Post and Rail Fencing

Before proceeding with any fencing project, a few preliminary steps are in order. Some are simply good ideas, some are necessary:

• Discuss your plans with any neighbors whose property lies along your proposed fence line. They may even split the cost with you.



• Make sure your fence will be on your property.



• Check for easements in your deed. An easement is a right-of-way granted to another property owner or utility company which may limit the design and location of your fence.



• Confirm the location of underground utilities with local providers before digging.
  
  

  Before you begin any excavation you need to call and check for underground utilities. The North America One Call Referral Service at 1-888-258-0808 connects you to a national directory of utility companies.

  
  
• Check local zoning laws which may regulate the size and placement of your fence. Check with your neighborhood association before proceeding with your plans.



• Apply for the proper building permit as directed by local code.

The common materials are pine and cedar. Rails are usually 8' or 11' feet long. They are round, half-round or square/diamond-shaped. The rails insert into the holes in the posts and are held in place by their own weight.

Posts are made to accept either 2 or 3 rails. Two-rail fence posts are approximately 6' long and three-hole posts are approximately 7' long.

Posts are pre-drilled for use as end, corner or line.

• End posts are drilled halfway and are used as starting and stopping points.



• Corner posts are drilled halfway on adjoining sides for use on right angles.



• Line posts are drilled all the way through and support the rails on long, straight portions.

When buying fencing, make sure the components and wood finishes match. After it is installed, stain the fence or let it weather naturally.

The layout of the fence is somewhat determined by length of the precut fencing rails. The problem is that few landscapes are laid out in 8' and 11' increments. Therefore pre-measuring is a must.

To make a fence fit the landscape:

• Shorten the overall length of the fence to accommodate the length of the precut rails.



• Put a shorter section at each end to preserve the symmetry of the fence.



• Make the gate(s) or opening wider or narrower.



• Shorten the fence rails. Cutting the rails themselves is not difficult. Trimming the ends to fit into the posts can be awkward and tricky. The "measure twice, cut once" rule definitely applies here.

Two rails following a slope.

Three rails following a slope.

Two rails ignoring a slope.

Three rails ignoring a slope.

When dealing with slopes, follow the angle of the slope on steep inclines.

Take time to lay out the fence carefully. An incorrect measurement could result in problems. If you are dealing with extreme slopes, you may need to choose another fencing type.

To plan your fence:

1. Stake out your fence line from beginning to end, including corners and gates.



2. Tie a string tautly between corner post locations to define the line along which the line posts will be placed.



3. Using the same measurement as the length of your rails, stake out the line post locations. Remember to take the overlap of the rails into account. Ensure that the stakes are touching the layout string so the posts will be in line.



4. Measure "on center" from each corner post (from center to center of each post instead of from the edges) along the layout lines.



5. Remember to take any gates or openings into account at this stage. This allows some flexibility in layout even though you are working with precut rails.

Good idea: Lay out the fence as a "dry fit" before digging holes for the line posts. This can prevent the need for major adjustments later.

The most important part of a fence is underground — the posts. When planning the height of your posts, plan for a clearance of at least 6" from the ground to the lowest rail to allow mowing and trimming. Add a couple of inches for settling over time. The best practice is to put 1/3 of the post in the ground. Using a posthole digger or power auger, dig the holes 10-12" wide and 6" deeper than needed. Backfill each hole with 6" of gravel to drain water away from the bottom of the post. If your fence required a permit, the depth may be specified there.

To level the tops of posts, run a string at the desired height from corner post to corner post. Do not cut the posts. Dig the hole deeper or add gravel to adjust hole depth.

1. Install the end posts first. This will establish a reference so you can make sure the line posts are set in line.



2. Check each post to make sure it's plumb using a post level. (A post level attaches to the post and checks for plumb and level.)



3. Set each line post, insert rails and check the length and fit as you progress. Minor adjustments may be necessary.



4. Fill holes with soil and tamp to firm. Check plumb and alignment again and make any necessary adjustments.