Garden Gate With Arbor and Fence

Measure between posts to verify placement as you go, and adjust the holes if needed. We used a 4 × 6 for the arbor posts (A) and a 4 ×4 for the line posts (B) - the larger posts give the arbor a more substantial feel, and they add visual interest.

Place 4 - 6 inches of gravel at the bottom of each hole to promote drainage. Now measure the depth of the arbor postholes from grade to gravel and add 96 inches to determine the overall length of the 4 x 6. Cut the post to length (See Cutting List).

Place a post back into one of the holes and recheck the alignment. Pour in a bag of quick-set concrete, add water, and check the post one more time to be sure it's level. Allow the concrete to harden, following the manufacturer's instructions, and add a second bag of mix to the hole if necessary to bring the concrete within 2 inches of grade. Backfill the remainder of the hole with dirt, and move to the next posthole.

Cut the spacers (D) to length, then cut a 2-inch 45-degree bevel on each end. Center the middle spacer first and then work your way to the posts, securing the spacers to the beam as shown by driving 2-1/2-inch deck screws at an angle through the spacers into the beams.

Assemble the remaining elements of the arbor on your workbench. Start by cutting the rails (E) to length, and cut a 3-1/2-inch 45-degree bevel on each end. Now cut 8 boards 23-1/2-inches long for the slats (F). Lay the rails on your bench so they are a post-width (A) apart - use a scrap from the post to get the proper spacing. Secure the slats to top edges of the rails.

Cut the bottom rail (G) and ends (H) to length for one section based on the between-post measurement. To determine the length of the wide rails (I) and narrow rails (J), subtract the thickness of two ends from the length of the bottom rail.

The number of pickets (K), will be determined by the length of your fence sections. Measure the length of the section and cut enough pickets to allow a 2-inch to 3-1/2-inch gap between the boards. Start in the middle and space the pickets evenly. Secure the pickets to the rails with 1-5/8-inch deck screws.

With all of the sections in place, add a piece of 5/4-inch decking as a cap rail (L). Use a longer piece to span several posts if you are building multiple sections. Adjust length of cap based on your fence needs.

Mark the angles and cut them with a jigsaw. Place the brace in between the rails and secure with screws. Add the vertical braces (O). Mark and cut the braces to fit and screw in place. Cut the pickets (P and Q) to length (Cutting List) and install the pickets, centering the middle wide picket and working your way to each side. Space the pickets about 3/4 inch apart. The edge of the last picket should be about 3/8 inches from the edge of the post. The width of the boards may vary, so adjust the spacing as you go.

Install the latch following the manufacturer's instructions. To provide additional protection of the treated wood, allow the material to dry for about two months before applying a deck or fence stain. A garden sprayer works great to coat all of the surfaces.