Raised Patio Planter Box

Cut the legs (C) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List). Place the end slats on 1-3/8-inch-thick spacers (we used 1-3/8-inch dowels) and slide the slats together to fully engage the tongues into the grooves. Add glue to the ends of the slats and position the leg so the leg top is even with the tongue of the top board. Drive 1-1/2-inch pocket-hole screws through the pocket-holes into the legs (Project Diagram, Drawing 1).

Using a procedure similar to making the end assemblies, place 7/8-inch-thick spacers (we used 7/8-inch dowels) under the back slats. Fit the tongues into the grooves of the boards, and apply glue to the ends of the slats. Pocket-screw the back slats to the back legs of the end-assemblies so the inside faces of the back slats and the back legs are flush (Project Diagram, Drawing 1).

Measure the distance between the frame fronts and backs, and cut the frame ends (E) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List, and Cutting Diagram). Drill two pocket-holes in each frame end. Fasten the frame ends to the frame fronts/backs (D) with 2-inch pocket-hole screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 2).

Measure the distance from the top edge of the upper frame front to the bottom edge of the lower frame front and cut the divider (F) to length. With the base/frames assembly face-down, center the divider on the frame fronts (D). Drill countersunk pilot holes through the frame fronts and into the divider and secure with screws.

Align the front and back wide slat ends with the tray support centerline, and position them so the outside edges align with the ends of the tray support. The ends of the slats will slightly overhang the outside face of the side slats. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the slats and into the tray support and the frame ends (E), and drive 1-1/2-inch deck screws. Space the narrow slats evenly between the wide slats (Project Diagram, Drawing 3).

Cut the box end lower trim (L) and box front and back lower trim (M) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List). Glue and position the end trim with the ends even with the outside faces of the box front and box back (J) and the lower edges 1/8 inch below the lower edges of the box ends (K). Drill pilot holes and fasten the end trim to the box ends with stainless-steel trim-head screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 4).

Cut the box front and back upper trim (N) and box end upper trim (O) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List). Glue and position the parts on the top edge of the box with the inside face of the parts even. Drill countersunk pilot holes, and fasten the upper trim to the box front and box back with 2-1/2-inch deck screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 4).

Lay one door frame on your work bench with the pocket-holes facing up. Apply a bead of exterior wood glue to the frame. Lay the first slat (R) on the frame with the groove edge even with the outside edge of the bottom of the door frame (Q). Nail the door slat to the frame with 1-1/4-inch galvanized finish nails (Project Diagram, Drawing 5).

Add the remaining slats, if the tongue of the upper door slat protrudes beyond the upper door stile, trim off the tongue with a utility knife, making several light passes. Build the second door in the same manner.

To mark the hinge locations, place the planter on its back and position the doors in the openings with the lower edges of the door and the divider (F) aligned. Using a square and pencil, mark lines on the door stiles (P) and front legs (C) even with the lower edges of the upper door rails (Q) and the upper edges of the lower door rails (Q).

Re-hang the doors and re-install the magnetic catches, strikes, and door pulls and re-secure the upper trim pieces. The planter is ready to be moved into position, filled with soil, and planted with vegetables or ornamental plants.