Starting Seeds - Indoors or Out

Here's what you need:

• Something to plant in — Peat pots or planting trays are best, but cups, milk cartons and yogurt containers also work fine. Just make sure the container drains well and is large enough that it won't dry out between waterings.



• Growing medium — This is more than just a fancy name for dirt. A seed-starting potting mix is the best. Regular potting soil will suffice. Never use regular garden soil for any type of seed starting or containers.



• Seeds —There are lots to choose from. Check the growing time on the packet. You don't want the seeds to be ready to transplant too early or too late. For most plant varieties, plan on growing them 6 - 8 weeks indoors. Also check the packet to see if pre-soaking is recommended. Some seeds are recommended to be sown directly into the ground.



• A place to grow — Seeds need warmth in order to germinate. One method is to put the containers on top of a refrigerator. After they sprout, sufficient light is a critical need. A sunny windowsill works fine, as long as it isn't too hot.

Once you have all of the above accounted for, it's time to plant the seeds.

• Fill the tray with potting mixture. Pre-moisten the mix or peat pots as directed by the instructions on the package.



• Larger seeds can be planted individually into the tray or peat pot. Smaller seeds can be very difficult to see. Sprinkle 3 - 4 seeds over mixture in each pot. Press in or lightly cover seeds with potting mix. Do not cover them too deeply with soil.



• Cover the tray with plastic wrap. Place the tray in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. Make sure that your soil always remains warm and moist.



• When the seeds begin to sprout, take the plastic wrap off.



• Place the seedlings in a warm spot to grow. Turn the tray every two days to keep the plants growing straight — plants will always grow towards the sunlight.



• Thin or transplant the seedlings when they get 2" — 3" tall and have developed true leaves (usually after 2 - 3 weeks). Thinning is done by gently pulling up the young plant or pinching off the stem. Transplant them to slightly larger containers to allow root growth. Lift seedlings carefully by digging them out of the tray with a fork or spoon, taking care not to disturb the tender roots. Keep transplants out of direct sun for a couple of days to prevent wilting.



• Feed with a liquid soluble plant food diluted to half strength.



• Keep your soil moist but not soggy.

When the danger of frost has passed, transplant your seedlings into the garden, but they must first be "hardened off." Set the tray outdoors in shade for 2 - 3 hours. During the following week, set the plants out a little longer each day, slowly exposing them to full sunlight. After the week is over, transplant the seedlings into the garden. A cold frame is also an excellent tool for gardening and seed-starting.

• If you have chosen to sow seeds directly into the ground, wait until after all danger of frost has passed.



• Choose a spot that gets plenty of sunlight and where the soil drains well.



• Prepare the soil by raking the area clear of leaves and other debris. Dig the garden to loosen the soil down to about 12". Add any necessary fertilizer at this time.



• Make planting rows with a garden trowel. If you are planting flower seeds in groups rather than rows, Use a pointed object (a pencil will do) to make indentations in the soil.



• Plant the seeds according to the spacing directions on the back of the seed packet. Large seeds can be planted individually. Some seeds are quite small. These can be mixed with a bit of sand and sprinkled over the area. Do not cover them too deeply with soil.



• Attach the empty packet to a stick at the end of the row to identify what is planted there.



• Water the area with a gentle flow from a watering can or hose. Keep the garden moist (not wet), until the plants are up and growing. Supplement natural rainfall by providing water if needed.