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Assemble natural-finish bamboo flooring into a herringbone pattern for a clean-lined headboard.
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From a 4x8 sheet of 1/2-inch particleboard, cut a headboard back measuring 57-1/2 x 37-3/4 inches. If you need help with this, ask a Lowe's associate to cut the headboard panel to size in the store. From the remaining panel, cut a template that measures 12-5/8 x 30-3/4 inches. Take special care to make the long edges parallel with each other.
Use your tape measure and straightedge to mark lines 3-1/2 inches in from each edge of the headboard back. In the space between the pencil lines, draw three equally spaced lines between the long edges (top and bottom) of the headboard back to divide the space into four equal parts. Then, set the headboard aside while you work on the herringbone panels.
Cut bamboo flooring strips to the following quantities and lengths: four at 6-7/8 inches, four at 14-1/2 inches, four at 20-3/8 inches, 12 at 22-5/8 inches, four at 18-7/8 inches, four at 11-3/8 inches, and four at 4 inches. Working on a flat surface, follow the diagrams with the insets shown to assemble the pieces into pairs of both sets shown. Tape along the seams to hold the strips together.
Mark an "X" at diagonally opposite corners on both sides of the template as shown in the diagram. Then, on tape, draw orientation marks on the assembly of flooring strips where shown.
For the mitered ends of the strips to line up correctly between panels, position the template the same way on each set of strips. Clamp the template and flooring strips to a work surface to keep the template from shifting out of position. Slide the edge of your utility knife blade along the edges of the template as you score the flooring strips deep enough to penetrate the surface finish. Repeat this for both pairs of taped strips.
Working with one set of strips at a time, turn them upside down and number the strips 1 - 9 on the back near the center. Flip them back over again and remove the tape, but avoid mixing the sets. Set your mitersaw to cut a 45-degree angle and position each strip so that the blade cuts on the waste side of your knife mark. Reset the saw for the opposite 45-degree angle and make the second set of cuts, again on the waste side of the line. On the top and bottom strips, place the mitered edge against the fence to make 90-degree cuts. Repeat for each set of strips.
Lay out the sets of strips inside the four sections marked on the headboard back to confirm the fit. Cut or sand as needed until the mitered ends meet without gaps. Cut two lengths of select pine 1x4s to 57-1/2 inches and another two at 37-3/4 inches. Stack the two longer ones and cut 45-degree miters on each end, keeping them as long as possible. Repeat for the two shorter sections. Test-fit the frame pieces around the flooring strips and trim them to the correct length for tight corners. The outside edges of the frame pieces and the headboard back should be flush. Remove the groups of strips in order and set them aside.
Glue and clamp the frame to the headboard back. For added strength, drill 3/32-inch screw holes through the headboard back and into the frame.
Apply a piece of tape to the drill bit about 7/8-inch from the tip to indicate when you have drilled deep enough. Stop drilling when the tape just touches the surface of the particleboard. Drive 1-inch inch screws.
Use wood filler to seal cracks at the mitered frame corners and sand smooth after the filler dries. Wipe the surface clean and prime the frame and particleboard edges. Lightly sand the primer smooth and then apply two coats of black spray paint.
Cut the flooring adhesive caulking tube end to leave a fine bead and apply adhesive in a zigzag pattern to each piece of flooring before pressing it in place where marked on the headboard back. Allow the adhesive to dry overnight.
Screw the hanging hardware to the back of the headboard and your wall using the manufacturer's instructions. Use wall anchors where needed. Place a clear bumper on each bottom corner and mount the headboard on your wall.