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Kitchen Island Makeover 3 Ways

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Build a kitchen island that adds valuable work space, smart storage, and sleek style. Follow our steps for the basic island or add on a kitchen desk or table.

Kitchen Island Makeover 3 Ways

Project Overview

Skill Level

Advanced

Estimated Time

1-2 weeks

Estimated Cost

$$$$$$

Tools & Materials

Tools

  • Table saw
  • Portable circular saw and straightedge guide
  • Drill press
  • 35mm multi-spur bit
  • Electric sander and sanding discs
  • Sandpaper and sanding block
  • Electric drill and drill bits, #2 Phillips driver bit, countersink
  • Electric jigsaw
  • Assorted clamps
  • Router or laminate trimmer with flush- and bevel-trim bits
  • Laminate roller
  • Paintbrush, roller, roller pan
  • Pneumatic pin nailer or hammer
  • Masking tape

Add a Dining Table

  • Kreg pocket-hole jig
  • Utility knife and 48-in straightedge
  • Household iron
  • 48-in bar clamps
  • Pipe wrench
  • Level

Materials

  • Material lists included with Project Diagram PDFs

Option 1- Kitchen Island and Barstools

  • Valspar interior latex satin base 2, Midnight Bayou (#CI 15)
  • Valspar interior latex primer, quart, #165217

Option 2- Add a Dining Table

  • Minwax satin polyurethane, quart, #45862

Option 3- Add an Oven Cabinet and Computer Desk

  • Valspar interior latex primer, quart, #165217
  • Valspar interior latex satin base 2, Midnight Bayou (#CI 15)

Items may be Special Order in some stores. Product costs, availability, and item numbers may vary online or by market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market for lumber species and sizes.

Missing anything? Shop Online

Basic Kitchen Island

Small dimensional variations in the stock cabinets and the difference between nominal and actual material thicknesses can cause discrepancies between the part sizes shown in the Cutting List and the sizes needed for a good fit. Use the Cutting List as a guide, but always measure the actual dimensions before cutting any parts.

Customize the Stock Cabinets

Step 1

Remove the doors, drawers, and door and drawer hardware from one 12-inch and the 15-inch unfinished oak base cabinet. Carefully remove the face-frame dividers between the doors and drawers by sawing through them flush with the vertical face-frame members. Fill any holes with wood filler and sand it flush. (The 12-inch cabinet receives a pullout organizer, the 15-inch cabinet receives a mixer lift, and you’ll make custom doors for both cabinets.)

Step 2

From a second 12-inch base cabinet, remove the door and hinges and remove the drawer front from the drawer box. (This cabinet receives a new door and drawer front to match the other cabinets.)

Step 3

From 1/2-inch MDF, cut the door and drawer panels (A, B, C, D) to size (Cutting List ). For the stiles and rails (E, F, G, H), rip 1/4-in x 3-in poplar boards to 2-1/4 inches wide, and then cut them to the lengths listed.

Step 4

Glue and clamp the stiles and rails to the door panels, keeping the edges flush. For the drawer fronts (I, J), cut 1/4-in x 6-in poplar boards to length. Glue and clamp them to the door and drawer panels, keeping the edges flush. On the door panels (A, B) there will be a 1/2-inch space between the stile-and-rail frame and the drawer fronts. With the glue dry, finish-sand the stiles, rails, and drawer fronts, sanding the outside edges flush with the panels.

Good to Know

A pneumatic pin nailer with 1/2-inch pins makes quick work of fastening the stiles, rails, and drawer fronts to the panels. Then, to ensure flatness and a good glue bond, stack all the doors and the drawer front with the edges flush and apply clamps to the entire stack.

Step 5

Chuck a 35mm multi-spur bit into a drill press and bore hinge-cup holes in the standard and mixer cabinet door backs, matching the hinge locations on the original doors. Insert a hinge in the holes and drill pilot holes for the cup-flange screws.

Step 6

Finish-sand the cabinet face frames. Prime the face frames, doors, and drawer front. With the primer dry, lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper. Then apply two coats of paint.

