Reasons to Relocate a Tree or Shrub

Transplanting mature trees and shrubs is possible, although the process isn't as simple as planting new ones. There are several reasons to relocate an established landscape plant. Among them are:

Home additions or hardscaping projects requiring plants to be moved
Relocating to a new house where you'd like to move a favorite tree or shrub
Foundation plants outgrowing their current space and needing a new home

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Assess the Transplanting Project

First, decide if you can handle the job after learning how to move a tree. It isn't easy. The project requires root pruning during the season before tree transplanting, digging up the plant to be moved, digging a new planting hole, moving a heavy plant with the root ball attached, positioning the plant and refilling both holes. Providing plant care after the transplant is critical as well. Don't consider transplanting if you won't be able to provide water for the plant for at least the first year after transplanting.

Make sure the tree or shrub is a manageable size. Shrubs up to 3 feet tall and trees an inch or less in diameter (measured 6 inches above the soil level) can be moved without digging a solid root ball. These and most plants three to four years old may be moved as bare-root transplants. Larger or older plants will need to be dug and transplanted with the root ball intact.

For a transplant to be successful, you must include as much of the plant's root system as is reasonably possible. In general, you'll need at least 10 to 12 inches of root ball diameter for every inch of trunk diameter.

Example: If a tree trunk is 3 inches in diameter, you'll need a root ball that's 30 to 36 inches in diameter.

The depth of the root ball also increases proportionally. Include as many of the lateral roots as possible. Since these roots are near the soil line, a root ball that's generally 12 to 24 inches deep will include those roots.

A root ball with soil and a plant attached will weigh about 100 pounds per square foot, so have the necessary machinery or a cart available to move it. The bigger the tree, the less likely you'll have a successful transplant.

Fall, late winter or early spring is the best time to transplant trees. The move should be done after leaves fall in the autumn or before the new buds break in the spring. If you're in doubt as to what is the best time to transplant in your area, your local cooperative extension office is a valuable resource.

Good to Know

Very large landscape plantings can be moved with a truck-mounted hydraulic tree spade. Depending on the size of the machine, trees up to 50 feet tall can be successfully transplanted. You'll need to find a professional to do this for you.

Evaluate the Location and the Plant

Transplanting is stressful for trees and shrubs. Make sure your plants are up to the task.

If the plant is doing well in its current spot, find a new location with similar environmental characteristics. Plant it as it was originally growing — facing the same direction and receiving the same amount of sunlight daily. Mark a branch with a ribbon or string to help you properly reorient the plant to face north, south, east or west.

A plant that isn't healthy may not survive a transplant. If you still want to move the plant, determine the problem, treat it and postpone the move until the plant is healthy. If the plant isn't doing well, there are several possible reasons:

Pests or Disease: If the tree or shrub is damaged or seriously affected by either of these, it may be best to replace it rather than transplant.

Sunlight Requirements: If the problem is the environment (too much or too little sun), determine how much average daily sun exposure the new location receives.

Soil Type: Poor growth may be a result of the soil and moving the plant may not remedy the situation. Perform a soil test to determine whether the plant is suitable for your existing soil conditions. Adjust the soil pH to better fit the plant, or find a new plant that'll thrive in your soil.

Here are some other plant relocation considerations:

Trees with long vertical taproots — like walnut, pecan and some oaks and pines — are difficult to transplant.
Many trees that grow in sandy soils may have longer taproots and wider lateral root systems than landscape plants growing in more clay-based soil. This requires more digging before transplanting.
Moving native plants from wooded areas to the lawn may sound good but the success rate is low. Find nursery-grown natives to install in the landscape.
Deciduous plants usually transplant better than conifers. Shrubs normally relocate better than trees.
If plants are being moved because of a space issue, don’t repeat the same mistake. Allow for plenty of room in the new location.
The spot you transplant from will still have approximately 75% of the moved plant's root system left in the ground. Expect some extra work to prepare this area for new landscape design, plantings or turfgrass.
Check right of way, overhead and underground utilities and property lines before digging.

Caution

Before beginning any excavation, call 811 to check for underground utilities.

Prune the Roots Before Transplanting

A diagram showing tree roots extending out from a tree.

Water and nutrients are absorbed by tree roots, but the large roots nearest the tree trunk absorb very little. Tiny feeder roots that extend well beyond the tree perform most of that function. Root pruning stimulates small, new feeder roots nearest to the trunk. These new roots will be dug up as part of the root ball for transplanting. Root pruning is a familiar practice for bonsai growers, but it's also essential when transplanting mature plants.

A tree or shrub to be transplanted in fall should be root-pruned in the spring before new buds appear. Plants to be transplanted in spring should be root-pruned the previous fall after the leaves drop.

Instructions

How to Transplant a Tree

When transplanting time arrives, the basic steps are the same as root pruning, with a few key differences.

Before cutting the root ball completely, place a tarp or sheet of burlap into the hole beside the ball. Dig under the ball and cut any last remaining roots below. Tilt the root ball over onto the tarp for wrapping and moving.

Always lift the plant from underneath, never by the trunk.
Roots must be kept moist or they'll die. Any plant that can't be installed in its new location immediately after digging should be kept in the shade and the roots kept moist.
If you're transporting large plants to a new location on the highway, don't carry them in an open vehicle. Use an enclosed truck or van or cover the plant. Keep the roots moist by wrapping them in wet newspaper or burlap.

Good to Know

A tarp works well to move a transplant to another section of the lawn. If the plant is to be moved a further distance or stored for any length of time, use burlap. Burlap breathes and is porous, allowing the root ball to be watered while you're waiting for final planting. It also keeps the soil intact.

Transplanting Palm Trees

Palm trees can be an exception to most of the rules above. New root growth generates from the trunk rather than the ends of long lateral roots as in other trees. For this reason, a large palm tree can be transplanted with a small root ball. Because of this lack of a large root ball, support bracing is required after transplant.

Generally, mature palms transplant better than young ones. Palms also prefer to be transplanted when the temperatures are warm. These facts aren't true of all palms so consult an arborist or your local cooperative extension before undertaking this transplant.

Care for Trees and Shrubs After Transplanting

The hard work is done; it's time for a few finishing touches and a couple of reminders.

Watering after transplanting is essential but there's no exact formula for how much and when. Factors such as soil texture, temperature, winds and the size of the tree itself make water quantity a moving target. To prevent root rot, keep the roots moist but not soggy. If there's no natural rainfall, plan on a deep watering every 12 to 14 days.
Add a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch (no deeper) around the base of the new transplant to help retain moisture and moderate soil temperature that'll promote root growth. Keep the mulch pulled a couple of inches away from the trunk.
Staking is recommended for larger trees. Use three stakes and make sure that the line or rope doesn't cut into the tree bark. Sliding the line through a section of garden hose makes a good cushion between the line and the bark. Also, make sure the stakes are driven into solid ground. Remove the stakes after one year.
Don't fertilize a newly transplanted tree or shrub. The stress to acclimate to a new site is enough; fertilizing will stimulate unwanted new growth. Wait one year before fertilizing a newly transplanted tree or shrub.
Expect a transplanted tree or shrub to take several years to fully recover from being moved. The plant may not bloom or produce new growth until it adjusts to its new home.