| Introduction |
What is commonly known as drip irrigation is actually a combination of several types of
low-pressure, low-volume water delivery systems. The correct term for
these systems is microirrigation. Each microirrigation system is distinguished
by a different style of emitter (the part that discharges the water).
These microirrigation systems originated with commercial growers and farmers.
With the ever-increasing desire and necessity of water conservation, drip
irrigation is a great idea for the home gardener.
Some of these systems deliver water literally one drop at a time. Far from water torture,
this type of system is the best way to maximize your water resources and
get the most from your plants. By keeping the plant's roots moist (but
not to the point of saturation) you actually use less water than with
conventional watering techniques. Other systems can be configured to mist and provide humidity.
Made from flexible vinyl or polyethylene pipe, drip systems are commonly installed
in the subsoil in commercial agricultural applications. At home, you can
"hide" the system with a layer of mulch. Leaving it on top of
the ground is fine, especially if you are troubled by mice or voles (they
sometimes seem to think of the tubing as a snack). As smaller plants mature
and spread, the water supply lines are less visible. To help prevent clogging,
make sure that any part that emits water remains above ground.
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| Why a Drip System? |
The list of the benefits of using drip irrigation over hand watering applys both to plants and gardeners.
A drip system:
- Saves water — you could experience up to a 50% reduction when
using a properly installed and maintained drip irrigation system.
- Connects directly to the hose bib and doesn't require cutting water supply lines.
- Avoids randomly watering your plants (and the weeds).
- Targets the exact area where you want the water (for example, the roots) and
allows you to deliver it at the exact time you wish (using a timer).
- Installs easily, plus the system components are relatively inexpensive. Kits
are available or you can purchase individual components to customize and expand your system.
- Delivers water without creating an overly moist environment that promotes fungal diseases.
- Adapts easily to changes in landscape. Systems can be used for containers, raised beds, vegetable rows or balconies.
Drip irrigation can circle a tree or shrub at the dripline.
- Reduces erosion on slopes (remember to place the emitter upslope, above the plant).
- Improves water-holding capacity in sandy soils.
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Good idea: Drip
irrigation systems conserve water, but still may be under restrictions
in some areas. Learn your local water regulations before buying and
installing a microirrigation system. |
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| Drip Irrigation Parts |
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Good idea: Although
they're not considered true microirrigation systems, soaker
hoses are considered a form of drip irrigation. If you use a soaker
hose, use a timer to avoid wasting water. |
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| Remember |
- Fine tuning your system to your plants and soil may require a few days of observation
and tinkering. Monitor the soil moisture and adjust the watering time
and placement of emitters accordingly.
- Larger plants need more water and may require more than one emitter. Also, as
plants mature they may need additional water.
- When cutting tubing, use a sharp blade and make sure the cut is square (not angled).
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 If you bury the lines, mark the spot where the end is located. This helps you locate it for flushing or draining.
- Attach a Y-coupling to the hose bib to allow use of a regular garden hose without disconnecting the system.
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| Important |
Maintaining sufficient pressure throughout the system is critical to success. Follow
the manufacturer's recommendations for the maximum length of tubing the
system can accommodate as well as the proper spacing of emitters.
A stopped line or plugged emitter can virtually shut down a microirrigation system.
To maintain a clog-free irrigation system:
- Flush the line before closing the system to clear debris.
- Flush the system and clean filters regularly, especially if your water supply contains a lot of minerals.
- Drain the system before freezing weather arrives.
Read more on how to install a drip irrigation system.
| Find Drip Irrigation Products |
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Backflow
preventer - or anti-siphon device is required to prevent
water from the system re-entering your water supply when the system
is turned off. Backflow prevention devices are required in most areas. 
Pressure
regulator - or pressure reducer. The typical home water supply
has too much pressure. If the pressure is over 50 psi, you will need
a pressure regulator. 
Hose
fitting - connects the tubing to the pressure regulator.
Tubing
- 1/2, 1/4, 3/8, 5/8, or .710 depending on the needs and
manufacturer. Used for the main supply line and smaller lines for
individual plants and containers. Tubing is usually made from black
polyethylene. The smaller "microtubes" can be used in tight
spaces and are easily disguised. 
Straight
- used to connect one section of tubing to another
Elbow
- to allow right angle turns
Tee
- fittings are used to split the direction 
End
fitting/figure eight - closes the system at the end of
the line
Bubblers
- often used for trees and shrubs - deliver more water in less
time
Dripper
- slow, low quantity delivery right at the root system.
Mister
- provides humidity
Hole
punch - used to make insertion points in the tubing where
emitter are located
Goof
plugs - securely stop up the hole you punched by mistake
(or allow you to move an emitter without replacing the tubing)
Barbed
Adapter - used to connect tubing and emitters
Riser
- allows emitters to be placed above the plants 
Stakes
- secure with stakes to elevate – prevent clogging by soil or bugs
Pin
or hook - attaches the tubing to the soil if necessary to
anchor it
Timers
- use a mechanical or electronic timer to turn the water on and off.
Timers offer a more foolproof means of control than simply turning
the faucet manually.