Good to Know

Seal the exposed MDF edges of the door and drawer panels before applying primer. Combine one part wood glue with one part water and apply the mixture with a brush. When dry, sand the edges smooth.

Assemble the Island

Step 1

Position the two 12-inch cabinets in the desired location in your kitchen with the standard cabinet on the left and the pullout organizer cabinet on the right (as you face them). Shim them level and clamp the cabinet face frames together. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the inside edge of one cabinet face-frame stile into the adjacent face-frame stile. Drive #8 x 2-1/2-inch flathead wood screws.

Step 2

To keep the cabinets parallel, insert a 1/2-inch MDF spacer between them at the rear. Inside one cabinet, drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the cabinet side and spacer into the other cabinet side. Drive #8 x 1-1/2-in flathead wood screws to join the cabinet.

Step 3

Position the side of the 15-inch cabinet against the backs of the 12-inch cabinets with the front edge of the 15-inch cabinet face frame projecting 9-1/2 inches beyond the side of the pullout cabinet. From inside the 15-inch cabinet, drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the cabinet side into the backs of the 12-inch cabinets. Join them with #8 x 1-in flathead wood screws.

Step 4

From a 2 x 4, cut the chase frame long and short nailers (K, L) to length. Drill countersunk shank holes through the short nailers, and drive #8 x 3-in flathead wood screws through the short nailers into the ends of the long nailers, forming two 8-3/4-in x 14-1/2-in frames. (When in place, the outside faces of the frames are flush with the sides of the 12-inch and 15-inch cabinets.) Clamp one frame to the backs of the 12-inch and 15-inch cabinets, flush at the top. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the backs of the cabinets into the frame. Drive #8 x 1-1/2-in flathead wood screws. Position the second frame on the floor. It will be held in place by the plywood skins (M, N) applied to the 12-inch and 15-inch cabinet sides.

Step 5

Have your electrician install an outlet in the back of the mixer cabinet. He can drill a hole through the floor inside the chase and pull a wire from the basement.

Step 6

From 1/4-inch oak plywood, cut the toe-kick trim (M, N) to size. Temporarily install the trim, using masking tape to hold it in place.

Good to Know

When building the Option 3 island, do not cut or install the 12-inch cabinets toe kick trim (M). See the Option 3 instructions for this trim.

Step 7

From 1/4-inch oak plywood, cut and fit the skins (O, P, Q, R). To ensure proper overlaps at the outside and inside corners, cut and fit the parts in alphabetical order. Mark the toe-kick notches on each piece and cut them out. (The skins cover the toe-kick trim ends.) Cut the corner trim (S) to length. Remove the skins and toe-kick trim.

Good to Know

When building the Option 2 or Option 3 island, do not cut or install the skin (P) at this time. For Option 2, this skin is replaced with a larger one, and in Option 3 it is eliminated. See Option 2 and Option 3 instructions.

Step 8

Finish-sand the toe-kick trim, skins, and corner trim and prime and paint them, including the edges of the toe-kick trim and skins.

Step 9

With the paint dry, use construction adhesive to attach the toe-kick trim and skins to the cabinets and the top and bottom chase frames. Use a pneumatic pin nailer or hand-nail wire brads to hold the parts in place until the adhesive cures. Adhere the corner trim (S) to the outside corner of the chase with construction adhesive, temporarily holding it in place with masking tape.

Good to Know

When building the Option 2 or Option 3 island, do not install the corner trim (S) at this time. See Option 2 or Option 3 instructions.

Add the Shelves

Step 1

From 3/4-in x 3/4-in square strips of MDF, cut the short and long cleats (T, U) to length and finish-sand them. Mark lines on the skins (Q, R) to locate the top edges of the cleats and adhere them to the skins using double-face carpet tape (Shelves Detail). Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the cleats into the cabinet sides. Drive #8 x 1-1/4-in flathead wood screws.

