| Tools & Materials |
| Tools
- Garage broom
- Stiff bristled brush
- Garden hose with spray nozzle
- Edger, square shovel or string trimmer
- Masonry chisel
- Mallet
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Materials
- Sharp tool such as an awl or hook
- Gloves
- Wide squeegee or application brush
- 6" length of 4 x 4 (for tamping)
- Driveway sealer
- Household detergent or a commercially available asphalt driveway cleaner
- Asphalt crack filler and cold patch
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| Tips on How and When to Seal Your Driveway |
- Do
seal any time the temperature is 50 degrees Fahrenheit and rising.
- Do
seal every two or three years, depending on the driveway's condition.
Coating too often can result in a slick surface.
- Do
allow 24 hours before using your newly-coated driveway. The driveway
will feel dry before it is ready for traffic, but resist the urge to
use it.
- Do
always follow the manufacturer's directions on the product container.
- Do
not seal when rain is expected within 36 hours.
- Do
not seal brand new blacktop. The driveway must cure for 6 months
in warm temperatures before sealing.
- Do
not apply driveway sealer to concrete.
- Do
not apply a thick coating. It will dry too slowly and can lead to
"mud-cracking," a condition that looks like sun-cracked mud
on the surface of the driveway.
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| Safety Considerations |
When working
with asphalt-based materials, observe the following safety guidelines:
- Avoid
prolonged skin contact.
- Avoid
excessive breathing of vapors.
- Wear old
clothes and protective gloves.
- Keep materials
away from high heat and open flames.
- Close
containers after each use.
- Always
follow the manufacturer's instructions.
- Wear safety
glasses when using a mallet and chisel.
Different
products are appropriate for potholes and cracks of different sizes. For
example, you may need one filler for cracks up to 1/4", and another
for cracks up to 1/2". Large cracks and potholes require yet another
filler compound, asphalt cold patch. Follow the recommendations given
by the manufacturer of the sealer you choose.
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| Repairing Cracks |
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- Use a
sharp object to remove loose material from cracks. A masonry chisel
and mallet can be used to remove stubborn chunks of broken asphalt.
- Cracks
must be cleaned well, first with a broom and then with water pressure
from a garden hose. For the patch to adhere properly, the crack must
be free of all foreign material. If oil is present in the crack, scrub
it with a stiff brush and detergent.
- Allow
the washed surfaces to dry.
- Cracks
in blacktop of less than 1/2" can be filled with products made
especially for the purpose. These fillers may come in cans or caulk-type
dispensers. Remember that different products are appropriate for cracks
of different sizes. For example, you may need one filler for cracks
up to 1/4" and another for cracks up to 1/2". Follow the recommendations
of the manufacturer of the sealer you choose.
- Cracks
in a blacktop drive that are 1/2" and wider should be filled with
asphalt cold-patch. This material is available in bags and cans. Pour
it in the patch and tamp it well. Narrow cracks can be filled with crack
filler which is available in cans, pour bottles and caulk cartridges.
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| Filling Depressed Areas |
Depressed
areas allow water to puddle in places on your driveway. If these areas
are less than an inch deep, they can be filled with cold patch to match
the surrounding area.
- Sweep
the area and wash with detergent and water. Allow it to dry.
- Prime
the area by applying driveway sealer.
- Fill the
depression with cold patch, using a trowel to level it with the surrounding
area.
- Tamp the
patch with the end of a 6' length of 4 x 4. Fill as necessary with additional
cold patch.
- Allow
your patch to dry 24 hours before sealing the entire driveway.
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| Patching Potholes |
- Dig out
loose material and dirt to a solid base.
- If possible,
undercut the edges of the hole slightly to key the patch. Make sure
that the edges of the hole are solid.
- Clean
the hole of dust and foreign material.
- Fill the
hole to within 4" of the surface with well-tamped gravel.
- Apply
cold patch material in layers less than 2" thick. Tamp each layer
thoroughly. The next-to-last layer should fill the hole to within 1"
of the top of the hole.
- Allow
the last layer to extend just above the surrounding surface. Tamp it
firmly. Put a board or a piece of plywood over the hole and run back
and forth over it with your car.
- Allow
the repair to cure for 12 to 36 hours before driving on it and 2 to
5 days before sealing the entire driveway.
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| Sealing Your Driveway |
- Edge the
driveway to remove grass and weeds. Use an edger, line trimmer or a
square shovel.
- Sweep
the driveway clean.
- Sweep
it again while a helper flushes the driveway with a garden hose. This
helps remove dust and dirt trapped in small cracks. For proper adhesion,
the surface must be dust-free.
- Scrub
gas or oil-stained areas with a household detergent and a stiff bristled
brush. Using a sharp tool, dig out any areas that have been damaged
by gas or oil and feel spongy. Some sealer manufacturers make a special
primer to coat oil-stained areas.
- Allow
cracks, holes and depressions to dry enough so there is no standing
water.
- Fill all
cracks and holes with the appropriate filler. Remember, cracks and holes
of different sizes require different filler compounds. Use the recommendations
provided by the makers of the sealer you have chosen.
- Apply
your driveway sealer with a wide squeegee or brush. Apply in thin coats,
and thoroughly mix the sealer before and during application. Some manufacturers
of sealer recommend that the surface be lightly misted with water from
a garden hose during application.
- Stay off
the sealed surface for 24 hours. Use the empty sealer containers or
some other means to block the driveway from unsuspecting visitors.
- Step back
and admire. Your driveway should look handsomely rejuvenatedand
you did it yourself!
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