Turn a stock cabinet and everyday materials into a kid's kitchen that's sure to entertain for years to come. It's easy to build, so start spoiling your little ones today!
Items may be Special Order in some stores. Product costs, availability, and item numbers may vary online or by market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market for lumber species and sizes.
Missing anything? Shop Online
Cut the stair tread material into two parts (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram) to make the divider (A) and the top (G); set the top aside. Slip the divider into the cabinet, center it, and secure though the top and bottom with 2-inch flathead screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 1). (The piece needs to be 1/4-inch shorter than the height of the inside of the cabinet to give it room to slide in and tilt into position.) Hold the divider tight to the bottom and against the front of the cabinet. The void at the top will not affect further steps.
This fun project starts off with an 18-inch x 30-inch wall cabinet. To prepare, remove the doors and sand all of the interior and exterior surfaces with 150-grit sandpaper. This will provide a good bonding surface for paint and glue. Sand other parts before you glue or screw them in place.
From a 2-inch round dowel, cut 4 feet (B). Using wood glue and a 2-in-long screw to secure each foot (Photo 1). Position the feet as close as possible to the front, back, and sides in the recess under the bottom panel of the cabinet.
Cut a 3/4-inch square dowel for the cleats (C). Use wood glue and screws to secure them to the divider and the inside walls of the cabinet. For perfect spacing every time, cut two scraps to the cleat mounting height, position the scraps in the cabinet and rest cleat on top. Now attach each cleat in the perfect position every time. (Photo 2).
Cut the two shelves (D) from a 1 x 10; cut the shelf edging (E) from a 1 x 2. Set the shelves in the cabinet on the cleats -- you'll notice these shelves are a little short like the divider; this is for easy insertion into the cabinet. (Do not glue them in position; they'll be easier to paint later if you remove them.) While the shelves are in place, drill pilot holes and attach the shelf edging (E) with screws. Mark the shelf edging that goes with each shelf and remove them.
Cut the tool holders (F) to length and drill five 1/2-inch holes 3/8-in deepon both boards. Now cut ten 1/2-inch round dowels to 1-3/8-inch long and glue into the holes. When the glue dries, temporarily secure the holders in position with screws.
Many times instructions direct you to attach parts and then remove them. That's because the parts are easier to paint or finish if they're loose. If you tried to attach them later -- marking for position and drilling pilot holes and screws - you may damage the finish. In the end, this saves time and makes for a better result.
Retrieve the top (G) you cut earlier. Mark out the locations of the burners, the holes for the knobs, and the sink cutout (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). Drill 3/8-inch holes near the corners of the sink opening to slip in the blade of a jigsaw. Cut the sink opening (Photo 3).
Cut the backsplash (H) from a 2 x 4 the same length as the top (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram). Sand the board and apply to the back of the top using glue and screws.
Use a clean-cut jigsaw blade and move the saw slowly -- this top is thick and the faster you move the saw, the more the blade may flex. A slow, steady cut is a straight cut.
Center the top and align the back of the backsplash even with the back of the cabinet (Project Diagram, Drawing 3) and then temporarily clamp the top to the cabinet.
Cut the sink front/back (I) and sink ends (J) to length and insert into the opening. Cut the parts so they fit with just slight pressure (the cuts from the jigsaw will cause these dimensions to vary slightly); test-fit the parts until all four parts are in place (Photo 4). Once the four parts fit into the opening, remove them and apply glue to the ends of the sink parts and to the inside of the sink opening (do not glue them to the top of the cabinet as you insert the parts).
Cut the door (K) to size, and mark out the positions of the knob and handle holes and the opening for the acrylic. Drill clearance holes for a jigsaw blade, cut the opening in the door, and sand the opening smooth.
Cut the 3/4-inch square dowels to length for the short handle (L) and the long handle (M). The short handle will be mounted to the door you just made (K). The long handle will be mounted to the existing door. Use painter's tape to secure the handles to the doors so they are centered vertically in the middle of the vertical part of the door.
