Tools and Materials
Tools
Materials
(4) 5/8" MDF sheets
2” Wood screws
(2) 1/2" Wood screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
12 Seps to Build Freestanding Shelves
Measure the dimensions (height, width and depth) of your shelving unit. Sketch your design on paper. Measure key components, such as beams (horizontal supports), vertical supports and cross-frame pieces.
For reference, we have used a 6 feet tall and 24 inches wide shelving unit. We have three shelves with a 1.47-foot spacing between each shelf. This is adequate for stacking a load of 300 pounds on it.
We have taken 6’ x 24” as it is the most versatile for most room sizes. For example, the average US bedroom measures approximately 10’ x 12’, allowing this shelving unit to be functional for compact or spacious interiors. Do remember that it is a framework, and you can adjust the dimensions accordingly.
Measurements:
Total Height: 6’
Total Length: 2’
Total Depths: 16”
Height between shelves: 1.47’
Length between Vertical Supports: 2”
Using the design shelving unit as a reference, lay the 5/8" MDF sheets out with a tape measure. Use a pencil to mark your measurements. Mark the area where the vertical supports meet the beams, the cross-frame pieces and where the frames touch the vertical supports.
For better alignment, draw two lines to represent two edges of the adjacent board instead of one centerline.
Always wear safety gloves and glasses when cutting wood to prevent any stray splinters from causing harm.
From the 16” x 6’ pieces:
- Cut out two pieces that measure 6’ for the sides.
- Cut two more pieces measuring 24” for the top and bottom.
This will help you in building a freestanding shelving unit that measures 24 inches wide and 6 feet tall.
With the frame ready, you’ll need to drill pilot holes into the wood to ensure there is no splitting when you start inserting screws into the MDF.
For the Top and Bottom Edges
- Drill pilot holes along the outer edge with about an inch from each end.
- Drill two pilot holes for the connection points, ensuring they are evenly spaced along the length.
For the Side Pieces
Countersink the Holes
To flush out the surface of your wood, countersink the holes. This will allow the screw heads to sit flat along the wood, giving it a clean and polished finish.
Use a clamp to hold the pieces in place while drilling, ensuring they are aligned.
After drilling the pilot holes, you are ready to join the pieces together to create the outer box.
- Take a 24” piece and lay it flat on your workspace with the edge facing towards you.
- Using a brush, apply a thin layer of wood glue along the outer edge, ensuring to cover 5/8" of the edge.
- Align the 24” piece with the 6’ piece, ensuring they form a 90° angle. You can use a speed square to confirm if they make a 90° angle.
- With the help of a clamp, hold both pieces together and insert screws into the pilot holes. Use a screwdriver to tighten them.
- Repeat the process with the other pieces as well to create the outer frame.
When tightening the screws, ensure you don’t overtighten them, as it can damage the MDF.
From the remaining 16” x 6’ MDF pieces with the help of a table saw:
- Cut six smaller pieces, measuring 24” for reinforcement boards and shelves.
- Cut twelve pieces measuring 13.87” for the vertical dividers that will go between the shelves.
To ensure that the shelf boards don’t sag underweight when attached, we need to reinforce and attach them.
- Take three 24” shelf boards and drill two pilot holes an inch from each end along the other edge. These holes ensure the shelf boards are securely attached to the side panels.
- Drill two more pilot holes evenly spaced in the middle of the board to prevent it from sagging.
- Countersink the pilot holes using a countersink bit to ensure a smooth finish.
- With the help of a brush, apply glue to one side of each reinforcement board.
With the reinforcements ready, it is time to attach them to the outer box.
- Position the first reinforcement board 2 feet from the bottom of the box. Place the second board 4 feet from the bottom and the third one just below the top, leaving a small gap.
- Ensure all the boards are aligned evenly and clamp them to hold them steady.
- Using a drill, insert screws using the pilot holes into the side panels, securing them in place. Don’t overtighten, as it can cause damage to the MDF.
Ensure you wear safety gloves and glasses when using the table saw to prevent any injury from stray splinters.
To increase the stability and strength of your freestanding shelf, you need to add shelf support.
- Take two 13.87” dividers and drill four pilot holes in them. Drill two holes an inch apart on each end along the outer edge.
- With the help of a countersink bit, create an indentation to allow the screw heads to sit flush with the surface.
- Apply a thin layer of wood glue to one end of both boards with the help of a brush.
- With the help of clamps, attach the shelf supports directly beneath each reinforcement board. You can align them perfectly with the help of the drill holes in the middle of the reinforcement boards.
- Ensure that each shelf support is perpendicular to the side panels
With the shelf support added, it’s time to add the shelves. Follow the process to add your first shelf:
- Take a 24” board and apply glue to a 5/8" strip at one end.
- Place the board glued side down on top of the two shelf supports.
- Drill pilot holes on both ends of the panels from the outside and countersink them. Screw them from outside the box, forming your first shelf.
Repeat the process to add the remaining two shelves, ensuring they are evenly spaced as per your design (1.47’ as per our framework).
Before adding dividers to the shelves, you need spacer blocks to help you space the dividers evenly.
- Cut two spacer blocks measuring 13.47” x 16” to help you space the dividers evenly.
- Lay the shelving unit on its side so it can be accessed from the bottom easily.
- Position one spacer block flat on the bottom of the shelving unit. Apply glue to your 13.47” divider and place it vertically against the spacer block.
- Drill pilot holes and countersink them through the reinforcement board into the divider. Screw it in tightly using a screwdriver.
- Place the spacer on the next shelf to ensure even spacing and repeat the process.
Once the structure is assembled, sand any rough edges. If you are using the shelving unit indoors and want it to look presentable, add some polish or paint. Check out our guide on how to paint furniture.
Make sure all screws are tightened and that the unit is stable. Drag the whole unit into the designated location. Use a level so you can check if it's perfectly upright. Adjust the base if necessary to stabilize it. This shelving unit should be quite stable due to its weight, but you can secure it to the wall or ceiling if you see the possibility of tilt or tip over.
If the vertical beams are wobbly because of an uneven floor, level it out by adding some scrap wood as a shim.