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| Planning |
The location
of the sandbox is often determined by where you have space available.
The eight-foot by eight-foot frame we're building takes up 64 sq. ft.
You may be pleased to have less yard to mow, but if you can't spare the
space, work with a smaller sandbox in the area that you have. The plans
below can easily be re-sized to fit your space.
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Good idea:
When planning a location, remember your sandbox probably won't be a permanent fixture. When the kids outgrow it, convert the area back to lawn or a make a new flower bed.
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Sun or shade?
Remember that a sandbox in full sun means the youngsters are exposed to
UV rays. On the other hand, placement directly under a tree requires cutting
tree roots when digging. At best this is a difficult task—it could
also damage or kill the tree. Look for a spot that receives some shade
from the house or from nearby trees. For safety's sake, locate the sandbox
where you can keep an eye on the youngsters while they're playing.
When planning
the size, make room for dump trucks, sand buckets and the neighbors' kids.
Remember that you're going to have to put sand in it—perhaps a lot
of sand. The example we're using requires 32 cu. ft. of sand (about 64
fifty-LB. bags). If this sounds like too much, you can easily reduce the
dimensions. The bracing and corner assembly construction will be the same
regardless of the length and width.
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| Site Preparation |
When you've decided on site and size, measure, mark and prepare the area.
- Use twine and stakes to make straight lines.
- Cut out the shape with a shovel.
- Remove sod (use it to cover bare spots in your yard if you have any).
- Dig out
the soil. You'll want the bottom edge
of the sandbox slightly below the surface to help keep the walls in place.
- Level the cleared area if necessary.
- Put down
a layer of landscape fabric (not plastic) to allow drainage and prevent
weeds and grass from popping up through the sand.
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| Cut and Assemble the Pieces |
To minimize
cuts, we're building our sandbox from 8' lumber. Cedar is waterproof,
attractive and approved for ground contact. To get the depth we need (12"),
the 6" wide boards require joining.
- Square and cut four of the 1x6 boards to 8' lengths.
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Use construction
adhesive to edge glue and clamp two sets of 8' boards. Allow the adhesive
to cure according to the manufacturer's instructions. The glued 8' boards
are sides A and C of the sandbox.
- Cut eight
10" pieces from one of the 1x3 boards. These are the inside supports.
- Use 1
1/4" galvanized screws to secure one inside support at each end
of each glued 8' board. The 10" 1x3's should be on the inside face,
flush with the ends of the 8' boards as shown in the picture.
- Square and cut four of the 1x6 boards to 7' 9"lengths.
- Use construction
adhesive to edge glue and clamp two sets of 7' 9" boards. Allow the
adhesive to cure according to the manufacturer's instructions. The glued
7' 9" boards are sides B and D of the sandbox
- Secure one inside support at each end of each glued 7' 9" board (see Step 4).
- Cut the remaining 1x3 boards into 20" lengths. You should have twelve 20" 1x3's.
Cut one end of each 20" 1x3 to a point (see diagram). The 20" 1x3's will serve as stakes for the sides of the sandbox.
- Finish all of the pieces.
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| Assemble the Sandbox |
When you're putting together your box, remember that tight construction prevents sand from leaking out so make sure the sandbox is square.
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Stand one
of the 8' side-pieces on edge and butt the end of one of the 7' 9" pieces
to the inside support on the 8' piece. Drive 3" galvanized deck screws
through the 8' piece into the 7' 9" piece. Do the same on opposite end
of the 8" piece. Remember to keep the inside supports facing the inside
of the sandbox.
- Attach the second 8' piece to the 7' 9" piece the same way as the first and
square the sandbox. Secure the two halves together to complete the box.
- Drive three stakes into the ground along the outside of each side of the sandbox.
Position the first stake centered on the side-piece Position the other
two stakes two feet to the left and right of the first. Drive each stake
so its top is flush with the top edge of the side-piece
- Drive 1 1/4" galvanized screws through the stakes into the side-pieces The
stakes help reinforce the sides of the sandbox and keep it square.
- Sand lightly if needed to prevent splinters.
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| Bring in the Sand |
You'll need to know the volume of the box before buying sand.
Length x Width x Height = Volume
Example: For our box, 8 x 8 x 1= 64
The volume of the sandbox is therefore 64 cubic feet. Prepackaged, bagged sand is
available. Usually called play sand, it's most likely washed river sand,
which is smoother and cleaner than builder's sand. A fifty-pound bag is
about one half of a cubic foot, so 64 bags should fill it about halfway.
Leave room in the box for toy dump trucks, buckets, shovels and the kids.
You can always buy a few more bags of sand to add if needed.
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| Cover the Sandbox |
 Cats
are especially fond of sandboxes. If you have cats around, it's advisable
to cover the sandbox when it's not in use. Covers also keep moisture out
while reducing leaves and other debris that make their way into the sand.
The perfect sandbox cover is perhaps yet to be invented, but here are
some options:
- Plastic
tarps are quick, inexpensive covers, however they will blow off
unless attached by snaps, bungee cords or rope. Tarps may also fill
with water after a rain. Try putting a five-gallon bucket upside down
in the middle of the sandbox. The peak will allow water to drain off
of the tarp and keep it from sagging.
- Lattice is an inexpensive alternative, available in wood or plastic. While
it might keep the cats out, it won't keep out water and may break if stepped on.
- Metal screen, hardware cloth or "chicken wire" can be attached to
a wooden frame. This cover keeps debris out but won't keep out water.
- Sheets of exterior grade plywood can be cut to fit and laid on top of
the frame. Attach the plywood to the frame with hinges if you prefer.
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