Step 2

From 3/4-inch MDF, cut the shelves (V) to size. Seal the exposed edges of the shelves. Mask around the cleats (T, U) with masking tape, and prime and paint the cleats and shelves; let dry. Starting with the bottom shelf, position the shelves on the cleats. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the shelves into the cleats, and drive #8 x 1-1/4-in flathead wood screws. Paint the screw heads.

Build the Countertop

Step 1

From 3/4-inch MDF, cut the countertop panel (W), long edging (X), and short edging and runner (Y) to size. Glue and clamp the long and short edging around the panel perimeter, flush at the edges. Glue and clamp the runner to the panel where dimensioned. After the glue dries, sand the edges flush.

Good to Know

When building the Option 2 or Option 3 island, omit this step and refer to the countertop instructions in that option.

Step 2

Cut two 1-3/4-in x 46-3/4-in and two 1-3/4-in x 41-1/2-in strips of plastic laminate for the countertop edges. Apply high-strength spray adhesive to the long strips and the long edges of the countertop. When the adhesive becomes tacky, apply the strips to the edges with the extra width and length protruding evenly all around. Bond the strips with a laminate roller. Chuck a flush-trim bit into a router or laminate trimmer and trim the strips all around. Apply and trim the short strips in the same manner.

Step 3

Cut a 42-in x 47-1/4-in piece of plastic laminate for the top. Apply spray adhesive to the panel and the plastic laminate. When the adhesive becomes tacky, lay four 3/8-inch round dowels on the panel in the long direction, two about 4 inches from the edges and the remaining two spaced evenly between the edge dowels. Position the laminate on the dowels, centered on the panel. Slide one edge dowel out from under the laminate and lightly press the laminate against the edge of the panel with your hand. Verify that the laminate has not shifted, and then remove each dowel in succession, pressing the laminate onto the panel. With all the dowels removed, bond the laminate to the panel with the laminate roller.

Step 4

Flush-trim the top laminate, then chuck a bevel-trim bit into your router or laminate trimmer. Adjust the depth of cut so the bottom of the bevel is slightly above the top edge of the edge strips. Bevel-trim the top laminate.

Step 5

Position the countertop on the island so it protrudes 1 inch beyond the 12-inch and 15-inch cabinet face frames and 12 inches beyond the side of the standard 12-inch cabinet. Using the holes in the base cabinet corner braces as guides, drill pilot holes into the underside of the countertop, and drive #8 x 1-in flathead wood screws.

Finishing Up

Step 1

Install the pullout organizer in the 12-inch cabinet and the mixer lift in the 15-inch cabinet, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Place the mixer on the lift and plug it into the outlet at the back of the cabinet. Fasten the pullout door to the pullout unit. Install the hinges and hang the doors on the standard 12-inch cabinet and the 15-inch mixer cabinet.

Step 2

Drill holes for the cup pull screws in the pullout and mixer cabinet doors and drawer fronts and the standard cabinet door. For the standard cabinet drawer front, drill 1/2-inch counterbores 1/8 inch deep in the back of the drawer front, and then drill screw holes centered in the counterbores. Install the cup pulls.

Step 3

Apply double-face tape to the front of the standard cabinet drawer box and adhere the drawer front. Carefully open the drawer and secure the front to the drawer box with clamps. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the drawer box into the drawer front. Drive #8 x 1-in flathead wood screws. Remove the clamps.

Option 2: Add the Dining Table and Cart Garage

Follow these steps below to add a cart garage and dining table to the kitchen island created using the previous steps. Small dimensional variations in the stock cabinets and the difference between nominal and actual material thicknesses can cause discrepancies between part sizes shown in the Cutting List and the sizes needed for a good fit. Use the Cutting List as a guide, but always measure the actual dimensions before cutting any parts.

Build the Cart Garage

Step 1

From 3/4-inch birch plywood, cut the garage side (A), end (B), and top (C) to size (Cutting List). With the side overlapping the end, glue and clamp the parts together. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the side into the end. Drive #8 x 2-in flathead wood screws. Glue and clamp the top in place flush with the top edges of the side and end. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the side and end into the top. Drive #8 x 2-in flathead wood screws.

