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Create a hearth look for your range by making a simple yet handsome wooden canopy for the vent hood.
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This hood surround is designed to accommodate an exhaust fan kit that mounts in a custom built hood. Different models may require you to modify the blower frame to match the manufacturer’s installation instructions. If you choose a painted finish for the surround, change the oak parts to pine or poplar and use birch plywood for the sides.
Cut the apron sides (A), and apron front (B) from 1 x 6 oak boards (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram). On the inside face at one end of each apron side, drill two pocket holes (Project Diagram, Drawing 1). Sand the sides and front apron boards with 120-grit and 150-grit sandpaper.
Apply glue to the ends of the side aprons with the pocket holes and assemble the apron (Project Diagram, Drawing 1) with pocket-hole screws and clamps.
Cut the frame top (C) and the frame sides (D) from a 1 x 2 oak board (Project Diagram, Cutting List, and Cutting Diagram). At the top end of each frame side, drill one pocket-hole (Project Diagram, Drawing 1). Sand the sides and top frame boards with 120-grit and 150-grit sandpaper.
Apply glue to the pocket-hole ends of the frame sides and assemble the mounting frame (Project Diagram, Drawing 2) with pocket-hole screws and clamps.
Cut the plywood panels for the sides (E) (Project Diagram, Cutting List, and Cutting Diagram). Use a circular saw and a straightedge or a table saw to size the panel. Mark the panel where it needs to be cut and measure the distance from the blade to the edge of the circular saw base. Clamp a board parallel to the marked line on the plywood panel.
Using the board as a guide, push the saw across the panels, pressing the saw base tight against the guide for a straight cut.
When cutting matching panels with a circular saw and straightedge, cut both parts at the same time. One setup and one cut equals a perfect match. A few small pieces of double-faced carpet tape between the panels can help keep the parts from shifting while you cut.
Mark the angled cut for the front of the sides (Project Diagram, Drawing 3) and set your saw guide. Make the cut using a circular saw and sand the panels with 150-grit sandpaper.
Drill countersunk pilot holes, and then glue and screw the side panels to the apron sides (B) (Project Diagram, Drawing 3). The bottom edges of the sides should be 4 inches up from the bottom of the apron sides.
When drilling countersunk pilot holes for screws, adjust the bit length to equal the screw length. That makes driving screws easier and prevents splitting the wood.
Cut a 1 x 3 pine board for the hanger rail (F) and secure it between the top back edges of the sides.
This project is designed to accommodate a variety of component kits that fit into a custom range hood. The part of the project that will need to be adapted to secure the hood into the cabinet is the blower frame. Verify the mounting instructions for your unit and modify the frame as required.
Cut the frame front/back (G) to fit between the sides (E) and cut the frame ends (H) from 1 x 3 pine (Project Diagram, Cutting List, and Cutting Diagram). Drill countersunk pilot holes, apply glue, and screw the frame together (Project Diagram, Drawing 4).
Insert the frame into the cabinet and secure to the sides (E) using #8 x 1-1/4-in flathead screws. The bottom edge of the frame should align with the bottom edges of the sides and the back of the frame should be even with the back of the surround.
Cut the cleats (I) and slats (J) to length. Make a 15-degree angle cut at the bottom end of each cleat (Project Diagram, Drawing 5). Sand the parts with 120-grit and 150-grit sandpaper. For the slats, sand all the corners and edges to remove any sharp points.
Place the slats on some scrap boards and align the ends. Drive 6d finish nails into the scrap boards between the slats to act as spacers.
Set the cleats in position on the panel and drill 5/32-inch pilot holes through the cleats into the slats. The holes should be 2 inches deep.
Place a tape flag on your drill bit that matches the depth of hole you wish to drill. Stop when the flag touches the wood.
Remove the cleat and sand off any wood fibers around the holes you drilled in the parts. Then attach the cleat using glue and 2-inch-long panhead screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 5).
Set the access panel into the hood surround and secure with clamps. Drill countersunk pilot holes to attach the access panel with stainless-steel screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 6). The front of the cabinet can be easily removed with just two screws after it is installed to gain access to the duct and internal components if maintenance is ever required. Remove the access panel.
Sand any remaining rough edges of the mounting frame, hood surround assembly and access panel. Apply a wood stain (Minwax Weathered Oak shown) following the instructions on the can. After the finish cures, apply two coats of a wipe-on polyurethane finish, sanding between coats with a fine-grit sanding sponge.
Clamp the mounting frame in the opening between your cabinets with the frame top even with the tops of the cabinet face frames and the front edges even with the front face of the cabinets. Drill pilot holes and screw the frame in place (Project Diagram, Drawing 7).
Locate the wall studs between the cabinets using an electronic stud finder and mark the locations on the wall. Slide the hood surround into the opening within the mounting frame (Project Diagram, Drawing 8). The surround should be pushed back until it touches the wall and lifted up until the top edges of the apron sides (A) contact the bottom of the mounting frame sides (D).
Drill pilot holes through the hanger rail (F) and the blower frame back (G), and secure the surround to the wall studs with 2-1/2-inch screws. Drill countersunk pilot holes and screw the sides of the surround to the mounting frame sides.
Install the exhaust fan components following the manufacturer’s instructions (Project Diagram, Drawing 9). The location of the rough-in kit will depend on the direction of the duct that removes the exhaust air from the kitchen -- it can be secured to the ceiling or wall to power the unit.
Place the access panel on the front of the surround with the cleats (I) fitting between the sides (E). Push the unit up until the top slat reaches the top of the mounting frame. Push the bottom of the panel into the surround so the bottom slat rests on the top edge of the apron front (B) (Project Diagram, Drawing 10).
Secure the access panel to the front of the hood surround with two stainless-steel flathead sheet-metal screws. These screws hold the panel in place, but allow easy access for maintenance.
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