Installing an underground sprinkler is a great way to conserve water and save money on irrigation. This type of lawn irrigation system can be a complicated Do-It-Yourself project, but with right preparation and materials can be completed in a weekend or two.
Living landscapes need water to survive and flourish, and relying completely on natural rainfall sometimes isn't the best method of supplying water. With the convenience of spraying water directly where it needs to go, and the ability to automate your watering schedule, an underground sprinkler system might be the best irrigation for your needs. Installing your own home irrigation system can save you money. However, it's not one of the easiest do-it- yourself projects around.
To decide if you really need an underground irrigation system consider:
Planning and purchasing the correct components are the keys to success. But don't be discouraged, most manufacturers of home irrigation systems have design and planning guides that simplify the job considerably.
Use our online system planner to decide whether to do it yourself or hire a pro.
Before installing a permanent irrigation system, you'll need to:
In order to purchase the right components, you'll also have to determine your own specific:
Before beginning any excavation, call 811 to check for underground utilities.
There are two measurements of water pressure, working (when the water supply is turned on) and static (when the water supply is shut off). You'll need your working water pressure number.
Checking your water pressure requires a pressure gauge. If you can't borrow one from a plumber buddy, you can buy one. The gauge attaches to the outside faucet and provides a pressure reading in pounds per square inch (psi). Make sure all other water faucets (indoors and out) are turned off when you take the reading.
You can also get your water pressure from your local municipality, but it's likely to be an average for the neighborhood rather than for your home specifically.
If you're on a municipal water system, you should find the size imprinted on the meter itself. If you can't locate it, look on your utility bill or call your water provider. Water meters are 5/8-inch, 3/4-inch or 1-inch.
If your water comes from a source other than a municipal system, such as a well, you'll need the pump size. Look in the owner's manual or if necessary, contact the manufacturer.
To match the size of irrigation pipe to your existing water service, you'll need to know the size of your incoming supply line. To do so:
1. Get a piece of string.
2. Wrap it once around the water pipe.
3. Measure the length and compare to the chart below.
| String Length
|| 2 3/4-in.
|| 3 1/4-in.
|| 3 1/2-in.
|| 4 1/8-in.
|Copper Pipe||3/4-in.||1-in.||1 1/4-in.|
|PVC Pipe (sch 40)||3/4-in.||1-in.|
Flow rate is measured in gallons per minute (GPM):
A 3-gallon bucket takes 15 seconds to fill .3÷15 = 0.2
0.2x60 = 12 GPM or 720 GPH
A 4-gallon bucket takes 30 seconds to fill .4÷30 = 0.130
.13x60 = 7.8 GPM or 468 GPH
To determine backflow prevention requirements, refer to local ordinances.
When you've completed all of the preliminary research, it's time to start laying out your system. Most yards have a variety of elements that have to be considered when laying out an irrigation system:
Because of these features, you'll most likely have to create more than one watering zone. The number of zones you need also depends on the GPM your system can supply. A zone (or circuit) is an independently contained set of pipe and sprinkler heads. Zones are determined by the physical attributes of your landscape and the capacity of your water supply. Each zone has its own control valve.
A map is essential when establishing watering zones. Begin by measuring and mapping your property to scale on graph paper. A scale of 1 inch = 10 feet is recommended. The map should include the house and all permanent landscape features. Mark on the map where the water meter is located. Use our online system planner.
Landscape features need to be clearly marked so that the installed system will water only areas with living materials and will provide complete coverage for them. Note prevailing winds if you feel they'll affect coverage. More importantly, mark sloping areas in your lawn. If your yard is sloped, the water pressure changes (lower as the elevation increases, higher as it decreases), affecting the amount of water delivered by the sprinkler.
You'll also need to draw where the manifold will be located. The manifold needs to be located in an inconspicuous spot near the water supply line.
Be prepared to make more than one version of the map if necessary. It's much easier to explore alternatives on paper before you begin digging. Keep the final zone map for reference. It will come in handy if future maintenance is required.
When installing a sprinkler system, 100 percent coverage is essential to avoid dry spots. In order to achieve this, overlap the spray pattern. "Head to head" coverage refers to the sprinkler head layout that allows spray from each sprinkler head to reach the adjacent head, ensuring overlap.
Each sprinkler head is designed for a specific watering need. Many are adjustable to allow targeted spot-watering without watering inorganic objects such as sidewalks, driveways or the house.
Select sprinkler heads based on the coverage required. The number of zones and the sprinkler head size and style depend on the location of trees, shrubs, lawn and sidewalks. Large areas need one style, corners need another, and areas under shrubs need still another type. Your irrigation planning guide should have a list of sprinkler head types.
Pop-up style lawn sprinkler heads are installed just below ground level. Set pop-up sprinkler heads so that they will not be damaged by mowers or foot traffic when retracted. The best ones are adjustable. Shrub sprinklers are taller for use in flower and shrub beds. When selecting the proper height to install, keep in mind the mature size of the plants.
Done with the planning? Take your water measurements and maps with you when shopping for parts.
You must select your system components to match your water supply and water pressure. A mismatch will either overstress the system or provide insufficient irrigation.
