Build a Chimney Cupboard CD Cabinet

	Tools & Materials
	Make the Side Frames
	Join the Side Frames
	Measure for and Make the Door Frame
	Make the Drawers
	Make and Install the Drawer Slides
	Add the Back Panel
	Mill and Install the Top
	Install the Floor
	Make and Attach the Base
	Attach the Door
	Sand and Finish the Cabinet

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Tools Table saw Router and bits Combination square Drill press with mortising attachment or drill/driver and doweling jig and bits Palm sander Chisel Wooden mallet Square Clamps Tape measure Dust mask Goggles Hearing Protection

Materials 1x4x8' = 7 1/4x4x8 faced plywood = 1 sheet Wood glue Screws Brads Hinges Door catch Sandpaper

See the Cut List.

1.   Cut four frame stiles to size.

2.   Cut six side frame rails to size. Cut 3/4" long tenons in each end of each side frame rail. Rout or cut a 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep groove in one edge of four side frame rails. These will serve as the top and bottom side frame rails. Rout or cut a 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep groove in both edges of the other two side frame rails. These will serve as the median (middle) side frame rails.

3.   Create two side frame sets consisting of two stiles, one top side frame rail, one bottom side frame rail and one median side frame rail.

4.   Lay out the side rails on the stiles so that:

• The lower edge of the bottom side rail is flush with the bottom ends of the stiles.
  
• The outside edge of the top side rail is flush with the ends of the stiles.
  
• The median side rail is evenly spaced between the top and bottom rails.

Good idea:Make the mortises about 1/16" deeper than the length of your tenons to keep the tenons from bottoming out in the mortises.

5.   Mark the stiles for mortises. Cut mortises in each stile where indicated. Rout or cut a 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep groove in the inside edge of each frame stile. The groove in each stile should run from the top of the bottom mortise to the bottom of the top mortise.

Accurate measurements ensure accurate panels.

6.    Dry fit the side frames and check each one for square. While you have the frames assembled, determine the panel size for each opening. Measure the distance between the inside edges of opposing stiles and rails in each opening and add 1/2" to each measurement. Adding 1/2" ensures that the panel can't move enough to leave any gaps, but still has enough room to expand and contract without distorting the frame.

7.   Cut out the panels from your 1/4" stock. Remove one of the stiles from each dry-fit. Slide the panels in their respective openings and reinstall the stiles. Check the assemblies for fit and square. Make any necessary adjustments and glue the assemblies together.

1.   Cut four frame connector rails to size. Cut 1/2" long tenons in each end of each rail.

2.   Lay out the rails on the side frames so that:

• The lower edges of the bottom rails are flush with the bottom ends of the side frames.
  
• The outside edges of the top rails are flush with the top ends of the side frames.

3.   Mark the stiles for 1/2" deep mortises. Cut mortises in the stiles, dry-fit the assembly and check for square. Make any necessary adjustments and glue the assembly.

Do not install the back panel at this time. Leaving the back panel open makes installing the drawer slides much easier.

4.   Rout a 3/8" by 3/8" rabbet all the way around the inside edges of the opening in the back of the assembly. These rabbets will hold the back panel when the project is complete. Do not install the back panel at this time. Leaving the back panel open makes installing the drawer slides much easier.

1.   Cut four door rails to size. Cut 3/4" long tenons in each end of each door rail. Rout or cut a 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep groove in one edge of two door rails. These will serve as the top and bottom door rails. Rout or cut a 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep groove in both edges of the other two door rails. These will serve as the median door rails.

2.   Cut the door stiles to size.

3.   Lay out and mark the door rails on the stiles so that:

• The bottom edge of the bottom door rail is flush with the bottom ends of the stiles.
  
• The top edge of the top door rail is flush with the top ends of the stiles.
  
• The median side rails are evenly spaced between the top and bottom.
  

4.   Cut mortises in each stile where indicated. Rout or cut a 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep groove in the inside edge of each door stile. The groove in each stile should run from the top of the bottom mortise to the bottom of the top mortise.

5.    Dry-fit the door and check it for square. While you have the door assembled, determine the panel size for each opening. Measure the distance between the inside edges of opposing stiles and rails in each opening and add 1/2" to each measurement.

6.    Cut out the panels from your 1/4" stock. Remove one of the stiles. Slide the panels in their respective openings and reinstall the stile. Check the door for fit and square. Make any necessary adjustments and glue the assembly together.

7.   Test fit the door in place with clamps.

8.    Mark and trim the door as needed. Use a piloted core box bit to rout a finger groove in the door's edge opposite the edge you plan to hinge.

1.   Rout or cut a 3/8" by 3/8" rabbet in the back face of the top edge of each drawer front.

2.   Rout or cut two 1/4" wide by 1/2" deep grooves in the back face of the each drawer front. The grooves should be 3/8" in from and parallel with each end of each drawer front.

3.   Rout or cut a 1/4" wide by 1/2" deep groove in the back face of the each drawer front. The groove should be 3/8" in from and parallel with the bottom edge of each drawer front.

4.   Glue the drawer bottom and sides in the grooves. Glue the drawer back in place so its rear face is flush with the rear ends of the sides. Clamp the drawer and allow the glue to dry.

The drawer bottom should extend approximately 3/8" beyond the drawer sides on each side.

1.   Cut the pieces from the scrap left from making the drawer fronts. Rout or cut a 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep groove in one face of each slide. The grooves of each slide should face each other when the slides are installed.

2.   Install the first pair of slides so their top edges are 7 1/2" down from the top of each side frame and their front ends are 1 3/4" in from the front edge of each door frame. Secure the slides with glue and brads.

3.   Install the rest of the slides so that the top edge of each pair is 5 3/4" below the bottom of the slides above.

4.   Test fit the drawers in place. Make any necessary adjustments.

1.   Measure and cut 1/4" plywood to fit in the opening in the back panel.

2.    Secure the back panel with brads.

1.    Glue and clamp the pieces for the top. Allow the glue to dry.

2.    Cut the top so it is 2" wider and 1 3/4" deeper than the cabinet. Rout a decorative edge into the front and both sides of the top.

3.   Screw two cleats each to the the top, front and back connector rails. The top edges of the cleats should be flush with the top edges of the rails. Align the top so it overhangs the side frames evenly and its rear edge is flush with the rear face of the back connector rail.

4.   Screw through the cleats into the top.

1.    Cut the 1/4" plywood for the floor to fit inside the bottom of the cabinet assembly.

2.    Screw two cleats each to the bottom, front and back connector rails. The top edges of the cleats should be 5/16" below the top edges of the rails.

3.   Glue the floor in place and nail through the floor into the cleats.

If you only want to store cassette tapes, you can gain one drawer by changing the drawer slid spacing. Install the top pair of slides 6 1/2" down from the top of the side frames and the rest of the slides 4 3/4" below the bottom of the slides above.

1.    Secure a cleat to each end of each base side piece with glue and screws. One face of each cleat should be f lush with one end of each side piece.

2.   Attach the side pieces to the base front and back pieces so the ends of the side pieces are hidden by the front and back pieces.

3.   Glue the base to the cabinet. Align the cabinet on top of the base so that the face of the cabinet back rail is flush with the face of the base back rail and there is about 3/8" of reveal on each side of the cabinet.

1.    Clamp the door in place and secure the hinges.

2.    Install a magnetic catch on the door.

Sand the cabinet as needed. You can finish the cabinet in any manner you choose, using paint, stain and a clear topcoat or with an oil finish. For more decorative finishing ideas visit the finishing projects section in Lowe's Woodworkers.