How to Paint Furniture

If the surface has an existing finish that’s already smooth, sand it with a 220-grit sanding sponge and wipe clean with a moist cloth. For slightly rough surfaces, sand with 180-grit and 220-grit sanding sponges and then wipe clean.

Use painters tape to mask off any areas you don’t want to paint, such as drawer boxes, the interior of the cabinet, or hardware and hinges you can’t easily remove.

• If the piece of wood furniture is already stained, then you'll need a stain-blocking primer. 
• If the furniture already has dark paint on it, it requires a high-hiding primer. 
• For bare wood, a multi-purpose primer will suffice.

For more information about selecting the right primer for your project, read our Primer Buying Guide.

To apply the primer, brush in the direction of the grain to apply a thin coat and let it dry. An angled sash brush is handy for covering the corners. Sand the primed surface with a 220-grit sanding sponge and wipe clean. If necessary, apply a second coat of primer to ensure a smooth base for your paint.

Ensure the surface is smooth and fill any additional flaws or damage as needed. Sand smooth, prime and let dry.

Shine a portable, adjustable light at an angle on the surface you’re painting. Angled lighting helps to identify any surface imperfections, runs or drips.

If the item is small enough, consider tilting it on its side or end to paint surfaces one at a time while they’re horizontal.

When you're painting a piece of wood furniture, cabinet and furniture paint is recommended. It requires little prep work and stands up to daily use, drying to a smooth finish. It's also fade-, scratch-, and scuff resistant.  

Use a synthetic-bristle brush for latex paint or water-based stains and a natural-bristle brush for oil-based paint or oil-based stains. For flat surfaces, apply the paint using a 4-inch foam roller, taking care to avoid drips around the edges.

Inspect your work in angled light as you go, especially if you mix brushes and rollers. You'll want to ensure the surface looks the same throughout once it levels and dries.

After the first coat dries, check the surface for drips and runs. If you find one after the paint has completely dried, carefully sand it off. If you see paint on your sandpaper, stop immediately to keep paint from scratching the surface. 

Another technique is to lay a utility knife blade flat on the painted surface near the dried paint bump. Carefully tilt it until the edge shaves off the bump without damaging the surrounding paint. Add another thin coat to conceal the repairs.

To protect the finish, spray a light coat of clear sealer over the entire surface. Let it dry for at least 24 hours.

If the furniture is unfinished or you want to glaze over an old finish, apply a base coat of paint and wait for it to completely dry.

Working in small sections, apply a small amount of glaze to the furniture with a clean brush or cloth. Work it into the grain, corners and crevices, always going with the grain of the wood. Blend the glaze in, so that you don’t end up with streaks.

Wipe off the excess glaze with a clean cloth, smoothing out any circular marks as you move across the furniture. Depending on the antique look you want to achieve, leave on as much or as little glaze as you want.

Continue applying the glaze and wiping off the excess until you finish the entire piece of furniture. Let it dry completely. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for drying times.

To protect the antique finish, spray a light coat of clear sealer over the entire surface. Let it dry for at least 24 hours before moving it.