Step 1: The Frame
Cut three pieces of 2" x 4" x 5'9" for joists. Cut two pieces of
2" x 4" x 33" for headers. Mark centers of headers. That
is where you will nail the center joist. Butt end nail headers to the
three joists, overlapping the joists at the ends. When this step is complete,
you should have a 6' by 33" rectangle with a joist down the center.
Step 2: The Posts
Cut three pieces of 2" x 4" x 34" for rear posts. Cut three pieces
of 5/4" x 6" x 34" for front posts. Using a circular saw,
cut a 3/4” deep notch 1 1/2" from one end of each 2"x 4".
Chisel out the waste to create a 1 1/2" x 3/4" notch on one
end of each rear post.
Step 3: Post Installation
Clamp the two outer rear posts to the rear corners of the frame. The bottom ends
should be flush with the bottom. The notch should be up and facing inward.
Using a framing square, make sure the posts are all perpendicular to the
frame. Using two 3 1/2" x 1/4" carriage bolts, nuts and washers,
fasten each 2" x 4" to the base.
Do the same to the two outer front posts, assembling them to the two front corners
of the frame. (There are no notches on these posts).
To install middle front and middle rear posts, mark the center of the front and rear
joists and the centers of the two remaining posts. Using two 3 1/2"
x 1/4" carriage bolts, nuts and washers, fasten the front middle
post to the center of the front joist, perpendicular to the base. Repeat
for middle rear post.
Step 4: The Floor
Cut twelve pieces of 2" x 6" x 34 1/2" for floorboards. Cut a 3 1/2"
x 1 1/2" notch in one corner of one floorboard. Starting on the left
side with the notched board fitted around the left rear post, line up
your floorboards widthwise across the base and flush with the front of
the frame. (The boards will overhang the back of the frame). Leave 1/8"
between boards. Notch the center floorboard to fit around the center rear
post. Since a 2" x 6" is actually 5 1/2" wide, you will
have a 3 5/8" gap after lining up the floorboards. Cut one piece
of 2" x 4" x 33". Lay this floorboard along the right side
between the front and rear posts. Using 8d galvanized nails, secure floorboards
to frame.
Step 5: The Back
Cut five pieces of 5/4" x 6" x 6' for back slats. Starting at the bottom
and spacing them 1/4" apart, secure back slats to rear posts with
2 1/2" galvanized #8 deck screws. The ends of the slats should be
flush with the sides of the rear posts.
Step 6: Front Door Side Runners
Cut three pieces of 2" x 2" x 29 1/2". Cut three pieces of 2"
x 4" x 27 1/4". For side runners, stand each 2" x 2"
upright behind each (5/4" x 6" x 34") front post, flush
with outer edge. Stand each 2" x 4" behind a 2" x 2",
again flush with the outer edge of the front post.
This forms a sandwich with a track in the middle (see illustration). Repeat for other
side. Clamp them together and drill two 1/4" holes through all three
boards, 6" from top and 10" from bottom. Join the three boards
with 4 1/2" x 1/4" carriage bolts, nuts and flat washers.
Step 7: Front Door Middle Runners
Mark centers of 5/4" x 6" middle post, 2" x 2" and 2" x 4".
Clamp the three boards together at the centers to form left and right
center channels. Drill 1/4" holes through the three boards six inches
from the top and bottom of the middle post assembly. Join them with two
4 1/2" x 1/4" carriage bolts, nuts and flat washers.
Step 8: Runner Top Rails
Cut three pieces of 2" x 4" x 32" for top rails of runner assemblies.
Set a top rail into the notch at the top of each rear post and across
to the top of each inner front post (2"x 4"). Using four #8
2 1/2" deck screws, join each of the top rails to the tops of the
front and rear posts.
Step 9: Front Door Slats
Cut ten pieces of 5/4" x 6" x 33 1/4". Screw two #6 1 1/4" deck screws
into the bottom edge of each of the ten boards (one on each side), leaving
about 1/4" of each screw protruding. Check that the slat's slide
easily in the runners. If they do not, your posts are not 100 percent
perpendicular to your joists. You should still be able to push your posts
slightly to adjust them. Using a framing square, make sure the posts are
perpendicular to the frame. Using 16d nails, nail them to the floorboards.
Step 10: Hardware Cloth Partitions
To complete the middle partition, cut one piece of 2" x 4" x 30" for
the middle bottom rail. Nail it to the central floorboard with 8d nails,
between the front and rear middle posts. Cut one 31 " x 34"
piece of 1/4" hardware cloth. Using 3/4" galvanized fencing
staples every four inches, secure hardware cloth to one side of the middle frame.
Cut two pieces of 36" x 33" x 1/4" hardware cloth. Fold one inch in from
each edge to eliminate jagged edges. Using 3/4" galvanized fencing
staples every four inches, secure hardware cloth to the right and left
sides of the compost system.
Step 11: Rear Rail
Cut one piece of 2" x 4" x 6' for top rear rail. Fasten to the top of the rear posts, using 16d nails.
Step 12: Lids
Cut four pieces of 2" x 2" x 32" for lid sides. Cut six pieces of
2" x 2" x 31 3/4" for lid cross-members. Mark the centers
of the four lid sides. Using 2 1/2" deck screws, fasten two lid sides
to two lid cross-members to form a square (see illustration). Secure third
cross-member to the centers of the two lid sides to reinforce the lids.
Further reinforce the lids by adding 2" x 5/8" corner irons
to insides of each of the corners see illustration below). Cut two pieces
of 36" x 33" x 1/4" hardware cloth. Fold one inch in from
each edge to eliminate jagged edges. Using fencing staples, secure hardware cloth to the tops of lids.
Step 13: Attaching Lids
Secure the lids to the top rear rail, using two 3 1/2" tee hinges per lid. Using
fencing staples, secure one 30" piece of #12 jack chain to the inside
edge of each lid and to the inside of each side rail at about the middle
of the rail. Complete the lids by fastening a 5" turning hasp to
the middle of each lid and the top front door slat (see assembly illustration - Steps 11 & 12).
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