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This game board lets you choose your favorite fun. Use the side with pegs for a family game of ring toss, and use the other side as a dry-erase board.
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Cut two pieces of tileboard and the OSB panel to 23-1/2" x 31-1/2". (If possible, use the same table saw settings for each piece to make sure all three are the same size.)
From the 1" x 2" boards, cut 45-degree miters on two sides of equal length and the top and bottom pieces to fit the MDF and tileboard. Apply painter's tape to the mitered ends and run a strip of 1"-wide tape centered along the inside face of each frame piece. Prime and paint the frame pieces. After the paint dries, remove the tape and set the parts aside.
Cut the dowels into a dozen 3-7/8"-long pieces. (You'll lose about 1/8" along the length of the dowel with each saw cut.) Tape around the dowel about 1/2" from the end and paint the rest of each dowel.
When taping the dowels, use tape that's wide enough to leave a flap at the end. You can use this to hang the freshly painted dowels from a string or nail while the paint dries.
Using wood glue, attach one tileboard (with the glossy side out) to the MDF with the edges and ends flush. Clamp and let dry.
To press the tileboard against the MDF where clamps can't reach, place heavy items such as full paint cans, concrete blocks, or even a bucket of water (avoid spills) on the center of the panel.
On the tileboard/MDF panel, mark the dowel locations (Game Board Project Diagram) and drill 5/8" holes through the tileboard and MDF. Clean up the area around the hole where the bit exits.
Glue and clamp the other tileboard to the OSB panel and allow it to dry. Apply glue to the unpainted ends of the dowels and insert them into the holes. Take care to avoid bowing the tileboard by driving the dowel in too far.
Glue and clamp the frame pieces to the board, making sure the mitered corners are tight. After the glue dries, reinforce the joint by drilling 1/16" pilot holes and driving #15 x 1-1/2" nails. Putty the nail holes and touch up the paint where needed.