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Build your kids the coolest lemonade stand on the block. It's fully loaded with a chalkboard sign, awning, built-in cooler, and casters for easy transport.
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Cut 2" x 2" boards for the legs (A), caster legs (B), rails (C), dividers (D), and side rails (E). (Cutting List & Diagram and Drawing 1, Project Diagram). Sand the parts with 120-grit sandpaper. For the cut ends wrap sandpaper around a scrap and use it as a file to soften the corners.
Assemble the front of the stand -- the legs and rails -- using glue and screws. Strap clamps hold the assembly together as you drive the screws (Photo 1). Use the dividers as spacers to position the height of the rails as you assemble the frame. Drill countersunk pilot holes to prevent splitting the wood before you drive the screws.
With parts that are only 1-1/2" wide, the placement of screws is more important than with wider parts ( Drawing 2, Project Diagram). Carefully layout the location of each screw as you assemble each connection to avoid driving the screws too close to the edge of the boards, which may cause them to split.
Screw the upper divider to the top rail; at the midrail you'll need to drive the screws through the midrail into the divider at an angle so the drill will clear the bottom rail (Photo 2). Screw the lower divider to the bottom rail; here you'll need to drive the screw at a sharper angle to avoid the upper divider (Photo 3). Repeat these steps to complete the back frame of the stand.
Attach the side rails (E) to the front assembly using glue and screws (Drawing 3, Project Diagram), and (Photo 4).
Cut 1/4" plywood to size for the shelves (F) (Drawing 4, Project Diagram). Use a jigsaw to cut the notches that fit around the legs and dividers. The legs measure 1-1/2" square, so cut the notches slightly oversized (1-9/16" x 1-9/16") for an easy fit. Sand the shelves before installing.
Slide the shelves into the assembly between the side rails (Photo 5). Apply glue to the ends of the side rails, position the back frame assembly on the rails, drill countersunk pilot holes, and drive the screws to complete the frame.
Use glue and 1" wire nails to secure the shelves in position (Photo 6).
Cut the top (G) to and lid cleats (H) to size, from 1/2" plywood. Cut 1-9/16" notches at each corner for the legs. Layout the opening for the lid, drill a 3/8" clearance hole to slip the jig saw blade into the hole, and cut the lid opening. The lid will give you access to the handy cooler hidden inside the stand.
Glue the lid cleats to the underside of the top, they'll create a lip for the lid to rest on. Sand the top and secure in position with glue and nails.
Cut the side slats (I) and front slats (J) to length. Place tape on the floor and mark out the location of the slats with the 1/2" gaps between them. Set the frame on the slats and secure with screws (Drawing 5, Project Diagram) and (Photo 7). Don't apply glue at this time; you'll remove the slats later to make painting the lemonade stand easier.
Repeat the process off adding slats to the opposite side of the stand, then add the front slats. Align the edges of the front slats with the side slats, secure from the inside with screws.
Turn the case on its end to add the casters. Position the casters on the corners of the base and drill the holes for the 1/4" carriage bolts (Photo 8). Position the casters so you avoid the 2-1/2" screws that secure the legs to the bottom rails.
Cut the lid (K) to size and drill two 1-1/4" finger holes. (Drawing 6, Project Diagram) Sand the lid and smooth the edges; set aside for painting.
Place the galvanized area wall cover on top of the stand and clamp into position. Use the holes in the area well to locate and drill the 1/4" holes for securing the roof (Photo 9).
Cut 1/2" plywood and 1" x 2" boards for the sign (L), horizontal trim (M) and vertical trim (N). (Cutting List & Diagram and Drawing 7, Project Diagram). Cut a 45-degree miter on each piece of trim and glue and screw to the sign from the back face. The trim overhangs the plywood by 1/2" on each edge.
Remove the casters and slats from the assembly and prime the wood surfaces with an exterior primer. Paint the surfaces of the stand and the trim of the sign white. Paint the slats red, and use Valspar interior/exterior satin black brushing enamel for the chalkboard sign. Apply two coats of each color paint; allow the finish to dry for 48 hours before reinstalling parts and hardware.
Install the roof by securing the window well with carriage bolts, washers, and nuts through the holes you drilled earlier (Drawing 5, Project Diagram).
Drill 1/4" pilot holes for the eyebolts and twist the bolts into the holes. Tie a knot on the end of a 36" length of rope, slip through the eye bolts and tie the second end. Trim the rope so there's a 3" tail on each end. Slide the 24-can cooler on to the top shelf under the lid and install the towel bar.
Cut two pieces of canvas to 22" x 23-3/4" (Drawing 8, Project Diagram) for the curtains (Photo 10).
Make a 1/2" fold along the long edges of each panel and press with an iron. Fold the 1/2" seam once again and iron. Stitch the seam to reinforce the sides of the canvas.
At the bottom of the canvas, create a 3/4" fold, press with an iron, fold the fabric again 3/4" in from the bottom, iron, and double stitch the bottom of the curtain.
At the top, create a 1/2" fold, press with an iron, and fold again 1-1/4" down from the top. Sew the top seam to reinforce for the curtain hooks. Lay out the holes for the curtain hooks and create 3/16" holes with a crafts knife.
Add the curtain hooks to the newly made curtains and slide the hooks on to the curtain rod. The extension curtain rod expands at the top of the lemonade stand legs to stay secure. Add some simple ribbons to hold the curtains back.