Build a Baby Changing Station

Since there are many different sizes of baby-changing pads, it's not possible to give one standard set of dimensions for a changing station. Use the descriptions and formulas below to determine dimensions for your changing station.

1. Measure the width, height and depth of the changing pad.
   
   
2. Determine the total height of the box. Add the height of the space you want underneath the box floor, the thickness of the floor material and the height you want the sides and back to extend up from the box floor.
   
   Example: For our box, there is 4 3/4" of space under the box floor, the floor material is dimensional 1x (actual thickness 3/4") and the sides and back extend 3 1/2" up from the top of the floor, even with the top of the pad. (Our pad is 3 1/2")
   
   4 3/4" + 3/4" + 3 1/2"= 9" total height for the sides and back
   
   
3. Determine the width of the floor. Add 3/4" to the width of the pad. The back should be the same width as the floor, so you can use this measurement for the width of the back as well.
   
   Example: For our box, the pad is 31 1/4" wide.
   
   31 1/4" + 3/4"= 32" wide for the floor and back
   
   
4. Determine the depth of the floor. Add 1 1/4" to the depth of the pad.
   
   Example: For our box, the pad is 15 1/4" deep.
   
   15 1/4" + 1 1/4"= 16 1/2" deep for the floor
   
   
5. Determine the depth of the sides. Add the depth of the floor to the thickness of the back.
   
   Example: For our box, the floor is 16 1/2" deep and the back is dimensional 1x (actual thickness 3/4").
   
   16 1/2" + 3/4"= 17 1/4" deep for the sides
   
   
6. Determine the height of the front rail. Add the height you want the front rail to extend above the box floor to the thickness of the floor material.
   
   Example: For our box, the front rail extends 2 1/2" above the floor and the floor is dimensional 1x (actual thickness 3/4").
   
   2 1/2" + 3/4"= 3 1/4" front rail height
   
   
7. Determine the width of the front rail. Add the width of the floor to the thickness of both sides.

Example: For our box, the floor is 32" wide and each side is 3/4" thick.

32" + 3/4" + 3/4"= 33 1/2" front rail width

Use a table saw to cut the pieces to the correct sizes. After the pieces are cut, dry-fit them and make sure that they come together properly.

1. Cut the pieces to the sizes you determined above.

Floor prepared with dowels.

2. In all likelihood, the floor will need to be deeper than the boards you're using. Use more than one board to get the correct depth for the floor. Cut two or more pieces to match the floor width and glue them together. Use dowels or biscuits in the edges of the boards to strengthen the glue joints. Glue and clamp the floor and allow the glue to cure according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Clamped floor panel.

3. Using the height of the space you want under the floor, measure up from the bottom edges of the side and back panels (for our box, 4 3/4"). Mark the panels. During assembly, the bottom edges of the floor should align with these marks.

4. Dry-fit the pieces together and mark the joints where the boards meet.

Good idea: Make the glue-up for the floor slightly larger than required, then cut it to the correct size after the glue is cured.

Use a router to round over the corners of the boards that won't be covered by joints. Some of the corners will be inaccessible after the pieces are assembled, so it's best to round them over before assembly. Use the marks you made during dry-fitting to determine which corners to round over. Rounding over the corners before assembly ensures that the radii are symmetrical on each corner.

Click here to view round over detail.

Depending on the smoothness of the lumber, you may be able to start with fine grit sandpaper. Use your best judgment to determine what grit to start with.

1. Use coarse, 80-grit paper for initial rough sanding. Use a tack cloth to remove sanding dust.
   
   
2. When you're satisfied with the rough sanding, use medium, 150-grit paper to smooth the stock. Use a tack cloth to remove sanding dust.
   
   
3. Use fine, 220-grit paper to remove the light scratches left by the medium sandpaper. Use a tack cloth to remove sanding dust.
   
   
4. Rub the wood surface lightly with a damp cloth. When the water penetrates the wood surface some of the grain will swell.
   
   
5. Allow the wood to dry.
   
   
6. Lightly sand with 400- or higher- grit sandpaper until smooth.
   
   
7. Remove any sanding dust with a tack cloth.

Use the marks you made during the dry-fit to align the pieces as you assemble them. Predrill holes for finish nails. If you choose to fasten the assembly with screws, countersink them so you can cover the holes with wood plugs or buttons.

1. Glue the back edge of the floor to the face of the back and fasten the pieces together with screws or nails through the back and into the floor.
   
   
2. Glue the sides to the floor and the back and secure them with fasteners.
   
   
3. Clamp the assembly and allow the glue to cure.
   
   
4. Remove the clamps.
   
   
5. Glue and fasten the front rail to the rest of the assembly.
   
   
6. Clamp the front rail and allow the glue to cure.
   
   
7. Remove the clamps.

Paint or Stain the Changing station