How to Fix a Leaking Pipe

Self-fusing pipe tape forms a compression seal over a leak and can be effective for small leaks in a pipe or at a joint in the pipe. Stretch the tape around the pipe as you wrap the damaged area. Overlap the tape so it bonds to itself and creates a watertight seal. Some pipe wrap is designed for emergency repairs when you don’t have time to turn off the water.

Epoxy repair putty is a two-part compound that you can use for emergency leaking pipe repair. After cleaning the pipe, thoroughly dry the area around the leak and use a piece of sandpaper to score or roughen the area around the leak. Take enough of each of the two components to cover the leak and knead the pieces together. Once you’ve got the compound properly blended, the putty should be a solid color. Press the compound over the leak, forming it around the pipe to overlap the damaged area. Depending on the product, you may need to apply pressure to the putty while it sets. The material begins hardening in just a couple of minutes, so fit it in place and remove any extra material quickly.

A pipe repair wrap, or repair cast, combines repair putty and a pipe wrap to create a durable, temporary patch for a leaking pipe or pipe joint. A kit typically includes epoxy putty, a cast that you wrap around the damaged pipe, water-activated resin to harden the cast and a wrap that covers the cast until the resin sets.

Dry the area around the leak and score it with sandpaper. Mix the putty components together thoroughly and knead the compound until it’s malleable enough to shape. Press the putty firmly over the leak and form it around the pipe. Mix water with the resin compound and saturate the cast wrap with the mixture. Wrap it tightly around the repair area, overlapping the putty. Wrap the bandage over the cast, overlapping the edges. Wait several minutes, or the amount of time indicated by the product instructions, to allow the cast to set. Once it’s set properly, remove the bandage and allow the cast to solidify fully.

Pipe repair clamps use a metal band and a rubber gasket secured with bolts to temporarily repair a leak along the length of a pipe. Different sized clamps let you fix a wider range of leak sizes than other methods. Begin by unscrewing the bolts that are securing the clamp. Slip the clamp over the pipe, making sure the rubber seal covers the leak fully. Use a wrench to tighten the bolts, compressing the rubber gasket against the pipe.

You can also use a rubber patch and a couple of adjustable pipe clamps to quickly create an emergency patch for minor leaks. Cut the patch to size and wrap it around the pipe to cover the leak. Remove the screw on one of the adjustable clamps and wrap the metal band around the pipe at one end of the patch. Insert the band back into the clamp and use a screwdriver to tighten the band. Repeat the process with a second clamp on the other side of the patch.

If you’re repairing a leaking copper pipe or a leaking chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CPVC) pipe, a push-to-connect slip coupling allows you to connect the undamaged pipe segments after removing the damaged portion. Depending on the fitting and your local plumbing codes, you can sometimes use this type of fitting for long-term repairs.

Use a pipe cutter to make square, clean cuts to remove the damaged part of the pipe. Smooth sharp edges at the cuts with a depth gauge/deburring tool as needed. Use the depth gauge portion of the tool to mark the end of each pipe as a guide for installing the coupling correctly. The manufacturer’s instructions should indicate the correct depth for different pipe diameters. Slide the end of the coupler labeled as the slip end onto the end of one pipe as far as possible. Using a specialized removal tool designed for your coupling, engage the release device on the coupling and slide it back onto the other pipe end as far as possible. It should align with the guide marks on both pieces of the pipe.

PEX pipe leaks usually occur at connections, which are held in place by crimp rings that compress the pipe against an internal fitting. If the leak is caused by an improperly crimped connection, it’s a relatively simple fix. This type of repair will require a couple of specialized tools: a PEX crimp tool and a PEX test gauge, known as a go/no-go gauge. These gauges often come with the crimp tool. Use the go/no-go gauge to check the crimp ring at the leak. If the ring doesn’t fit into the test slot for the pipe diameter you’re working with, you can often fix the leaking connection by crimping it again. After crimping, check the ring again with the gauge. If it still doesn’t slide into the appropriate slot, adjust the crimping tool slightly to compress the ring a bit more. Once the crimp ring fits into the appropriate slot on the test gauge, the leak should be fixed.

Some products are designed for specific types of pipes, so you need to identify the pipe you’re patching to find the right product. Common types include:

• Copper: This metal pipe is often used for water supply lines.
• Galvanized: Like copper pipe, this silver metal pipe is used to supply water.
• PVC: Rigid white plastic PVC pipe is often used in household drain systems. PVC pressure pipe is often used in home irrigation systems.
• CPVC: Like PVC, this pipe is rigid, but it’s a cream or tan color. It’s often used to supply hot and cold water to faucets.
• PEX: This flexible plastic pipe is often used for water supply lines. Red PEX is usually a hot-water supply line while blue is typically a cold-water supply line.
• Drain, Waste, Vent (DWV) and Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene Drain, Waste, Vent (ABS DWV): As the names suggest, you’ll see these rigid black plastic pipes in drain and wastewater applications.