Preparing Wood for Stain
You may need to do some prep work with a wood conditioner before you begin applying wood stain. A wood conditioner allows the wood to accept the stain consistently, creating an even color with no blotching. Conditioners are particularly helpful with softwoods, such as pine, or very porous woods, such as maple. Apply an oil-based conditioner if you plan to use an oil-based stain and a water-based conditioner to prepare for water-based stains. Water-based conditioners will also help prevent the woodgrain from rising when you stain.
If the wood you’re staining has cracks and other imperfections, use stainable wood filler for a smooth wood finish. Just apply the filler with a putty knife, let the putty dry and sand it smooth.
Using Interior Wood Stain
When staining indoor wood furniture, shelving or other interior pieces, you’ll typically apply the stain with a brush or cloth, let it penetrate the wood (without drying) and then wipe off the excess. With some stains, you can darken the color with a second coat after several hours. Some stains may need only one coat; additional coats may create unattractive buildup. See the product information for details.
Water-Based, Oil-Based and Gel Stains
Interior wood stains are good for unfinished wood surfaces where you want to show off the natural beauty of wood, including:
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Trim work
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Moulding
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Cabinets
- Doors
Some stains are perfect for wood floors, and some can even work on metal, fiberglass and other surfaces.
Water-based (acrylic) interior stains have less odor than other stains and can be tinted in a variety of shades. They’re a good choice for maple and pine, woods that are usually difficult to stain. These stains dry quickly — in as little as one or two hours — allowing you to re-coat or apply a topcoat sooner and complete your project faster. However, you need to work in small sections to remove any excess stain before a section dries. While these stains aren’t recommended for use on floors, they’re ideal for wood surfaces like shutters, windowsills and doors. They’re available in a range of colors, and some even resemble paint. Water-based stains can raise the grain of the wood, so apply a wood conditioner first; you’ll avoid the need to sand the surface after applying the stain. These interior stains clean up with soap and water.
Oil-based (alkyd) interior stains add richness to the woodgrain. They apply easily, penetrate deeply into the wood and don’t cause the grain to rise. A longer drying time gives you more time to work with the stain so it doesn’t dry and create lap marks when staining floors, doors and other large surfaces. Oil-based stains require mineral spirits for cleanup.
Gel stains are oil based, but they’re thicker than liquid stain, with less risk of running, making them good options for vertical surfaces like doors and cabinets. Gel stains don’t soak into the grain of the wood the way liquid stains do, so while they’re not recommended for hardwood floors, they create a more even appearance on other wood surfaces and reduce patchy color on softer woods. These stains work on surfaces like veneer, metal and fiberglass in addition to wood. Like oil stains, gel stains clean up with mineral spirits.
There are types of water-based stains and oil-based stains that work on hardwood floors. If you’re staining a hardwood floor, make sure you’re using a suitable stain.
Interior Wood Stain Colors
Oil-based wood stains are available in popular colors and traditional wood shades as well, including:
With water-based products, you can find black wood stains as well as brown and gray shades. Bolder red, green and blue shades are also available. If you can’t find the tinted color you want, look for tintable interior water-based stains, which give you a couple hundred color choices.
Transparency refers to the color of the stain and the final appearance of the stained wood. You’ll see stains labeled as semi-transparent or solid. Semi-transparent stains have a lighter color that allows the natural texture of the wood to show through. Solid stains mask the grain of the wood with a bolder color.
Test a stain on an inconspicuous portion of the piece you’ll be staining or on a scrap piece of the same type of wood. Once it dries, see what it looks like in the light of the room where the final piece will be. Factors such as the natural color and texture of the wood, the opacity of the stain, and the type of light that hits the piece impact the final color and appearance, so it’s good to know what to expect.
Protective Wood Finishes
Stained wood requires a protective finish to resist scratches, water and, in some cases, ultraviolet (UV) light from the sun. If you aren’t using a product that’s a stain and sealer in one, you need a topcoat to make sure it lasts. These protective finishes are sometimes called varnishes, although actual varnish is just one type of protective topcoat.
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Water-based polyurethane, sometimes combined with acrylic, dries quickly, so there’s less wait time between coats. The final finish is clear, displaying the color of the wood or stain. This makes it a good finish for lighter woods. Some of these water-based finishes are formulated to protect hardwood floors. Water-based polyurethane has less odor than oil-based products and cleans up with soap and water.
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Oil-based polyurethane dries to a hard finish with a light amber tint. This golden tone gives wood a warm look. It also holds up well against abrasion and scratches and can be a great protective finish for hardwood floors. This finish requires fewer coats than the water-based formula but takes longer to dry. It requires mineral spirits for cleanup.
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Oil-modified polyurethane offers the warm finish of an oil-based topcoat and is durable enough for wood floors. It also provides the quick-drying benefit of a water-based finish that requires only soap and water for cleanup.
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Lacquer creates a clear, high-gloss finish with just a couple of coats. It’s relatively easy to apply and is fast drying. Keep in mind that it can develop an amber tint as it ages and may scratch more easily than other finishes. Lacquer can work on metal surfaces as well as wood. It’s not recommended for floors. Cleanup requires lacquer thinner.
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Shellac is an alcohol-based natural topcoat that adds a warm look and a slight amber cast to wood surfaces, so consider whether that’s the look you want on light woods. It’s not as heat-resistant as some finishes and might not be the best choice for surfaces that’ll come into contact with hot plates or mugs. You can use it on floors, but because it’s not as scratch-resistant as polyurethane, your floors will need more upkeep. This wood sealer also works on drywall, metal, cured masonry and cured plaster. Shellac cleans up with denatured alcohol or ammonia and water.
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Spar urethane, a type of varnish, is a highly resilient topcoat. While drying time is relatively long, it creates a highly durable finish that protects wood from damage caused by water, temperature changes and UV light. It’s good for wood surfaces that come into contact with moisture — such as bar tops and bathroom cabinets — and on windows or trim that gets a lot of sunlight. Spar urethane is an oil-based finish and cleans up with mineral spirits.
Check the manufacturer’s information to make sure the wood prep, stain and finish products are suitable for your project. Follow the safety instructions and make sure you have good ventilation.
Finish Sheen
Sheen describes how much shine or luster a finish or topcoat offers.
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High-gloss and gloss finishes give wood a deep, brilliant look but can make surface blemishes more apparent.
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Semi-gloss finishes give wood a lower level of shine.
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Satin finishes give wood a more natural look with moderate shine. They can hide minor imperfections on a wood surface.
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Flat and matte finishes offer a very low shine or no shine at all and can help hide surface imperfections.
Other Protective and Decorative Finishes
You can find other products that help protect or beautify wood, including tung oil, Danish oil and finishes designed for specific uses such as conditioning butcher blocks and cutting boards.
Wood effects, washes and other decorative finishes let you create weathered, aged, burnt or crackled looks or even turn latex paint into a glaze. Some types work in place of stains and topcoats, while others are applied over stained wood.
If you’re finishing a surface that’ll have direct contact with food, make sure the finish is food-safe.
Wood Repair
Even with a good protective topcoat, minor damage like scratches and nicks can mar stained and finished wood. But this type of damage doesn’t necessarily mean you need to refinish. There are several wood repair products that can help restore the look of the wood. Stain pens and markers, wood filler pencils and tinted wood putty are matched to many traditional stain colors, allowing you to conceal minor damage simply and quickly.