For specific information on required tools and materials for this project, visit the
Tools,
Materials and Hardware Lists page.
At the end of each day, make sure that your work site is clear of lumber
and fallen nails. Untidy building sites, especially in play areas, can cause accidents.
Day 1: The Floor
Step 1: Site Preparation
Select a site that is fairly level and has good drainage. Using a tape
measure and a framing square, measure an 8' x 8' square. Check that your
site is perfectly square by measuring the diagonals. If they each measure
11' 6", your site is a perfect 8' square.
Step 2: Outer Frame 
Use two 8' lengths of 2" x 6" lumber rated for outdoor use for
the front and rear rim
joists. From two more 8' lengths of 2" x 6"lumber rated
for outdoor use, cut two pieces of 2" x 6" x 7' 6" for
the side rim joists. Assemble the outer frame by nailing through the front
and rear rim joists into the side rim joists, using two 12d 3 1/4"
common nails for each corner. See Figure 1.
Step 3: Leveling the Site
Level the ground under your floor frame using a shovel and a rake. Check
your level by placing a 4'-long carpenter's level on top of the rim joists
(you may have to prop up a corner of the floor with a brick or a patio
block). After the site is level, move the frame away and spread a sheet
of polyethylene film over the site to prevent vegetation from growing.
Move the frame back into place.
Step 4: Inner Frame Joists
(see figure 1)
From 8' lengths, cut five pieces of 2" x 6" x 7' 9" lumber
rated for outdoor use for the floor joists. Measure from the outer rear
corners of the frame, and locate the centers of the inner floor joists
at 16", 32", 48", 64" and 72". Use two 12d 3
1/4" galvanized common nails to secure each end of the inner floor
joists to the side rim joists. Measure the gaps between the inner floor
joists and cut lengths of 2" x 6" lumber rated for outdoor use
to fit between each pair of joists. Nail the blocks into place near the
middle of the floor joists. Every second block should be offset slightly
to facilitate nailing.
Step 5: Plywood Floor
Set one 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4" CDX plywood (exterior rated) on the
frame, with one edge of the sheet flush with the rear rim joist. Use the
plywood as a guide to square up your frame. The front edge of the plywood
sheet should fall exactly at the center of the floor joist that was secured
at 48" on center. Fasten the plywood to the joists with 1 5/8"
#6 coated deck screws at 8" intervals around the perimeter and at
12" intervals in the center of the plywood. Mark and cut the second
sheet of 3/4" CDX plywood in half lengthwise. Put one half aside
for later use as the door. Set the other half on the floor joists next
to the full plywood sheet, leaving a 1/16" gap between the two sheets.
Secure the half-sheet to the floor joists with 1 5/8" #6 coated deck
screws.
Day 2: Framing (see figure 2)
Build the walls on the ground, stand them up and then nail them into place.
Step 1: Wall Studs
Cut nineteen 5' 6" lengths of 2" x 4" from 12' lengths for the wall studs.
Step 2: Rear Wall
Use two 8' lengths of 2" x 4" for the top and bottom plates.
Space the studs 2' on center between the top and bottom plates and secure
the studs by nailing through the plates with 8d 2 1/2" galvanized
common nails. Cut four 2" x 4" x 21 1/2" pieces and nail
them, horizontally, between the studs about halfway up the wall.
Set the rear wall in place directly over the rear rim joist and floor. Nail the
rear wall into place with 16d 3 1/2" galvanized common nails, driven
through the wall's bottom plate and the floor and into the rim joist.
Temporarily prop up the rear wall with an 8'-long 2" x 4". Rest
one end on the ground and nail the other at an angle into the right-side
stud of the back wall, at a height of about 4'.
Step 3: Side Walls
The two side walls are identical. Our windows required a 17 3/4"-wide
x 15 1/4"-high opening. If you use different windows, adjust the
distance between the two center studs. In doing so, make sure you have
a stud centered at 4' from the back of the playhouse to use as a nailer
for the edges of the sheathing boards. Since the side walls will be mounted
3 1/2" from the back of the playhouse, the middle nailers should
be centered at 44 1/2" from the back of the side walls.
Cut four 2" x 4" x 65" pieces from 12' lengths for the top and bottom
plates. Nail the plates to the end studs with two 8d 2 1/2" common
nails at each joint. Nail one stud on center at 44 1/2" from the
back of each side wall. Nail another stud at the appropriate distance
for the window framing.
