Cut down on outside drafts and reduce your heating and cooling bill by installing a pre-hung storm door.
Product costs, availability and item numbers may vary online or by market.
Missing anything? Shop Online
Measure the height and width of your door frame carefully before you visit the store. Make sure you have the information to find the correct size. See the illustration at right for more details.
A - Width
B - Width
C - Width
D - Height
Most storm door units can be adjusted slightly to fit into a door frame. The parameters for this adjustment vary by manufacturer. If your opening is too big for a standard door, you can install a Z-bar extender — a device that fills in the extra space between the door and frame. If you don't want to use a Z-bar, you can order custom doors, which can be made to fit almost any door opening.
Place your storm door on the sawhorses.
Decide which way you want your door to open.
The hinge-side Z-bar comes temporarily attached to the door with a few screws. If you don't need to change hinge sides, drill the remaining holes for the hinges and secure with slotted screws.
If you do need to switch sides, remove the hinge-side Z-bar, reinstall the screws, move the Z-bar to the other side of the door and put it into place.
Take an outside measurement of the opening height to accommodate the slope of your sill.
With the door in the closed position, place it in the opening and check the fit. Use the manufacturer's instructions to determine shimming requirements.
Mark and cut the hinge-side Z-bar at a slight slope to the outside.
With the door in the closed position, place it in the opening and push the hinge side of the door tightly against the jamb. Secure it with screws. The tighter you get it against the wood, the better.
Open the door and install two jamb screws at each hinge.
Put the drift cap (top Z-bar) in place, adjust for an even gap with the door and secure with screws.
Measure and cut the latch-side Z-bar just as you did with the hinge-side Z-bar.
Attach the latch-side Z-bar, leaving a 1/8-inch gap between it and the door.
Slide the bottom expander off the door.
Slide the plastic sweep through the expander channels. To make the sweep slide smoothly through the channels, apply a mild liquid soap to it.
Once you have the sweep in place, crimp the metal channels closed, then cut off the excess sweep.
Reattach the expander to the door.
Slide the expander down so it touches the entire length of the sill.
Install two screws to hold the expander firmly in place.
Depending on the style of the door you've chosen, hardware may differ. Use the template that came with your purchase to drill the latch holes. Keep your drill level and make sure the storm door latch doesn't interfere with the primary door hardware.
Use the detailed drawings in the instructions provided by the manufacturer to assemble the latch.
If you chose a door with a lock, install the deadbolt.
Attach the strike plate and shim if needed.
Make sure the door opens and closes freely. Adjust if necessary.
Fasten the door jamb bracket to the house door frame.
Slide the hold-open washer onto the rod.
Connect the closer to the jamb bracket with the short connecting pin.
With the long connecting pin, attach the door bracket to the front hole of the closer tube.
From inside your home, with the door in the closed position, level the closer and mark the location for the bracket. Fasten the door bracket to the door with 5/8-inch screws.
To slow the door's closing, adjust the bypass valve on the door's closure mechanism until it closes at a speed you like.
Mount the safety chain, if included with your door, to allow a 90-degree opening of the door.
Your old storm door may just need a simple tune-up to be good as new. Watch our DIY Basics video: How Do I Adjust My Storm Door?