How to Epoxy a Garage Floor

Begin by measuring your garage. Multiply the length by the width to determine the square footage and make sure to include any nooks, insets or tall knee walls. Be sure to purchase enough epoxy kits for the space. If you plan to add a primer coat as a vapor barrier, buy an extra kit(s).

Inspect the concrete for cracks or holes and repair them using a concrete crack filler or patch according to the manufacturer’s directions and cure time.

Once the garage is clear, clean and degrease the floor. Use a blower and broom to remove debris, then apply a diluted degreaser solution according to the manufacturer’s specifications. This will usually require pre-wetting the concrete, pouring the solution on the floor and scrubbing with a stiff brush. After scrubbing, rinse the area well and squeegee the water outside. Repeat this entire step for heavy stains.

After the floor is clean, prepare the surface so the epoxy bonds well. For the epoxy to properly stick to the concrete, the surface must be course. This can be done by grinding the surface or chemically etching it with an acid wash. For our project, we chose the etching method because it’s more DIY friendly than grinding.

Mix the etching powder with water in a separate bucket. Be sure to use gloves and protective eyewear. Follow the manufacturer’s mixing instructions and all safety guidelines. Never use the epoxy mixing buckets or stir sticks in your kit (if they’re included) to mix the acid.

Pre-wet the floor with a pressure washer hose, pour the solution in sections and scrub it vigorously into the concrete, keeping the surface damp the whole time. Allow at least fifteen minutes of contact before rinsing thoroughly with a hose or pressure washer. Squeegee the floor and let it dry completely for 24 to 48 hours.

Once the floor is dry, sweep or blow off any remaining dust. Mask all floor edges with painter’s tape, including the garage door line, since most epoxy products are not UV stable and will fade in the sunlight. Any epoxy applied beyond the outside edge of the door line may quickly lighten, leaving a noticeable differentiation.

If you suspect ground moisture, apply two coats of epoxy total. To mix the epoxy, pour the “Part A” resin into the bucket. Then shake the “Part B” hardener and pigment for three minutes before combining it with the resin. Stir the mixture for at least five minutes, scraping the sides and bottom.

Once combined, pour the mixture into a roller tray. Remember that the pot life for most products — the amount of time before an epoxy hardens — is only about 45 minutes, so plan your work accordingly.

Begin by cutting in the edges with a brush around walls posts and corners. Roll the epoxy onto the floor in small sections using an “M” or “W” pattern, working from the back toward the front of the garage and overlapping slightly. If you are applying two coats, skip decorative flakes on the first. Allow the first coat to dry 10 to 36 hours before recoating. For the second coat, repeat the same steps, then distribute decorative flakes evenly by tossing handfuls upward for even coverage as you go.

Let the floor cure undisturbed. It should be ready for foot traffic in about 10 hours and for vehicle traffic in about 36 hours. Remove the painter’s tape while the epoxy is still slightly tacky or after a light set as recommended.

After the cure period, move items back in to the garage. This is also a good time to paint the walls and add additional storage, so the garage stays tidy.