Set one side wall in place, butted up against the end of the rear wall and flush
with the edge of the side rim joist. Nail the wall into place with 16d
3 1/2" nails. Use a level to make sure that the wall is plumb and
then secure it to the end of the back wall with 8d 2 1/2" common
nails. Repeat for the other side wall.
Step 4: Front Wall
Use two 2" x 4" x 8' pieces for the top and bottom plates.
Fasten a stud to each end of the top plate by nailing through the plate
into the stud, using two 8d 2 1/2" common nails at each joint. Fasten
the bottom plate to the two end studs with 8d 2 1/2" common nails.
Fasten another stud 22" from the right end of the front wall for
the edge of the doorway. Fasten a fourth stud so that it is centered 48"
from each side of the wall. This will serve as the second stud for the
doorway and as a nailer for the left front sheathing.
The other two studs serve as framing for the front window. We spaced them
17 3/4" apart so that their centers were 61" and 79 1/4"
from the right side of the wall (adjust for different window sizes).
Set the front wall in place, butted up against the side walls and flush with the edge of the plywood floor. Nail the front wall to the floor with 16d 3 1/2" common nails. Make sure the front and side walls are plumb and
nail their end studs together with 8d 2 1/2" common nails.
Step
5: Porch Posts
Cut three 4" x 4" x 6' 2-1/2" pieces of lumber rated for
outdoor use for porch posts. Cut a 3 1/2"-long by 1 1/8"-deep
notch at the top of the front face of each post. The easiest way to do
this is to make a series of 1 1/8"-deep cuts in the face about 1/2"
apart, break out the cuts and clean out the excess wood with a 2"-wide,
sharp chisel.
Cut 5 1/2"-long, 1 1/8"-deep notches on the bottom front faces of the posts, at the
bottom left side of one post and at the bottom right side of another post.
Stand the left post inside the rim joists at the front left of the playhouse.
The notches will allow the base of the post to be flush with the left
and front rim joists. Have a helper hold the post plumb. Secure the post
to the floor frame by nailing through the rim joists with four 12d 3 1/4"
common nails. Repeat for right post.
Stand the center post inside the front rim joist with its center at 50" from
t
he right side of the frame. The notch allows the base of the post to
be flush with the front of the rim joist. Secure it to the rim joist with
two 12d 3 1/4" common nails.
Step 6: Top Plates
Insert one 2" x 4" x 8' into the top notches of the front posts
as a ledger board. Check that the posts are plumb and secure the ledger
to each post with two 2 1/2" #7 deck screws.
Cut two 2" x 4" x 7' 9" pieces from 8' lengths for the lateral
top plates. Set one on top of each side wall, overlapping the splice between
the back and side walls and stretching to the front edge of the post.
Using ten 12d 3 1/4" common nails, secure each side plate by nailing
into the post, the back wall splice and the top of the side wall.
Cut three 2" x 4" x 7' 5" pieces from 8' lengths for the front, middle
and rear plates. Set them in place between the side plates and over the
front wall, the rear wall and the ledger. Using ten 12d 3 1/4" common
nails, secure the plates.
Step 7: Window and Door Framing
Cut six lengths of 2" x 4" to serve as window nailers. Our nailers
are 17 3/4" wide, to bridge the distance between the two studs that
serve as side framing for the windows. Using two 8d 2 1/2" galvanized
common nails at each joint, fasten the lower nailer between the two studs,
24" from the floor. Check that the nailer is level before securing
it.
Fit a window into the opening, resting on the lower nailer. Set the top
nailer in place over the window. Re
move the window and fasten the top
nailer with 8d 2 1/2" galvanized common nails, driven through the
studs into the nailer. Repeat for the other two windows.
Cut one 2" x 4" x 2' for the header above the front door. Insert
the header between the two front door studs at a height of 5' from the
floor. Make sure that it is level and then fasten the header in place,
with two 8d 2 1/2"galvanized common nails, driven through the studs
into each end of the header.
Day 3: Roof Framing (see
figure 3)
Step 1: The Ridge Beam
Use one 2" x 6" x 8' board for the roof ridge beam. Use 1 1/2"
galvanized joist hanger nails to secure five ridge rafter connectors to
each side of the ridge beam. Starting from the front end of the beam,
locate the centers of the connectors at 2", 24", 48", 72"
and 93".
