| Type |
Uses / Features |
Example |
| Rip |
- Use for woodcutting with the wood grain
- Usually 24 inches to 26 inches long with 4 to 7 teeth per inch (TPI)
- Cuts very aggressively and leave slightly rough edge
|
 |
Cross-
Cut |
- Use for woodcutting across the wood grain
- Usually 24 inches to 26 inches long with 8 to 11 TPI
- Doesn't cut as aggressively as rip saws but leaves a much smoother edge
|
 |
Panel
(Short Cut or
Box Saw) |
- Use for woodcutting across the wood grain
- Usually shorter than regular cross cut saws, for easy portability
|
 |
| Coping |
- Use for fine woodcutting, coping moulding joints
- Has deep steel tension frames and very thin blades to make intricate cuts at extreme angles
|
 |
| Back |
- Use for fine woodcutting, moulding and trim
- Has a rigid piece along the back to prevent the saw from kinking during use
|
 |
| Pull |
- Use for fine woodcutting, moulding and trim
- Cuts on the pull stroke to give greater control and eliminates the possibility of the saw kinking in the kerf
|
 |
| Dovetail |
- Use for wood joint cutting
- Has a rigid back like a backsaw, but is usually smaller and has finer teeth
|
 |
| Keyhole |
- Use for circle and curve cutting in wood
- Has very thin, pointed blade for cutting small, tight-radius curves and holes
|
 |
| Compass |
- Use for circle and curve cutting in wood
- Has longer, coarser blade than a keyhole saw for slightly heavier work, such as cutting holes in subflooring for plumbing or electrical wiring
|
 |
| Drywall |
- Use for cutting wallboard, gypsum and backing board
- Resembles a compass saw but has coarser teeth for cutting through wallboard quickly
|
 |
| Hacksaw |
- Use for cutting metal
- Has very fine teeth and thin blades, held under tension in a steel frame
|
 |
Door
Jamb |
- Use to create clearance for flooring under door jambs and other obstacles
- Rear handle is offset to allow the blade to cut close to the floor
|
 |
| Laminate |
- Use for cutting moulding and plastic pipe
- Front of blade is rounded to start plunge cuts
|
 |
