Step
1: Remove Doors
Remove the
doors and drawers from the premade cabinets. To allow both doors to open
from the center, reverse the swing of one door by measuring and marking
the hinge hole locations on the opposite side of the opening. Remove screws
and hinges. Drill pilot holes. Fill the original hinge holes with wood
putty, and sand smooth.
Step
2: Cut Flange
Use a circular saw to carefully cut the inside flange off both cabinets,
so they will be flush when placed side by side. Be careful not to cut
into the side panels. Reserve one flange strip to cover the cabinet's
seam.
Step
3: Use Adhesive
Apply an ample amount of construction adhesive to the sides of the
cabinets that will be joined; push them together. After the adhesive dries,
attach nine (1-inch) wood screws into the inside panel of one cabinet.
Repeat for the opposite cabinet.
Step
4: Attach Beaded-board
Cut two pieces of beaded-board paneling equal in length to the distance
from the top of the cabinets to the top of the toe space. Cut the remaining
piece of beaded board equal in length to the distance from the top of
the cabinets to the floor. Beginning on one side of the joined cabinets,
butt the groove
edge
of one shorter piece of beaded board up against the flange of the cabinet,
and glue in place. Repeat with the opposite side. Using a circular saw,
trim the excess beaded board so it is flush. Apply beaded board to the
back of the joined cabinets by aligning the center of a piece of beaded
board with the seam of the cabinets, and glue in place. Continue adhering
beaded board to the back of the cabinets, working outward. Use a level
to ensure squareness. Set the circular saw blade to the depth of the beaded
board; trim the excess. Be careful not to mar the beaded board.
Step
5: Attach Base Moulding
Measure and cut the base moulding for the sides and front. Miter the
corners for a tight fit. Attach the base moulding with construction adhesive
and finishing nails. (Note: Drill small pilot
holes in the base moulding before nailing to prevent the wood from
splitting.) Measure and cut the shoe moulding, miter the corners. Attach
the shoe moulding with construction adhesive and finishing nails.
Step
6: Glue Flange Strip
Glue the flange strip (cut in Step 2) to the front of the cabinets
along the seam. Hold the strip in place with clamps until it dries.
Step
7: Prime and Paint
If painting the island, fill any seams with caulk. Let the caulk dry.
Prime and paint or stain the entire piece. (Tip: The inside of
the cabinets should be the same as the exterior.) Paint the corner moulding
for later use.
Step
8: Install Hardware
Put the drawer back in the cabinets, and reinstall the doors. Install
the drawers, door hardware, and the towel bar.
Step
9: Attach Countertop
Before installing the countertop, place it on the cabinets to check
the fit. Depending on the edging style, you may need to trim the inside
lip of the countertop so it will sit flush. Adjust the depth on your circular
saw to prevent cutting onto the top of the countertop. Turn the countertop
upside down to cut. Use a chisel to remove the ends of the lip. Use construction
adhesive to mount the countertop. After it dries, attach 1-inch screws
through the corner braces of the cabinets in to the underside of the countertop.
Step
10: Add Corner Moulding
Measure the two back corners of the island, and cut the prepainted
corner moulding to fit. Drill pilot holes in the moulding to prevent it
from splitting. Apply the corner moulding using construction adhesive and
small brads. For mobility, attach four casters to the bottom of the island.
Written by
Cathy Fowler Originally published in Lowe's Creative Ideas for Home
and Garden February/March 2000. ©SPC Custom Publishing
for a product buying guide. 