Step 2: Hurricane Ties
To ensure that the rafters are secured to the proper locations on top
of the two side walls, set the ridge beam on top of each side wall in
succession, allowing the beam to overhang 1 1/2" in the front and
1 1/2" in the back. Mark the top of each side wall at the center
of each ridge rafter connector. Secure hurricane ties to the top of each
side wall at the ridge rafter marks, using 1 1/2" galvanized joist
hanger nails. Make sure the prongs of the ties are facing outward and
protrude over the edges of the plates.
Step 3: Porch Ceiling
Cut one 4' x 8' sheet of 5/8" T-111 tongue and groove sheathing in
half, lengthwise, for the porch ceiling. Set half the sheet, groove-side
down, over the front wall and flush with the front edge of the posts.
Mark the location of the front hurricane ties on the sheathing and cut
1 3/4"-wide, 1 3/4"-deep notches in the sheathing at each hurricane
tie location. Set the sheathing back in place and secure it to the wall
plates with 1 5/8" #6 coated deck screws every 6" around the
perimeter.
Step 4: Front Ridge Support Post
Cut one 2" x 4" x 17 7/8" piece for the front ridge support
post. Using 1 1/2" joist hanger nails, secure one 2" x 6"
fence bracket to the top edge of the ridge beam support post, flush with
the front of the post, as shown in Figure 3. Secure the support post to
the center of the porch ceiling, flush with the front edge, using a 2"
x 4" fence bracket and 1 1/2" joist hanger nails.
Step 5: Rear Ridge Beam Support Post
Cut one 2" x 4" x 18 1/2" piece for the rear ridge beam
support post. Prepare the top of the post as outlined in Step 4. Center
a 2" x 4" fence bracket over the rear wall plate, flush with
the rear edge of the plate. Secure the bracket and post as outlined in
Step 4.
Step 6: Fastening the Ridge Beam
Set the ridge beam, rafter connector-side up, into the 2" x 6"
fence brackets. The beam should overhang the posts by 2" in the front
and 1" in the back. Using 1 1/4" #6 deck screws, secure the
beam to the brackets.
Step 7: The End Rafters
A miter saw is particularly useful for cutting the rafters. They are 55
1/2"-long parallelograms, cut from 2" x 4" lumber. Cut
ten rafters at 67 1/2° angles, as shown in Figure 3. Using one 1
1/4" #6 deck screw, secure one rafter to each of the front ridge
rafter connectors and set the other end of each rafter into the appropriate
hurricane tie. Use a torpedo level to bring the front ridge beam support
post to a plumb position. Secure each front rafter to its hurricane tie
with one 1 1/4" #6 deck screw. Repeat for rear rafters.
Step 8: Securing the Rafters
Insert the remaining rafters into the ridge rafter connectors and hurricane
ties. Using 1 1/2" galvanized joist hanger nails, fasten all rafters
to the hurricane ties and rafter connectors. It is vital to use all of
the fastening holes in the connectors, as this will increase the strength
and snow-bearing capacity of the roof.
Day 4: Decking & Sheathing (see
figure 4)
Step 1: Decking
Cut 17 pieces of 5/4" x 6" x 21" for the front deck boards.
Notch one deck board to fit around the left post and secure it to the
front and left rim joists and the floor joist with 2" #7 deck screws.
Use two 16d 3 1/2" common nails as spacers between deck boards and
secure all deck boards in place. You will need to notch two boards to
fit around the center and right posts. You will also have to trim the
right decking board to make it flush with the right rim joist.
Step 2: Rear Wall Sheathing
Position two 4' x 8' sheets of T-111 tongue-and-groove sheathing vertically,
so that they fit together at the center stud of the rear wall and reach
the top of the ridge. Using two 6d 2" finishing nails, hammered through
the sheathing and about 1" into two studs, tack each rear sheathing
board into position. The boards will be bent slightly at the top because
the ridge beam hangs over the rafters. Mark each sheet of sheathing for
the ridge beam notch. Remove the sheathing and cut the notches. Tack the
sheathing back into place and mark the sheets for the gable cuts.
