This DIY mirrored wall cabinet combines a full-length mirror with vertical storage. Conceal jewelry and accessories on the hooks and small shelves inside.
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Cut the stiles (A), top/bottom rails (B), rails (C), upper shelf (D), middle shelf (E) and edging (F) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List, and Cutting Diagram). Sand the parts with 150-grit sandpaper.
Apply glue to the ends of the top and bottom rails (B), and clamp them between the stiles (A) to form the mirror frame. Drill countersunk pilot holes and drive 1-1/2-inch screws to reinforce the frame (Project Diagram, Drawing 1 and Drawing 2).
Flip the frame upside down and nail the first rail (C) to the bottom face of the top rail (B). The rail should be inset from the face of the frame by 5/8 inch (Project Diagram, Drawing 1).
Stand the mirror frame upright and add the remaining top/bottom rail (B) standing vertical on the lower rail using glue and a clamp. This rail should also be inset from the face of the frame by 5/8 inch (Project Diagram, Drawing 1, and Drawing 2).
Add the remaining rail (C) to the top edge of the bottom rail just installed using glue and nails.
Drill 1/16-inch holes 1/4 inch deep on one face of the upper shelf (D) and middle shelf (E) (Project Diagram, Drawing 3). The holes will be used to secure the bracelet bars (G) and to install the cup hooks.
To prevent drilling holes all of the way through the shelves, place a piece of tape 1/4 inch from the end of the drill bit to mark the proper depth.
Add the edging (F) to the shelf (D) and cut two pieces of 1-3/8-inch-diameter dowel to length for the bracelet bars (G) (Project Diagram, Cutting List, and Cutting Diagram). Sand the parts, and glue and clamp them to the middle shelf (E) on the face opposite the drilled holes from the previous step.
After the glue dries for 30 minutes, remove the clamps and drill a countersunk pilot hole through the middle shelf and into the dowels. Drive screws to secure the parts (Project Diagram, Drawing 2).
Clamp the upper shelf (D) and the middle shelf/bracelet bar assembly (E, G) inside the cabinet and nail it in place through the stiles (A) using 4d finish nails. Like the other internal frame parts, these parts set back from the front of the frame (Project Diagram, Drawing 1). The upper shelf is inset by 5/8 inch and the middle-shelf assembly is inset by 1-1/4 inch.
Cut the back (H) to fit inside the mirror assembly. Glue and screw it in place. Note that the back attaches to the top rail C and does not fully cover the vertically installed bottom rail (B).
Apply mirror adhesive to the back (H) (Project Diagram, Drawing 4) and set the framed mirror centered in the storage frame.
Cut the face rails (I) and the face stiles (J) to length (Project Diagram, Cutting List, Cutting Diagram). Sand the parts with 150-grit sandpaper.
When adding parts to an assembled frame, small errors in cutting the material to length can affect the fit. Set the parts in position on the assembled frame, and mark and cut them to precisely fit the actual assembly.
Glue and nail the rails to the front of the mirror assembly. Then add the frame stiles to fit between the rails (Project Diagram, Drawing 4).
Apply painter’s tape to the exposed portion of the mirror frame and enough of the mirror glass to protect it while you paint. Sand any remaining rough surfaces with 150-grit sandpaper and apply two coats of paint.
When the paint dries, remove the painter’s tape and add cup hooks to the shelves and the 48-inch cabinet hinge on the edge of one of the stiles (A) (Project Diagram, Drawing 5). Which side you mount it on will determine which way you open the cabinet in your finished space. Install the hinge so its edge aligns with the inside face of the stile and the hinge is centered vertically on the length of the stile.
To more accurately place a hinge, set it in position using double-faced tape. Drill the pilot holes using a self-centering hinge bit and drive the screws. Then remove the screws and hinge, remove the tape, and re-install the hinge.
Use an electronic stud finder to locate a wall stud, and mark the wall with a level indicating the center of the stud (Project Diagram, Drawing 6).
Cut a spacer to lift the cabinet off the floor -- ours was 10 inches long. Set the cabinet in position so the hinge is centered on the wall stud.
Drill pilot holes at each hinge hole with a self-centering bit. Then drive #6 x 1-1/2-inch-long screws into the studs (Project Diagram, Drawing 6).
Add a cabinet catch to the inside face of the non-hinged side of the mirror cabinet (Project Diagram, Drawing 5, and Drawing 6). Where the catch meets the wall, secure a strike plate to the wall with a screw and wall anchor.
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