Good to Know

The overall front-to-back dimension of the garage, including the face frame (G, H), matches the dimension from the front of the 15-inch cabinet face frame to the corner of the 2 x 4 chase frame.

Step 2

From 1 x 2 poplar boards, cut the end edge cleat (D), end bottom cleat (E), and top and side cleats (F) to length. Glue and clamp the cleats to the inside surfaces of the garage shell.

Step 3

From a 1 x 2 oak board, cut the face-frame rail (H) and face-frame stile (G) to length. Using a pocket-hole jig, drill pocket holes along the outside front edges of the side (A) and top (C). Glue and clamp the rail to the top, flush at the top edge, and drive pocket screws. Glue and clamp the stile to the side with the edge of the rail protruding 1/4 inch beyond the side. Drive pocket screws.

Step 4

From 1/4-inch oak plywood, cut the side skin (I) and end skin (J) to size. Hold the skins in place. Mark the toe-kick notch on the end skin and cut it out.

Good to Know

When making the Option 3 island, do not cut and fit the side skin (I) and end skin (J). See the Option 3 instructions.

Step 5

Finish-sand the garage face frame and the skins. Prime and paint the face frame and the inside of the garage shell. Prime and paint the skins, including the edges.

Step 6

Clamp the garage to the island. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the side of the mixer cabinet into the top cleat (F). Drive #8 x 1-1/2-in flathead wood screws. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the back bottom cleat (E) and side cleat (F) into the floor. Drive #8 x 2-1/2-in flathead wood screws. When screwing the side cleat to the floor, make sure the width of the garage opening is consistent top to bottom.

Step 7

Use construction adhesive to adhere the skins to the garage shell, top and bottom chase frames, and 12-inch cabinet side. Use a pneumatic pin nailer or hand-nail wire brads to hold the skins in place while the adhesive cures. Retrieve the corner trim you cut and painted for Option 1, and adhere it to the outside corner of the cart garage with construction adhesive. Temporarily hold it in place with masking tape.

Make the Top

Step 1

From 3/4-inch MDF, cut the countertop panel (K), long edging (L), and short edging and runner (M) to size. Glue and clamp the long and short edging under the panel around the perimeter and flush at the edges. Glue and clamp the runner to the panel where dimensioned. With the glue dry, sand the edges flush.

Good to Know

When building the Option 3 island, omit this step and refer to the countertop instructions in that option.

Step 2

Cut two 1-3/4-in x 57-in and two 1-3/4-in x 47 -1/4-in strips of plastic laminate for the countertop edges. Apply high-strength spray adhesive to the long strips and the long edges of the countertop. When the adhesive becomes tacky, apply the strips to the edges, with the extra width and length protruding evenly all around. Bond the strips with a laminate roller. Chuck a flush-trim bit into a router or laminate trimmer and trim the strips all around. Apply and trim the short strips in the same manner.

Step 3

Cut a 47-1/4-in x 57-in piece of plastic laminate for the top. Apply spray adhesive to the panel and the plastic laminate. When the adhesive becomes tacky, lay four 3/8-inch round dowels on the panel in the short direction, two about 4 inches from the edges, and the remaining two spaced evenly between the edge dowels. Position the laminate on the dowels, centered on the panel. Slide one edge dowel out from under the laminate and lightly press the laminate against the edge of the panel with your hand. Verify that the laminate has not shifted and then remove each dowel in succession, pressing the laminate onto the panel. With all the dowels removed, bond the laminate to the panel with the laminate roller.

Step 4

Flush-trim the top laminate, then chuck a bevel-trim bit into your router or laminate trimmer. Adjust the depth of cut so the bottom of the bevel is slightly above the top edge of the edge strips [Bevel Detail]. Bevel-trim the top laminate.