Cut the sheathing for the rear gable and use the two sheets as templates for marking
the front gable angles on two other sheets of sheathing, making sure that
the front gable sheathing boards meet with a tongue on one side and a
groove on the other. Mark the sheathing for the location of wall studs
and then secure the sheathing to the rear wall with 1 3/4" galvanized
ring shank nails, spaced 6" apart around the perimeter and 12"
apart on the rest of the board.
Step 3: Side Wall Sheathing
Cut two 2' x 6' pieces of T-111 sheathing from one 4' x 8' sheet. Butt
the straight edge of one board against the front edge of the playhouse
and push the sheathing up until it is 1/16" from the bottom of the
rafters. Fasten it to the front wall stud and the top and bottom wall
plates with 13/4" galvanized ring shank nails at 6" intervals.
Do not secure the sheathing to the stud that is 48" from the rear
wall at this point.
Cut the front gables from the tops of the two previously marked sheets of sheathing.
You will have two 4' x 6' sheets left that should be used as the side
wall sheathing. Attach, using 1 3/4" ring shank nails.
Step 4: Front Wall Sheathing
Fasten the two gable sheathing pieces to the front gables, using 1 3/4"
ring shank nails. Cut one sheet of T-111 sheathing to a height of 68 1/2"
and secure it to the left side of the front wall, using 1 3/4" ring
shank nails. Cut a 68 1/2"-high piece of sheathing from the 2' x
8' piece that was left from the front shelf cut. Nail it to the left front
side of the playhouse with 1 3/4" ring shank nails. Cut a 2' x 9"
piece of sheathing and nail it to the door header, top plate and door
studs with 1 3/4" ring shank nails.
Day 5: Roof Deck (see
figure 5)
Step 1: Laying Out the Deck
Cut four 4' x 4' 11" pieces of 1/2" plywood sheathing from the
four 4' x 8' sheets. Snap chalk lines down the centers of the middle rafters
on each side of the roof. Those lines should be exactly 4' from each end
of the ridge beam. Stand on the front shelf and carefully position the
left front piece of sheathing so that one side meets the center of the
left middle rafter. The top end of the sheet should be positioned directly
over the center of the ridge board. Tack the sheet in place, using two
6d 2" finishing nails, driven to a depth of about 1" through
the deck board and into the rafters.
Step 2: Fitting the Deck Sheets
Set the second deck sheet in place next to the first sheet, leaving a
1/16" gap between the two sheets. Tack the sheet in place with two
6d 2" finishing nails. Set the right rear roof deck sheet in place
and make sure that the sheets meet at the ridge. If they do not, adjust
the sheets until they do. Do not tack the right rear deck sheet at this
time.
Step 3: Nailing the Roof Deck
Remove the right rear roof deck sheet. This will allow you to stand on
a ladder inside the playhouse to secure the left deck boards. Snap chalk
lines on the two left roof deck boards to mark the positions of the rafters.
Using 6d 1 7/8" coated cooler nails, fasten the roof deck boards
to the rafters. The nails should be positioned at 6" intervals around
the perimeter and at 12" intervals in the centers of the sheets.
Secure the right roof decking boards in the same way. To secure the front right
board, you will need to sit on the peak of the roof.
Step 4: Drip Edge
Cut two 8' 2" pieces of drip edge. Secure them to the left and right edges of the roof deck with 7/8" roofing nails.
Step 5: Rake Boards
Cut two pieces of 1" x 2" x 4' 10" boards at 67 1/2°
angles from a 12' length for the rake
boards. They are parallelograms that match the angles of the rafters.
Using five 1 5/8" #6 deck screws, driven through the roofing deck,
fasten the rake boards flush with the front edges of the roofing deck.
Day 6: Roofing
Wear sneakers when roofing on a warm day. Since the materials are designed to bond together
by melting slightly in warm weather, heavy, hard shoes can mar the shingles.
Do as much work as you can from a ladder and then sit on the roof for
the remainder of the work.
Step 1: Roofing Felt Snap chalk lines across each side of the roof deck, 34" and 50"
up from the drip edges. Place a 36'-long roll of roofing felt at one corner
of the deck. Roll it out along the first chalk line, extending over the
front and rear of the deck by 2". Cut the felt with a sharp utility
knife. Staple the roofing felt down with 9/16" staples, spaced about
18" apart. Roll out and staple down the next course of felt, along
the second chalk line, overlapping the first courses by about 8".
