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Copper Art Stand

Display your artwork on a copper stand that can be attached to a new or existing frame.

Framed art on a copper stand.

Project Overview

Skill Level


Estimated Time

A few hours

Estimated Cost


Tools & Materials


  • Pipe cutter
  • Drill and 5/8-in bit
  • Handsaw
  • Awl
  • Tape measure or ruler
  • 120-grit sandpaper
  • Acetone (optional)


  • 5/8-in x 36-in oak dowel, #19421
  • 1/2-in x 24-in copper pipe, #2037
  • 4 - 1/2-in copper pipe caps, #21728
  • 4 - 1/2-in copper slip tee fittings, #21660
  • Frame of your choice with a 3/4-in minimum edge thickness

Items may be Special Order in some stores. Product costs, availability, and item numbers may vary online or by market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market for lumber species and sizes.

Missing anything? Shop Online


This stand can be attached to any wooden frame with an edge at least 3/4 inch thick. If you don’t have an existing frame, one option would be a white 9-in x 11-in shadowbox frame (#543583).

Step 1

Cutting copper pipe

From the 1/2-inch pipe, cut two pieces 3-1/8 inches long. From the 5/8-inch dowel, cut six pieces 3/4 inch long.

Good to Know

You can remove the markings, paper labels, and surface dirt from the copper pipe and fittings using acetone in a well-ventilated area while wearing chemical-resistant gloves, breathing protection, and eye protection.

Step 2

Inside each fitting that will be glued to a dowel, lightly sand the copper to roughen the surface and then it wipe clean. On two of the tees, glue and insert the dowels halfway into each of the three openings. Then glue caps to the two plugs in line with each other and let dry.

Step 3

Glue and insert the remaining plug of a capped tee into the in-line opening on a third tee. The middle opening of the tee without caps should be 90 degrees to the other capped tee. Repeat for the other pair of tees for the second foot assembly and let dry.

Step 4

Glue and insert a 3-1/8-inch piece of pipe into the top opening of the foot assembly. Repeat for the second assembly.

Step 5

Cut a piece of 1/2-inch pipe about 2 inches shorter than the frame side where you’ll install the stand. Glue and insert one end of the long pipe into a tee of a foot assembly and let dry. Test the fit of the assembled base on the frame before gluing the other foot assembly to the cross piece. Then glue and assemble the base with the frame in place -- all four caps should rest evenly on a flat surface -- and let dry.

Step 6

Mark leg locations on the frame.

Center the top of the stand along one edge of the frame and mark the pipe locations. Measure in 1/4 inch from those marks to find the hole locations. Drill 5/8-inch holes 90 degrees to the surface at each mark without breaking through the inside edge of the frame. Holes need to be at least 1/8 inch deep.

Good to Know

A twist drill bit or Forstner bit works best for this step. The center spur of a spade bit will break through the inside edge of the frame. For the best results, use a drill press or drilling guide.

Step 7

(Optional) To create an artificial patina, mix a strong solution of trisodium phosphate (TSP) according to the label directions. While wearing rubber gloves and eye protection, use the scrubbing face of a sponge to clean the copper until water stops beading on the surface. Rinse with clean water and let dry. Mix 4 ounces of white vinegar and 3 tablespoons of Miracle-Gro crystals in a 32-ounce spray bottle and fill with water. Spray the copper and let dry. Repeat as needed until you reach the effect you want.

Step 8

If you want a shiny finish on the metal, use polish to remove the surface tarnish on the pipes and fittings. Protect either a shiny or aged finish by spraying several coats of clear lacquer on the metal.

Step 9

A copper pipe stand built into this frame helps raise framed art above a tabletop or mantel. --Lowe’s Creative Ideas

Glue and insert the upper legs of the stand into the holes of the frame and let cure.