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Sewing Station

Work your stitchcraft on at this nifty needle-and-thread nook, featuring lots of counter space, cabinetry, and a special felt board for displaying your latest, greatest creations.

Sewing Station

Project Overview

Skill Level


Estimated Time

1-2 weeks

Estimated Cost


Tools and Materials


  • Tape measure
  • Drill
  • Miter box with handsaw
  • Kreg pocket-hole jig
  • Clamps
  • Paintbrush
  • Staple gun
  • Box cutter
  • Straight edge
  • Felt


  • 4- Evertrue 3.7" rosette pre-primed molding block (#219176)
  • 1- 1" x 4' x 8' insulated sheathing (#14615)*
  • 3- 11/16" x 1-1/4" x 8' pre-primed fluted casing (#15225)
  • 3- 1" x 3" x 6' pine board (#933)
  • 1- Titebond II 4 oz. premium wood glue (#218256)
  • 1- Kreg 100-pack wood screws (#205317)
  • 1- Qt. Valspar Thunderstorm paint (CI 54, #213421)

Items may be Special Order in some stores. Product costs, availability, and item numbers may vary online or by market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market for lumber species and sizes.

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The sewing station's laminate countertop offers plenty of room to work, and features an opening in the back so fabrics can flow freely rather than getting bunched up by the wall. The workspace also includes cabinets galore -- some without doors for visual variety and a high-end look -- and under-cabinet lighting (#102996) so you can see while you sew.

Step 1

Cut Boards

Cut two of the pine boards down to 52-1/2 inches. Cut the third into two boards, each measuring 21-1/2 inches. Use a miter box to keep your cuts square. Following the manufacturer's directions, use your Kreg pocket-hole jig to attach the four cut pine boards so you have a frame that measuring 52-1/2 inches x 26-1/2 inches. For added strength, dab wood glue on each joint before you screw them together (you may also want to drill pilot holes to ensure the wood does not split). This frame will be the base to which you attach the corner blocks and trim.

Step 2

Attach with wood glue and clamps
Mark 1/2 inch out from the inside of each corner of the frame, so you know where to attach the four Rosette molding blocks. Line up the inward-facing corners of each block using these marks. Attach all four corner blocks with wood glue and clamps. Don't use too much glue; this will cause the blocks to shift around while clamping. Clamp carefully to ensure the corner blocks are attached squarely. Allow glue to dry.

Step 3

Cut to size
For the best fit, measure and cut the fluted casings to fit each space between the rosette blocks at each corner (use a miter box to keep your cuts square). The shorter pieces should be 20-1/2 inches and the longer pieces 46-1/2 inches. Mark your measurements and cut your fluted casings to size, making sure you mark where each piece goes.

Step 4

Glue and Clamp casings
Glue and clamp the fluted casings between the four corner blocks. Again, be careful not to use too much glue. The inside edge of the fluted casing should be flush with the inside corner of the corner block. Allow glue to dry.

Step 5

Paint the frame
Pre-primed corner blocks and fluted casings make painting the frame quick and easy. Because the edge of the base frame shows, you may want to paint it as well.

Step 6

Score the insulation sheet
Make dimensional marks on a 1-inch insulation sheet with a box knife and carefully score the sheet with the knife and a metal straight edge. Flip the foam sheet over and score along the same lines on the reverse side. Place the straight edge along the score and snap the foam board free. Set aside. (Dimensions are 45 x 19 inches.)

Step 7

Cut the felt
Unfold the felt on the work surface and spread smooth. Place the foam board on the felt, leaving a 3- to 4-inch margin along the top and one of the sides. Use scissors to cut the fabric parallel to the other two sides of the foam, leaving a 3- to 4-inch margin on all sides.

Step 8

Secure with staples
Center the foam board on top of the felt. Beginning in the center of a long side, fold the felt over the foam and secure with three heavy-duty 3/8-inch staples placed parallel to the edge, about 2 inches apart. Rotate the board so the unstapled long side is nearest you. Beginning in the center, pull the felt firmly but gently and secure with three staples to mirror the other long side. Repeat the center staples on the short sides, pulling the felt taut but not too tight.

Step 9

Secure with staples
Beginning anywhere, secure the fabric to the foam board roughly 2 inches apart around the entire perimeter, gently pulling the felt taut as you go. Leave a tidy flap of felt on each corner. Fold the flaps flat and secure with staples. Flip the board over and smooth. If there are any ripples, remove staples from that section, smooth and re-staple. When finished, fit into wall-mounted frame.

This fabric-adherent felt board is perfect for placing piecework without pins.