Repeat for the other
side of the roof. Roll out and staple down the ridge
course, overlapping the second courses on both sides by about 10".
Step
2: Shingles
Since asphalt roof shingles vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, carefully
read the instructions provided with your shingles. In general, three bundles
of asphalt shingles is enough material to cover a 100-square-foot area,
or slightly more than is needed to cover this playhouse roof.
To ensure that nails do not protrude into the playhouse, secure the shingles with
7/8"-long roofing nails. Cut shingles on the smooth side, using a
sharp utility knife. If you follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully,
you should have only two exposed roofing nails on the ridge. They must
be covered with roofing cement.
Day 7: Windows, Doors & Trim (see
figure 6)
Step 1: Window Openings
From inside the playhouse, drill 1/2" holes through the sheathing
in the four corners of the rectangular window frames. Use a framing square
to draw lines for each window on the outer sheathing, linking the four
holes for each window. Cut out the window rectangles. We used a cordless
circular saw to make the cut. It can also be done with a saber saw.
Step 2: Inserting Windows
Caulk liberally along the inside flange of each window and then secure
it in place according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Step 3: Door Opening
Using a handsaw, cut away the bottom plate of the doorway framing in the
front wall. Cut one 2' piece and two 5' pieces of 1" x 4" Ponderosa
Pine from a 12' length for the top and sides of the door jamb. Using 6d
2" finishing nails, join the top piece to each of the 5' jamb sides.
Set the jamb in the door opening and nail it in place with 6d 2"
finishing nails. Although it is preferable to make the door jamb level
and plumb for the sake of appearance, it is not really necessary because
the door will mount over the jamb, rather than inside it.
Step 4: Door
Cut a 1' 11 1/2" x 4' 11 1/2" door from the remaining half-sheet
of 3/4" CDX plywood. Secure the door with 4" galvanized tee-hinges,
mounted on the right side of the jamb on the outside of the playhouse.
The hinges should be positioned 10" from the top and bottom of the
door. When mounting the door, set it on a piece of scrap shingle to create
a 1/8" clearance from the deck boards. If your playhouse is square,
your door should fit inside the right and left pieces of T-111 sheathing.
Step
5: Fascia
Cut two 7' 11" pieces of 1" x 4" Ponderosa Pine for the
fascia boards to cover the exposed edges of the rafters. Secure them to
the rafters with 6d 2" finishing nails.
Step 6: Exterior Corner Trim
Cut four 6' pieces of 1" x 3" Ponderosa Pine and two 6' pieces
of 1" x 2" Ponderosa Pine from 12' lengths. Caulk the back of
a 1" x 2" piece and secure it lengthwise to the rear corner
of the side wall, flush with the edge of the back wall and the bottom
of the sheathing, using 6d 2" finishing nails. Caulk the back of
a 1" x 3" and secure it to the corner of the back wall, flush
with the outer edge of the 1" x 2" trim. Repeat for the other
rear corner.
Cut two 5' 8 1/2" pieces of 1" x 2" Ponderosa Pine for the front
wall corner trim. Caulk the back of a 1" x 2" and secure it
lengthwise to the right corner of the front wall, flush with the edge
of the side wall, using 6d 2" finishing nails. Caulk the back of
a 1" x 3" and secure it to the corner of the front wall, flush
with the outer edge of the 1" x 2" and the base of the sheathing.
Repeat for the remaining corner.
Step 7: Paint the Playhouse
Use a top-quality outdoor latex primer and top coat. We chose Enterprise®
Severe Weather because it has a warrantee of 15 years. For a playhouse
that blends with the exterior of your house, choose colors that are compatible
with your home's color scheme. Or have fun and let your children select
a color palette.
Step
8: Finishing Touches
Since 18"-long shutters are difficult to find, we used shutters from
two interior-wood shutter kits and secured them to the sheathing at the
sides of the windows, with 11/4" #6 deck screws. We fastened decorative
fan brackets at the front corners of the playhouse, using 6d 2" finishing
nails. Using a saber saw, we made the scalloped valance from an 8' piece
of 1" x 6" Ponderosa Pine, finished it off with a router and
then nailed it in place with 6d 2" finishing nails. We also cut a
hole in the door for a Plexiglas window and trimmed the rough opening
with corner moulding.
