Serving Cart

Mark and drill the 1/2-in holes 1-1/2-in deep, centered on the bottom of the rear legs for the Tee-nut and casters (Project Diagram, Cart). To drill the hole, clamp the leg flat on a bench to steady the leg, and use the work surface as an aid to help you drill the hole parallel to the length of the leg by keeping the bit parallel to the bench surface.

Drill the two 1-in holes, 3/8-in deep as shown on each blank to receive the aluminum handles, and drill the pocket holes located at each end of the blanks.

Cut the parts to shape and length using a jigsaw; sand smooth with 220-grit sandpaper.

Cut the cleats (F) and slats (G) to length and drill the pocket holes where shown on the cross rails and cleats (Project Diagram, Shelf).

Position the first slat, and drill a pilot hole for the screws. Drive one screw in each end of each slat, and install the remaining slats, spacing the parts with the drill bit and driving one screw in each end of each slat as you proceed. With all of the slats installed, go back and drive the remaining screws. (Stainless-steel or brass screws are a great choice here for an cart that will stay outdoors because they are corrosion resistant, but with these softer metals, the screws may strip or break when first cutting the threads into the wood.) Drive a standard steel screw first as you proceed, and then replace the screws with the stainless-steel screws.

Drill pocket holes on the ends of the dividers and supports as shown (Project Diagram, Top). Lay out the parts of the assembly in their proper orientations and work each part to keep organized.

Complete the top by adding the tile rails and the remaining cross rail to the bottle rail and divider assembly; drill and drive pocket holes as shown. Sand all of the assemblies using 120- and 220-grit sandpaper, taking time to soften the harsh edges of the wood as you go.

On each side assembly (Project Diagram, Side), you'll want to hide the pocket holes from view; to do this, glue and insert an oak pocket-hole plug in each opening. When the glue dries, sand the plugs flush to the rails and handle extensions with sandpaper.

Using glue and pocket holes, add the cross rail (H) to support the bottle shelf (L) where shown to the back leg 12-1/2-in up from the bottom shelf. With the cart still on its side, add the top assembly using glue and clamps. Position the top assembly so the tops of the rails are flush with the top of the side rails (Project Diagram, Cart) (you will drive the screws later).

Stand the cart on its legs and drill 1/4-in-deep countersunk holes where shown to permanently attach the two side assemblies to the top; drive screws through the sides into the rails. Cut 1-in long plugs from a dowel sized to match the countersunk holes. Glue a plug into each hole. Trim the plugs flush with a handsaw and sand smooth.

Lay the cart on its side and secure the lower shelf using pocket-hole screws as you did when you first installed the shelf to the first side. Glue the bottle shelf into position on the rail (I), centering the bottle shelf on the rail's length and width. Clamp and allow to dry.

Lightly sand the piece with a 320-grit sanding sponge and wipe clean with a tack cloth before applying a second coat of varnish. Apply a third coat for extra protection from the environment.

Reinstall the aluminum edging with screws. Flip the cart upside down to install the casters. Drive a Tee-nut into the bottom of the back legs (B). Thread the stem caster into the Tee-nut and tighten.

Center the two tiles on the tile rails between the two sides. Cut two pieces of 1/2-in x 1/2-in angle cut to fit between the aluminum edging and secure in position next to the tile. (We left about 1/16-in between the tile and the edging and equally spaced the tiles and angles between the two sides.) Secure the aluminum using #6 x 1/2-in panhead screws. Place rubber bumpers on the underside of the tiles and start entertaining your friends!