| Why Test Soil? |
For a better lawn or garden, start with a soil test. Testing your soil
allows you to:
- Select
the right plants for your garden—A pH test, for example, determines
how acid/alkaline your soil is. You can then pick plants that will survive
and thrive in your soil conditions.
- Remedy
your soil problems by determining what key elements are missing from
your soil.
- Monitor
nutrients—Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium are all needed for
plant growth, color and blooming.
Soil test
kits are available at Lowe's garden centers. These kits allow you to get
an immediate analysis of your soil's pH.
Your local agricultural extension office will also test your soil sample
for pH and nutrient levels (usually for a small fee). Most offices provide
you with a sterile container for your sample and a form to answer questions
about your garden, where you live and the plants you wish to grow. The
soil analysis usually takes a few weeks to get back to you. The analysis
includes detailed results and suggested amendments specific to your region.
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| How to Test Soil |
You will need:
- Clean bucket
- Garden trowel
- Clean container
- Newspaper
Steps:
- Thoroughly
clean the tools you are using to collect the soil sample.
- In the
planting area, dig five holes 6-8" deep.
- Take a
1/2" slice along the side of a hole and place it in the bucket.
Repeat this process for all holes.
- Collect
samples from different areas that will be growing similar plants.
- Mix the
soil in the bucket. Spread the soil on a newspaper to dry out. Collect
a pint for your sample.
Helpful Hints:
The best time to test your soil is in the late fall or early spring. This
gives you the time to make adjustments before you plant your garden, since
soil corrections may take a few months to become effective.
Wet soil can give a false test reading. Be sure to take the sample when the soil
is fairly dry. You may want to check your soil more than once to verify
your results.
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| What do the results mean? |
|
Result
|
Correction
|
| High
pH |
Soils
with a high pH are alkaline. To lower pH, add sulfur into the soil
surrounding the existing plants or into new planting beds. |
| Low
pH |
A
low pH reading is an indication that your soil is too acidic. To correct
the problem, add lime to the soil and mix well. |
| Low nitrogen |
This is a common problem with soil. Use synthetic or natural, nitrogen-rich
fertilizers according to the rate suggested by the manufacturer. |
| High
nitrogen |
High
nitrogen levels are usually the result of soils that have been over-fertilized.
Water the soil well and stop adding fertilizer for several months.
|
| Low
phosphorus |
Mix
superphosphate or bone meal into your garden soil, making sure to
mix these amendments into the soil thoroughly. |
| High phosphorous |
This problem is usually caused by too much high-phosphate fertilizer. Do
not use phosphorous-rich fertilizer for two years, and grow an abundance
of plants to use up the excess. |
| Low
potassium |
Work
in potash or wood ashes. Avoid using wood ashes around acid-loving
plants because these are alkaline and may diminish the growth of the
plants. |
| High
potassium |
Add
nitrogen and phosphorous to help balance the soil, but do not add
potassium-rich fertilizers or soil amendments for two to three years.
|
| Poor
drainage |
Heavy
clay soil tends to drain poorly. Thoroughly mix in peat moss, compost
or other organic materials to help loosen the soil. |
| Too
much drainage |
Sandy
soil drains too quickly to hold necessary nutrients. Add organic materials
to remedy soil that drains too quickly, just as you would for poor
drainage conditions. |
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| Improving your soil's pH |
After you have received the results of your soil test, it is time to make
improvements. The figures below equal pounds of limestone needed per 1000
sq. ft.
| |
Sand |
Loam |
Clay |
| Present pH |
To 6.0 |
To 6.5 |
To 6.0 |
To 6.5 |
To 6.0 |
To 6.5 |
| 4.8 |
60 |
85 |
100 |
140 |
140 |
200 |
| 4.9 |
55 |
80 |
95 |
130 |
125 |
185 |
| 5.0 |
50 |
75 |
85 |
28 |
115 |
160 |
| 5.1 |
45 |
70 |
80 |
115 |
100 |
150 |
| 5.2 |
40 |
65 |
70 |
110 |
90 |
135 |
| 5.3 |
35 |
60 |
65 |
100 |
75 |
125 |
| 5.4 |
30 |
55 |
55 |
95 |
65 |
110 |
| 5.5 |
25 |
50 |
50 |
85 |
55 |
100 |
| 5.6 |
20 |
45 |
40 |
80 |
45 |
90 |
| 5.7 |
15 |
40 |
30 |
70 |
35 |
80 |
| 5.8 |
10 |
35 |
20 |
65 |
25 |
70 |
| 5.9 |
5 |
30 |
10 |
55 |
15 |
60 |
| 6.0 |
— |
25 |
— |
50 |
— |
50 |
| 6.1 |
— |
20 |
— |
40 |
— |
40 |
| 6.2 |
— |
15 |
— |
35 |
— |
30 |
| 6.3 |
— |
10 |
— |
25 |
— |
20 |
| 6.4 |
— |
5 |
— |
15 |
— |
— |
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| Improving Soil for New Soil Beds |
You will need:
- Rotary tiller
- Shovel
- Soil amendments or additives (as determined by your soil test results)
- Garden rake
- Water the garden area well a few days before tilling the soil.
- Run the tiller in rows as if you were mowing. If the first pass was very difficult,
make another along the same path.
- Spread
amendments over the tilled soil. If adding several amendments, put one
on top of the other in even layers.
- Using
the rotary tiller, blend the amendments into the soil to a depth of
6 - 8."
- Rake the surface level and then water it well to settle the soil.
|
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| Improving Soil for Existing Beds |
You will need:
- Amendments (as determined by your soil test results)
- Garden fork
- Steel rake
- Break up the soil about 2 - 3" deep around plants with the garden fork.
- Sprinkle the amendments and blend them evenly using the garden fork.
- Level the area by raking in one direction and then the opposite. Water well to soak.
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