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Platform Bed with Storage

Brought to you by Lowe's Creative Ideas

Reimagine a standard platform bed with storage and style. Simple materials and easy-to-follow instructions make this bed a great DIY project.

Platform bed with storage.

Project Overview

Skill Level

Intermediate

Estimated Time

1-2 weeks

Estimated Cost

$$$$$$

Tools & Materials

Tools

  • Circular saw
  • Miter saw
  • Pocket-hole jig
  • Cordless drill and driver bits
  • Countersink drill bit
  • 3/16-in, 3/8-in, and 1/2-in drill bits
  • Orbital sander with 100-grit and 150-grit sanding discs
  • Wrenches
  • Carpenter’s square
  • Fine-grit sanding sponge

Materials

  • See Project Diagram for materials needed
  • 3 - 1-in x 1-in 36-in square poplar dowel
  • 8 - 1/2-in x 4-in carriage bolts
  • 8 - 1/2-in flat washers
  • 8 - 1/2-in lock washers
  • 8 - 1/2-in hex nuts
  • 16 - 3/8-in x 3-1/2-in carriage bolts
  • 16 - 3/8-in x 1/2-in x 1-in spacer bushings
  • 32 - 3/8-in fender washers
  • 16 - 3/8-in flat washers
  • 16 - 3/8-in lock washers
  • 16 - 3/8-in hex nuts
  • #8 x 1-1/4-in flathead sheet-metal screws
  • #8 x 1-1/2-in flathead sheet-metal screws
  • #8 x 2-in panhead sheet-metal screws
  • #8 x 2-1/2-in panhead sheet-metal screws
  • 1-1/2-in pocket-hole screws
  • #10 x 1-in panhead sheet-metal screws
  • 2 - 1-1/2-in x 1-1/2-in 1/8-in x 72-in steel angle
  • 16 - 6-in lawn mower wheels, #543178
  • Minwax wood stain, Classic Gray 271
  • HGTV Home by Sherwin-Williams interior flat latex paint and primer, white

Items may be Special Order in some stores. Product costs, availability, and item numbers may vary online or by market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market for lumber species and sizes.

Missing anything? Shop Online

Project Resources

Instructions

Download plans for the size of box spring and mattress you will be using. Then decide if you want to build the storage drawers. Choose stain and paint colors to fit your decor.

Build the Footboard

Step 1

Cut the 2 x 6 material to length for the footboard top (A) and footboard legs (B) (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram). Sand the parts with 100-grit and 150-grit sandpaper, including the factory edges and cut edges, to create a uniform appearance.

Good to Know

Construction lumber comes with edges that have been rounded over, unlike the edges you cut. These edges need to be rounded over by sanding or with a router to match the factory edges.

Step 2

Drill evenly spaced pocket holes to assemble the footboard.

Drill three pocket holes on each end of the bottom face of the footboard top (Project Diagram, Drawing 1).

Step 3

Secure the top to the legs using glue and pocket-hole screws.

Apply glue to the ends of the top, place the legs (B) against the ends, and secure with pocket-hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the six slats (C) to length from 1 x 8 pine boards and sand them with 150-grit sandpaper. Drill three evenly spaced pocket holes at both ends of each board. On each leg, drill the 1/2-inch holes to mount the side rails (Project Diagram, Drawing 1).

Step 5

Secure the slats to the legs; do not apply glue to these parts.

Lay the assembled footboard top and legs facedown on a workbench. Place 1-inch-thick spacers on the bench and rest the slats on the spacers between the legs. The top edge of the slat should rest against the footboard top (A), and there should be a 1/2-inch gap between the slats. Drive pocket-hole screws through the slats into the legs.

Good to Know

Do not apply glue to the slats when installing them; these will be removed later to make finishing the parts easier. Even if you paint or stain the parts all one color, it will be easier to achieve a nice finish if these parts are removed. Re-assemble after the finish dries.

Step 6

Cut the rails supports (D) from a 1 x 4 and the footboard cleats (E) from a 2 x 2 (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram). Sand the parts with 150-grit sandpaper.

Step 7

Secure the rail supports to the legs using glue and screws.

Place the rail supports on the inside faces of the legs (B) against the slats (C). The bottom of the supports should be even with the bottom of the legs (B) (Project Diagram, Drawing 1). Drill pilot holes and secure the supports to the legs using glue and screws.  Avoid getting glue on the slats as you install the supports.

Step 8

Secure the cleats to the slats with glue and screws.

Drill a pocket hole, centered on the top end of the footboard cleat (E) -- the twin/full-size beds have one cleat; the queen/king-size beds use two. Glue and screw the cleats to the slats and drive a pocket-hole screw through the cleat into the footboard top.

Assemble the Headboard

Step 1

Assembling the headboard mimics the footboard in most aspects. The difference is the height, number of slats, and an angled cut on the front face of the legs/top (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). The angle cuts can be omitted if you prefer a straight look.