Step 5

Position the countertop on the island so it protrudes 1 inch beyond the 12-inch and 15-inch cabinet face frames and 12 inches beyond the side of the standard 12-inch cabinet. Using the holes in the base cabinet corner braces as guides, drill pilot holes into the underside of the countertop and drive #8 x 1-in flathead wood screws.

Construct the Table

Step 1

From 2 x 4s, cut the table rails (N) and stretchers (O) to length. Using a pocket-hole jig, drill pocket holes in five of the stretchers and the inside faces of the rails.

Good to Know

When building the Option 3 island, omit this step and refer to the table instructions in that option.

Step 2

Position the five drilled stretchers between the rails, one at each end with the pocket holes on the inside faces and three evenly spaced between the end rails. Drill countersunk shank holes through the rails. Make the countersinks deep enough to allow a 1/8-inch-thick layer of wood filler over the screw heads. Drive #8 x 3-in flathead wood screws through the rails into the ends of the stretchers.

Step 3

To attach the legs, position the remaining undrilled stretcher (O) 1/2 inch from the leg-end stretcher with the wide face horizontal and flush with the top edges of the frame. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the rails into the horizontal stretcher. Drive #8 x 3-in flathead wood screws.

Step 4

Fill all the screw countersinks with wood filler. When dry, sand the filler flush and sand the outside surfaces of the 2 x 4 frame smooth. Use a utility knife and a straightedge to cut three 3-1/2-in x 48-in strips of iron-on veneer facing from a 12-in x 48-in sheet. Apply the veneer to the outside faces of the rails and leg end of the frame. (You’ll have one butt-joint seam on each rail.)

Good to Know

To avoid getting adhesive smudges on your household iron, purchase one from a thrift store and keep it in your shop.

Step 5

From 1 x 6 oak boards, cut the table slats (P) to length and finish-sand them. Apply two coats of satin polyurethane to the slats and the veneered face of the table frame, sanding lightly with 220-grit sandpaper or a fine sanding sponge between coats.

Step 6

Lay out the slats bottom face up on a padded flat surface, separating them with 1/4-inch-thick spacers. Position the table frame on the slats, centered side to side with the island end of the frame flush with the island ends of the slats. Snug the slats and spacers together with bar clamps using light pressure, and then clamp the frame to the edge slats. Starting at the edges, drive pocket screws through the frame rails and stretchers into the slats. Do not fully seat the screws until all the slats have been loosely pinned to the frame. Check to make certain the slats protrude evenly beyond the frame at the edges and that they are flush with the inboard end. Then seat all the screws and remove the spacers.

Add the Legs and Install the Table

Step 1

From 1-inch galvanized pipe, nipples, and fittings, assemble the legs. For the 16-1/8-inch-long crossbar pipe, have a Lowe’s associate cut and thread an 18-inch-long pipe. Thread the pipes and nipples into the fittings so the center-to-center and overall dimensions are as shown. Position the holes in the flanges so a line through each pair of holes is parallel to the crossbar pipe.

Good to Know

When building the Option 3 island, omit this step and refer to the leg instructions in that option.

Step 2

With the tabletop upside down, position the leg assembly upper flanges on the horizontally oriented stretcher (O), centered end to end and side to side. Using the holes in the flanges as guides, drill pilot holes into the stretcher. Drive #12 x 1-in zinc-plated panhead sheet-metal screws.

Step 3

Position the island end of the table against the side of the cart garage, centered side to side. Prop the table in place and level it end to end. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the end stretcher (O) into the side of the cart garage. Drive #8 x 2-in flathead wood screws. Remove the prop.

Step 4

Kitchen Island Makeover 3 Ways
Kitchen Island Makeover 3 Ways

Using the holes in the leg assembly floor flanges as guides, drill pilot holes into the floor and drive #8 x 1-in stainless-steel panhead sheet-metal screws.

Add Option 3: Add an Oven Cabinet and Computer Desk

These instructions are to enlarge the table and add an oven cabinet and computer desk to Option 2. Small dimensional variations in the stock cabinets and the difference between nominal and actual material thicknesses can cause discrepancies between part sizes shown in the Cutting List and the sizes needed for a good fit. Use the Cutting List as a guide, but always measure the actual dimensions before cutting any parts.

