a blocked dryer vent.  Here's how to clean a dryer vent:

1. Every three to six months, disconnect the exhaust pipe and remove any lint.
2. Run a flexible dryer vent brush or a vacuum hose through the pipe to remove as much lint as possible.
3. Make sure the outdoor area where the tube vent is free of obstructions.

To prevent odors caused by bacteria:

• Top-Loader: Leave the lid up to help dry it out.

• Front-Loader: Towel-dry the washer drum and rubber gasket after removing wet laundry. Leave the door open until the drum is completely dry.

It's most likely the dispenser is clogged. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, remove the dispenser from the machine. Soak it in warm water – add liquid soap if the clog is dried. You can also use a sponge or cloth to help loosen dried fabric softener. Fill it with water to see if it drains properly. If so, replace it and proceed with your wash. If not, repeat the cleaning. You may need to let it soak for a while.

1. Use the proper setting. Many dryers have a delicate / permanent press cycle to protect lighter fabrics. These settings use less energy since lighter clothes don't need high heat. Save the high heat setting for heavier fabrics, like towels and bedding.
2. Clear the lint filter. Proper airflow will reduce drying time, as well as wear and tear on the dryer and your clothes.
3. Dry lightweight garments first. When drying loads back to back, dry lighter garments first. The residual heat will help heavier loads dry faster later.
4. Don't overload. An overcrowded dryer has little space for clothes to tumble, taking longer to dry and increasing the chance of wrinkling.
5. Don't underload either. Drying one shirt for 30 minutes costs about the same as drying a full load for 30 minutes. Smaller loads can take longer to dry without the tumbling effect of a full load. If you dry small loads on a consistent basis, consider a dryer with an advanced moisture sensor.