Polyvinyl chloride (or PVC) pipe is the most common irrigation material. The familiar rigid white material is stronger than polyethylene. Connections are made using adhesive.
The alternative material is polyethylene. Because it's flexible, it's used in colder climates to adapt to extended freeze cycles. Polyethylene comes in rolls and can be curved around natural and manmade obstacles, requiring fewer fittings than PVC. Connections are made with specially designed clamps.
Both types of pipe are cut with a handsaw or pipe cutter.
A machine called a pipe puller is great for installing polyethylene pipe, but requires a little expertise to operate. Unless you want to get some on-the-job training in your front lawn, this machine is perhaps best left to the pros.
When assembling piping, applying heat to the ends of the pipes can make them easier to connect.
The design is done, the parts are selected and you are ready to dig and install. Lay out the location of the lines with stakes and string. Place a flag or other marker where the sprinkler heads will be located.
The trenches required for the system are relatively shallow — 6-12 inches deep depending on the freeze cycles and frost severity in your area. The trench must also be deep enough to allow the sprinklers to retract underground to prevent breakage from lawn machines.
Dig the trench by hand or rent a trencher (a real time saver). If you choose to dig by hand, a garden spade with a square edge is the best tool to use. A ditch spade is also pretty handy for working in a narrow space. It's advisable to hand dig in flower or shrub beds to prevent damage to plants.
The trenches must be level. If some heads are lower than others, gravity will reduce efficiency. Dig only as much as you can install in each work session. Save the sod to re-cover the trench.
Assembly is a snap once all of the pre-planning is complete. Lay out the pieces first. Pre-assemble parts when possible before putting them in the trench. It's best to connect components working outward from the manifold.
Cut the pipe to length with a hacksaw or pipe cutter. Make your cut straight so the pipe will be fully seated in the fitting.
Smooth and bevel the edges slightly with a knife or fine file.
Insert the pipe into the fitting and adjust to the correct position. Mark the pipe and fitting with a reference line to make it easy to find the position again after you have added the cement.
Remove the pipe from the fitting.
Clean the surfaces to be mated with a solvent primer.
Brush both the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting with cement.
Push the pipe into the fitting with your reference marks 1/4 turn apart. Twist the pipe to align the marks. This spreads the cement and makes a bead along the edge of the fitting. The bead should extend all the way around the pipe. Work quickly — the adhesive sets in about 30 seconds. If you make a mistake, separate the parts quickly. Once the joint is set, it's stuck for good.
Cut the pipe to length with a pipe cutter or hacksaw.
Place a clamp on each end.
Insert the fitting into the pipe.
Tighten the clamps.
Systems vary by manufacturer, with the heads usually threading onto the riser. Read and follow your individual model's instructions carefully.
It's very important to flush debris from the line before final connection of sprinkler heads. It's difficult to locate blockages after everything is in place. A final flush also allows you to check for leaks in the pipeline.
There are two ways to connect your irrigation system to the water supply.
If you plan on connecting your system directly to the service line, you may want to hire a professional to do the work.
Most municipalities require installation of backflow preventers on irrigation systems. Backflow can be caused by:
Backflow can allow chemicals from the lawn to enter the water supply and cause serious problems. A backflow prevention mechanism closes the system when not in use. Make sure it's installed properly. Always read and follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Each zone will have its own controlling valve (only one valve per zone). For future maintenance and repair, note which valve is for which zone.
The manifold groups the valves in one area and allows all zones to be routed through one control. You will be able to run one zone at a time to maximize water pressure.
The timer controls which zone is being watered. Choose timers based on the number of zones you have. Keep a copy of the timer/zone assignments (much as you would keep a reference of electrical circuits in a breaker box). Timers can be programmed to run for a specified time and shut off automatically. A rain/moisture sensor feature is available to detect water levels and shut on and off when needed — a great way to water when you're away from home. Some areas require these sensors as part of an irrigation system.
Many timers come equipped with WI-FI connectivity and can automatically regulate your watering schedule based on current weather. Some can even create detailed reports on water usage and soil conditions. With the ability to control these timers from a tablet or handheld device, they make a perfect smart home solution.
You may need to prepare your system for winter to avoid damaging or breaking pipes and connections. In temperate and warm regions, you may get away with simply covering above-ground piping with insulation (in these climates, the ground doesn't get cold enough to freeze). For colder climates, this winterization process can be a DIY job, but especially for larger landscapes, it might be beneficial to hire a professional.
To ensure your system is properly protected check with owner's manual or with the manufacturer for best practices.
1. Check to see if your system has auto-drain valves. If so, simply turn off water supply, open valves and allow excess water to drain from the system. This one step is sufficient to winterize underground irrigation systems with auto-drain.
2. If you have manual drains you will need to use an air compressor with pressure between 50-100 PSI. Small air compressor with lower PSI will not be able to clear water from your system.
3. Open valve manifolds to allow any remaining water to drain.
4. Hook air compressor and run air through each the zone in your system until you've cleared all zones of water.
5. Be sure to remember to turn off timer to avoid additional water from entering the system.
Be sure to wear protective eyewear when operating an air compressor to prevent injury.