| Think Outside the Box |
| Shopping List |
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Lumber
- 4 (3⁄4" thick)
- 2' square sheets of birch plywood
Hardware/Finishing Materials
- Wood
glue

- 1-lb. box (1") finishing nails*
- 4 (2") industrial locking swivel casters
- 4 (3") flat corner braces*
- 16 (#6 x 1") wood screws
- 16 (5⁄16-18 x 1 1⁄2) hex bolts
- 16 (5⁄16") fender washers
- 16 (5⁄16") lock washers
- 16 (5⁄16-18) hex nuts
- Wood filler
- 150-grit sandpaper
- Primer
- Paint (American Tradition, Central Hall #93-38B, gloss)
- Paint (American Tradition, Discovery Brown #93-38A, satin)
- Paint (American Tradition, Rich Heritage #91-41B, satin)
Tools
Skill level: Intermediate
Rough cost estimate: $66
Rough time estimate: 1⁄2 day per table
*Selection varies by market.
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| How-To Instructions |
General:
Predrill
for and countersink
all screws. Set all nail heads, and apply wood filler.
Step 1: Using glue and finishing nails, attach the top panel to both side panels. (Refer to the illustration, right.)
Step 2: Place a caster on each bottom panel corner 1-1⁄2"
from both edges. Trace holes through the caster brackets to mark for pilot
holes. Drill through each marked hole with a 5⁄16" bit.
Step 3: Using glue and finishing nails, attach the bottom panel to both side panels, checking for square as you go.
Step 4: Place a flat corner brace on each back corner of the box,
and mark the plywood edge
for pilot holes. Drill pilot holes with a 7⁄64" bit, and fasten all four corner braces using wood screws.
Step 5: Mount the casters on the bottom panel with 5⁄16" bolts, washers, and hex nuts. Use the appropriately sized
wrenches to tighten all bolts securely.
Step 6: Sand, prime, and paint to match your decor. We used American Tradition, Central Hall #93-38B,
gloss, on the inside of the table and divided the outside panels into four quadrants, alternating Discovery
Brown #93-38A, satin, and Rich Heritage #91-41B, satin, to create a large checkerboard pattern.
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| A Leg to Stand On |
Standard items from the plumbing department give this table an industrial look.
| Shopping List |
|
Lumber
- 1 (4' long)
- 1- x 20" laminated pine panel
- 1 (4' long) 1 x 6, pine
Hardware/Finishing Materials
- 4 (30" long)
- 1 1⁄4" diameter galvanized pipes
- 4 (1 1⁄4" diameter) galvanized floor flanges
- 16 (#10 x 3⁄4") wood screws
- Wood
glue

- (1") finishing nails*
- 4 (1 1⁄4" diameter) galvanized pipe caps
- Wood filler
- 150-grit sandpaper
- Primer
- Paint (American Tradition, Central Hall #93-38B, satin)
Tools
Skill level: Intermediate
Rough cost estimate: $58
Rough time estimate: 1⁄2 day per table
*Selection varies by market. |
|
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| Cut List |
| Part |
Material |
Size
| Quantity |
| top |
pine panel |
20 x 24" |
1 |
| bottom |
pine panel |
20 x 24" |
1 |
| sides |
1 x 6 |
20" long |
2 |
|
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| How-To Instructions |
General: Predrill for and countersink all screws. Set all nail heads, and apply wood filler.
Step 1: Cut all pieces per the cut list.
Step 2: Measure
and mark 2-3⁄8" in from both sides of each corner of the bottom panel for
each leg hole. (Refer to the illustration, right.) Using the hole saw,
drill leg holes. Enlarge the holes with a wood rasp, test fitting until
the pipes slide through.
Step 3: Lay
the bottom piece over the bottom of the top piece, and scribe hole
locations onto the top panel. Line up the holes in the floor flanges
with these scribe marks. Using wood screws, mount the floor flanges to the top piece.
Step 4: Attach
both sides to the top with glue and finishing nails. Test fit the bottom
to ensure all leg holes line up with the flanges, using a wood rasp to adjust holes if necessary. Attach the bottom panel
to the sides with glue and finishing nails.
Step 5: Screw pipe legs onto the table. Mount pipe caps to the bottoms of the legs.
Apply adhesive-backed felt on the leg bottoms to protect floors.
Step 6: Sand, prime, and paint to match your decor. We used American Tradition, Central Hall #93-38B, satin.
|
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| Quite the Pair |
| Shopping List |
|
Lumber
- 1 (5⁄4- x 30") edge-glued round tabletop
- 2 (6' long) 1 x 4s, popular
- 8 (27") Country French table legs (#836)*
Hardware/Finishing Materials
- Wood
glue

- 1-lb. box (2") finishing nails**
- 8 (1 1⁄2") corner braces**
- Wood filler
- 150-grit sandpaper
- Primer
- Paint (American Tradition, Discovery Brown #93-38A, high gloss)
Tools
Skill level: Intermediate
Rough cost estimate: $100 (for 2)
Rough time estimate: 1⁄2 day per table
*Available by special order in some stores.
**Selection varies by market. |
|
 |
| Cut List |
| Description |
Material |
Size |
Quantity |
| tabletops |
30" round tabletop |
half |
2 |
| side aprons |
1 x 4 |
9-1⁄4" long |
4 |
| front aprons |
1 x 4 |
18-1⁄2" long |
2 |
| back aprons |
1 x 4 |
18-1⁄2" long |
2 |
|
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| How-To Instructions |
General: Drill pilot holes for finishing nails with the appropriately sized bit. Set
all nail heads, and apply wood filler.
Step 1: Cut all pieces per the cut list, except for the tabletop. (See illustration, right.) Ensure a straight cut by clamping a poplar
board to the top as an edge guide for the circular saw.
Step 2: Glue the front and back aprons to both side aprons and clamp together. Check for square, then secure with finishing nails.
Step 3: Center corner braces on the upper-inside corners of the apron, and attach with supplied
screws. Repeat for the other three sides.
Step 4: Place the aprons with the corner braces down on the tabletop bottom. Center the apron
box from side to side and flush with the straight edge of the tabletop. Secure with supplied screws.
Step 5: Apply glue to the legs, and clamp them to the apron’s inside corner. Fasten with finishing nails.
Step 6: Sand, prime, and paint to match your decor. We selected American Tradition,
Discovery Brown #93-38A, high gloss.
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