Cut the 2 x 6 material to length for the headboard top (F) and headboard legs (G) (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram). Sand the material with 100-grit and 150-grit sandpaper.

Step 2

Mark the taper cut at the top front edge of the legs (Project Diagram, Drawing 2A). Clamp the leg to a workbench and make the angled cut using a circular saw. Take your time when making the cut – don’t rush it. Repeat for the other leg and make sure the angles are identical.

Step 3

To sand the cut edge and remove any irregularity of the cut surface, wrap 100-grit sandpaper around a straight scrap of wood to flatten the cut surface.

Step 4

Transfer the angle cut on the legs to the board used for the headboard top.

Place the headboard top (F) against the top inside face of the headboard legs (G). With a pencil, transfer the angle from the leg to the end of the headboard top. Clamp the top board to your workbench, tilt the base of the circular saw to about 5 degrees to match the angle of the cut and trim the top to width. Sand all of the surfaces and corners with 100-grit and 150-grit sandpaper.

Step 5

Drill two pocket holes on each end of the bottom face of the headboard top (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). Apply glue to the ends of the top, position the legs against the ends of the top, and secure with pocket-hole screws. On each leg, drill the 1/2-inch holes for mounting the side rails (Project Diagrams, Drawing 1, Drawing 2, and Drawing 2a).

Step 6

Retrieve the four remaining slats (C), sand them, and drill three evenly spaced pocket holes along each end. Sand with 150-grit sandpaper.

Step 7

Lay the assembled headboard top and legs with the angled face down on a workbench. Place 1-inch-thick spacers on the bench, and rest three slats on the spacers between the legs. The top edge of the uppermost slat should be 1/2 inch from the headboard top (F), and there should be a 1/2-inch gap between the remaining slats. Drive pocket-hole screws through the slats into the legs.

Step 8

Clamp the lower portion of the legs flat on the bench -- this will raise the slats and the angled portion of the headboard off the bench. Position the 1-inch-thick spacers and add the remaining slat. Secure the slat with pocket-hole screws so the bottom slat is 1/2 inch away from the lowest angled slat.

Step 9

Cut the headboard cleats (H) from a 2 x 2 (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram), and sand it with 150-grit sandpaper. Drill a pocket hole centered on the top end of each cleat. Glue and screw the cleats to the slats and drive a pocket-hole screw through the top of the cleats into the headboard top (Project Diagram, Drawing 2).

Step 10

Retrieve the the rail supports (D) and install them on the inside faces of the legs (G) (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). The bottom of the supports should be even with the bottom and back edges of the legs. Drill pilot holes and secure the supports to the legs using glue and screws.

Add the Bed Rails

Step 1

Cut the side rails (I) from 2 x 8 boards and sand smooth (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram). Stand the footboard and headboard on the floor, and clamp the side rails to the foot and headboard so the side rails rest on the rail supports (D) (Project Diagram, Drawing 3).

Step 2

Adjust the location of the side rails -- the footboard end of the rail should slide into the footboard so the side rail meets the inside face of the slats (C). On the headboard end, the side rails should be even with the back edge of the headboard legs (G).

Step 3

Using the holes in the headboard legs (G) and footboard legs (B) as a guide, extend the holes through the side rails (I) using a drill and a 1/2-inch bit.

Step 4

Drill the holes through the side rails with a 1/2-inch drill bit.

Push a 1/2-inch carriage bolt through the outside face of the legs adding a flat washer, lock washer, and hex nut to the inside of the inside face of the bed rails. Tighten the nut until the head of the carriage bolt sits flat against the leg.

Step 5

Mark the hole locations on the bed angles (J) (Project Diagram, Drawing 4). Note that the hole locations are specific to the left and right side of the bed. Then mark the holes on the second angle to create a mirrored pattern. If you are not going to include the under-bed storage, omit the holes on the horizontal leg of the angle. Instead, drill only the holes that are spaced at 10-inch centers. Use a 3/16-inch drill bit to drill the clearance holes for driving the screws later.

Step 6

Clamp the bed angles to the side rails and secure with screws.

Using clamps and scrap material, position the bed angle against the inside face of the side rails with the bottom edges even (Project Diagram, Drawing 4). The end of the angle should be 2-1/4 inches from the footboard end of the side rails -- this should just clear the washer used to secure the side rails to the leg. Screw the angles to the side rails.

Good to Know

If the washer securing the rails to the legs interferes with the location of the angle, shift the angle farther away from the footboard as needed. There is enough space to adjust the connections to the drawer guides (K).

Step 7

Clamp and screw the drawer guides to the bottom of the bed angles.

If you are not building the under-bed storage drawers, skip this step. Cut three 2 x 4s for the drawer guides (K) to the same length as the distance between the side rails (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram). The length will be different for each size bed. Clamp the drawer guides to the underside of the bed angles (Project Diagram, Drawing 5). The ends of the guides fit even with the inside face of the side rails (I). Drive screws through the holes in the bed angles.