We sized the oven enclosure for a 30-inch KitchenAid single electric wall oven (#182669) that requires a cabinet with a 28-inch-high opening 28-1/2 inches wide and an interior depth of 23-1/2 inches. Before starting to build your cabinet, verify the size requirements of your oven.

Build the Oven Cabinet

Step 1

From 3/4-inch birch plywood, cut the sides (A), back (B), bottom and shelf (C), stretchers (D), and toe kick (E) to size (Cutting List). Cut the toe-kick notches in the sides (Oven Cabinet Exploded View). Drill pocket holes along the front outside edges of the sides, front bottom edge of the bottom, front top edge of the shelf, and the front top edge of the front stretcher. 


Step 2

Clamp the back (B) between the sides (A), with the outside face of the back flush with the rear edges of the sides. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the sides into the back. Drive #8 x 2-in flathead wood screws.



Step 3

Position the bottom (C) with the pocket holes down and the top face 6 inches above the bottom edges of the sides (A). Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the sides and back (B) into the bottom. Drive #8 x 2-in flathead wood screws.

Good to Know

To position the bottom (C), cut 5-1/4-inch-wide spacers and clamp them to the sides (A) and back (B), with the lower edges flush. Lay the bottom on the spacers and proceed with drilling and driving screws. Remove the spacers and cut them down to 4-1/4 inches wide. Place them on top of the bottom and lay the shelf on them. Drill and drive screws.

Step 4

Position the shelf (C) with the pocket holes up and the top face 5 inches above the top face of the bottom. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the sides and back into the shelf. Drive #8 x 2-in flathead wood screws.


Step 5

Position the drilled stretcher (D) at the front of the cabinet with the pocket holes up and the undrilled stretcher (D) at the rear. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the sides (A) and into both stretchers and through the back (B) into the rear stretcher. Drive #8 x 2-in flathead wood screws.



Step 6

From 1 x 2 oak, cut the face-frame stiles (F) and rails (G) to length. Glue and clamp the stiles to the sides (A) with the edges of the stiles protruding 1/4 inch past the outside faces of the sides. Drive pocket screws through the sides into the stiles. Glue and clamp rails to the bottom and shelf (C) with the top edges of the rails and top faces of the bottom and shelf flush. Drive pocket screws through the bottom and shelf into the rails. Glue and clamp the remaining rail to the front stretcher (D) with the top edge of the rail and top face of the stretcher flush. Drive pocket screws through the stretcher into the rail.

Step 7

Apply glue to the top edge of the toe kick (E) and position it between the sides and against the bottom (C). Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the sides (A) into the toe kick. Drive #8 x 2-in flathead wood screws.



Step 8

From 1/4-inch oak plywood, cut and fit the back skin (H) and side skin (I). Temporarily place a 4-1/2-inch-wide scrap of 1/4-inch plywood in the toe kick and mark and cut the toe-kick notch on the side skin. (The side skin will cover the end of the toe-kick trim to be added later.) Finish-sand the skins, and then prime and paint them, including the edges.



Step 9

With the paint dry, use construction adhesive to attach the skins to the oven cabinet. Use a pneumatic pin nailer or hand-nail wire brads to hold the parts in place while the adhesive cures.

Make the Computer Desk

Step 1

From 2 x 4s, cut the long plates (J), short plates (K), and uprights (L) to length. Using #8 x 3-in flathead wood screws, assemble the L-shape desk frame (Desk Frame Exploded View).

Step 2

Position the frame against the back of the oven cabinet with the back edge of the desk frame and the side of the oven cabinet flush. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the back (B) and back skin (H) of the oven cabinet into the desk frame upright (L). Drive #8 x 2-in flathead wood screws.

Good to Know

Before cutting the long plates (J), position the oven cabinet against the Option 2 island with the front surfaces of the oven-cabinet face frame and the 12-inch-cabinet face frame flush. Then measure from the back of the oven cabinet to the side of the cart garage. Cut the long plates to this dimension.