From the backside of the door, drill a 1/2-inch hole 1-1/8 inches deep through the door into the handle. Mark your drill bit with painter's tape 1-1/8 inches from the end of the bit, and then drill the holes -- drilling though the door into the handle aligns both parts. Now remove the handles and tape.
Cut four 1/2-inch round dowels 1-11/16 inches long. Glue the dowels into the holes in the handles (Project Diagram, Drawing 4). When the glue dries, set the handles aside.
Cut the eight 1-inch-long sections of 1-1/2-inch diameter dowel for the knobs (N). Drill 1/2-inch holes 1/2 inch deep, centered in the back face of the knobs (Project Diagram, Drawing 5).
Small pieces of wood can be tricky and dangerous to drill if you try to hold the piece of wood in your hand. Use a clamp to secure the pieces, and add a second clamp to keep the part from moving on your workbench. This will keep your hands clear so you can focus on drilling accurately (Photo 5).
You will need to cut a variety of 1/2-inch dowel lengths to mount the knobs in different locations (Project Diagram, Drawings 5 & 9). For the two faucet knobs, you'll need two 2-inch-long dowels; for the four stovetop knobs and the faucet dowel, you'll need 1-11/16-inch-long dowels; and for the oven knobs, you'll need 1-1/4-inch knobs. After cutting and sanding the parts, glue the dowel pieces into the knobs.
Slip the dowels into the holes in the countertop (G), backsplash (H), and oven door (K). Drill a pilot hole in the 1/2-inch dowels and secure using a fender washer and a #6 x 3/4-inch roundhead wood screw at each location (Photo 6). Now remove the knobs for painting.
Cut a 1-1/2-inch dowel to length for the faucet riser (O) (Project Diagram, Drawing 6) (note the top of the riser is cut at a 20-degree angle). Now cut a 3/4-inch square dowel to length for the faucet arm (P). Drill 1/2-inch holes on the bottom of the riser and on the arm. Cut two sections of 1/2-inch dowel to length -- the faucet tip is 3/4 inch long, and the mounting dowel is 1-11/16 inches long. Sand the parts and glue assembly together.
When using super glue for woodworking projects, use one labeled with the word "gel." This thicker material is not quickly absorbed, so it lays on the wood surface and creates a strong bond.
Cut 1/4-inch square dowel for the burners (Q) and oven bars (R) (Project Diagram, Drawing 7 and 8). Mark out the cross burner locations on the bottom rails of the burners, and then assemble using a gel super glue (Photo 7).
Remove any hardware and go over all the corners of the project with 150-grit sandpaper (soft edges are safer for the kids). Coat all of the components with aerosol primer and lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper.
After priming, the knobs require a bit of painter's tape to mask off the areas that are to remain white (Project Diagram, Drawing 8). Place tape on the top of the knobs and cut the pattern with a utility knife. Now apply the paint (Photo 8). The burner assemblies, stove top knobs, and oven knobs are black. The faucet handles can be sprayed red for hot and blue for cold.
For the remainder of the oven assembly, refer to the Final Assembly drawing (Project Diagram, Drawing 9). After applying two coats on all surfaces, allow the paint to dry.
Re-install the knobs and install the faucet. Using gel super glue, slip the shelves (D) in place, add the shelf edging (E), the countertop assembly, the tool holders, knobs, and left door. After installing the shelf edges, fill the screw holes with wood filler. Allow the filler to dry, and then touch up the holes with red paint.
Remove the reflective discs from the driveway markers and secure the discs and burners to the top using gel super glue.
Add a self-stick magnet to the inside of the door and to the shelf edging. Drill pilot holes near the corner of the acrylic and secure to the door using #6 x 1/2-inch roundhead wood screws (Photo 9).
Secure the door to the cabinet, centering it over the oven opening (Photo 10).