Step 8

For a king-size bed, you will need to cut pieces of 2 x 4 for the optional drawer support braces (Q) and secure them to the center of the drawer guides with screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 5A).

Step 9

For beds without the under-bed storage, you will need bed slats to hold the box spring. Cut the four optional slats (R) to length. These slats will rest on the bed angles and do not need to be fastened (Project Diagram, Drawing 8). If you are building the king-size bed, add a slat support (S) at the mid-point of each slat.

Good to Know

The box springs sold today for twin, full, and queen-size mattresses are capable of spanning the side rails on a bed. Bed slats allow the frame to accept box springs of varying widths. If a mattress is too narrow and there are no slats, the box spring could fall between the angles. For a king-size bed with two-piece box springs, slats or drawer guides are needed for support.

Make Optional Drawers

Step 1

Secure the plywood bottom to the drawer sides of the storage drawers.

Cut the drawer bottoms (L) from 3/8-inch-thick plywood and the drawer sides (M) and drawer fronts/backs (N) from 1 x 6s (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram) and sand all of the parts with 150-grit sandpaper. Glue and screw the sides to the fronts and backs, then glue and screw the bottoms to the drawer frames (Project Diagram, Drawing 6).

Good to Know

For the twin, full, and queen-size beds, the drawers are the same sizes. For the twin and full, make two drawers. For the queen and king-size bed, make four drawers.

Step 2

With the drawer on bushings, mark the center of the bolt hole.

Draw a line 1 inch from the front and back of the drawer, and place the drawer box on two 3/4-inch-thick spacers. Clamp a wheel to the drawer where the wheel aligns with the 1-inch mark.

Step 3

Slide the bushing in the hole of the wheel and mark the center point of the hole in the drawer sides by pushing a 3/8-inch drill bit into the bushing and twisting the bit by hand to mark the hole location. Repeat for the four wheel locations on each drawer. Remove the clamp and wheel, and drill the hole, using the center point as a guide.

Step 4

For each wheel, slip a 3/8-inch carriage bolt through the bushing in each wheel, add a bushing and two fender washers, and slip the bolt through the drawer side (Project Diagram, Drawing 6). Add a washer, lock washer, and a hex nut to secure the wheel on the inside face the drawer.

Step 5

Cut the drawer faces (O), the drawer front filler (P) and, depending on the bed size,  the long drawer filler (T) to length from 1 x 8 material. Sand with 150-grit sandpaper (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram and Drawing 7).

Step 6

Place a spacer under the drawer face, and it is ready to be secured to the drawer.

Place a drawer face on a 1/2-inch-thick spacer and centered on the width of the drawer. Secure by drilling pilot holes and driving the screws from the inside of the drawer into the back surface of the drawer face (Project Diagram, Drawing 4).

Step 7

As you complete the assembly of each drawer, slide the completed drawers under the bed between the drawer guides (Project Diagram, Drawing 7).

Step 8

Screw the drawer face to the headboard leg.

Retrieve the drawer front filler(s) (P) and the optional long drawer filler (T). Place the drawer front filler on a 1/2 inch spacer resting on the floor and use a 1/2 inch spacer to create a gap between the end of the drawer face and the end of the  filler. Glue and screw the filler to the rail supports (D) on the headboard legs (G) (Project Diagram, Drawing 3 and Drawing 7).

Step 9

For the long filler (T) used on the twin and full-size beds, secure the filler to the rail supports (D) using screws with no glue. (This part hides the back of the drawers.) To support the board at the mid-point of the bed, add 2 x 4 cleats (U) to the bed angles (J), and drive screws through the supports into the backs of the long fillers.

Apply a Finish

Step 1

Partially disassembling the bed makes it easier to get into all the spaces and finish the project.

Step 2

Slide out the drawers, remove the faces, and mark which face goes with which drawer. Stain these to match the side rails. Wheels can be left on the drawer box, which will remain unfinished.

Step 3

Remove the drawer guides and set them aside -- no finish is needed. Remove the side rails (I) from the headboard and footboard.

Step 4

Remove the slats from the headboard and footboard if you plan to stain or paint the surfaces a different color from the rest of the bed.

Step 5

Finish the headboard and footboard top and legs (white paint shown). For the slats (C), footboard cleats (D), side rails (I), drawer faces (O), drawer front fillers (P), and optional long drawer filler (T), apply two coats of stain (Classic Gray shown). Apply satin polyurethane to the stained areas, sanding between coats with a fine-grit sanding sponge.

Step 6

When the finish has dried, reinstall the slats on the headboard and footboard.

Step 7

Move the bed components where you’ll set up the bed. You may need to adjust the height/width of the drawer faces (O) depending on your floor covering. For a very plush carpet, the top edge of the drawer face might need to be trimmed so that it doesn’t bump into the side rails (I) as the drawer is closed.

Step 8

Stretch your bedroom storage by building a custom-finish platform bed frame with roll-out drawers. --Lowe’s Creative Ideas

To add optional drawer pulls, center a handle on each drawer face.