Step 3

Mount an outlet box horizontally to the underside of the top long plate, centered in the assembled length of the oven cabinet and computer desk and facing the Option 2 island. Mount the box with the front protruding 1/4 inch beyond the edge of the plate.



Step 4

Cut the transition skin (M) to size. Fit it in place and mark and cut the outlet opening. Paint and prime the transition skin, including the edges. Adhere the skin to the oven cabinet side and the computer desk frame.



Step 5

Position the oven cabinet/computer desk frame assembly against the Option 2 island. Clamp together the oven cabinet and 12-inch cabinet face frames. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the oven cabinet face frame into the 12-inch cabinet face frame. Drive #8 x 2-1/2-in flathead wood screws. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the back of the cart garage and into the computer desk framing. Insert 1/4-inch plywood shims between the cart garage and framing below the transition skin (M), as necessary. Drive #8 x 2-in flathead wood screws. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the bottom long and short plates into the floor. Drive #8 x 2-1/2-in flathead wood screws.



Step 6

Have your electrician mount boxes in the back of the computer desk niche for a power outlet and phone and computer network jacks. While that’s being done, rough-in the wiring for these devices as well as the outlet facing the Option 2 island and the oven.



Step 7

From 1/4-inch oak plywood, cut and fit the toe-kick trim (N), inner back skin (O), inner side skin (P), end skin (Q), and outer side skin (R). Mark and cut openings for the electrical boxes in the inner back skin. Cut the corner trim (S and T) to length. Prime and paint the skins, including the edges and the corner trim, but do not install them at this time.

Construct the Countertops

Step 1

From 3/4-inch MDF, cut the lower panel (U), long edging (V), and short edging and runner (W) to size. Glue and clamp the long and short edging around the panel perimeter, flush at the edges. Glue and clamp the runner to the panel where dimensioned (Lower Countertop). With the glue dry, sand the edges flush.

Step 2

Cut two 1-3/4-in x 56-1/2-in and two 1-3/4-in x 34-3/4-in strips of plastic laminate for the countertop edges. Apply high-strength spray adhesive to the long strips and the long edges of the countertop. When the adhesive becomes tacky, apply the strips to the edges, with the extra width and length protruding evenly all around. Bond the strips with a laminate roller. Chuck a flush-trim bit into a router or laminate trimmer and trim the strips all around. Apply and trim the short strips in the same manner.



Step 3

Cut a 35-1/4-in x 57-in piece of plastic laminate for the top. Apply spray adhesive to the panel and the plastic laminate. When the adhesive becomes tacky, lay four 3/8-inch round dowels on the panel in the long direction, two about 4 inches from the edges, and the remaining two spaced evenly between the edge dowels. Position the laminate on the dowels, centered on the panel. Slide one edge dowel out from under the laminate and lightly press the laminate against the edge of the panel with your hand. Verify that the laminate has not shifted, and then remove each dowel in succession, pressing the laminate onto the panel. With all the dowels removed, bond the laminate to the panel with the laminate roller.



Step 4

Flush-trim the top laminate, then chuck a bevel-trim bit into your router or laminate trimmer. Adjust the depth of cut so the bottom of the bevel is slightly above the top edge of the edge strips (Bevel Detail). Bevel-trim the top laminate.



Step 5

Position the countertop on the lower island with one edge tightly against the transition skin (M) and centered side to side. Using the holes in the base cabinet corner braces as guides, drill pilot holes into the underside of the countertop and drive #8 x 1-in flathead wood screws. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the cart garage upper side cleat into the underside of the countertop. Drive #8 x 2-1/2-in flathead wood screws.



Step 6

From 3/4-inch MDF, cut the upper panel (X), long edging (Y), short side edging (Z), long side edging (AA), long end edging and runner (BB), and short end edging (CC) to size. Glue and clamp the edging and runner to the panel (Upper Countertop). With the glue dry, sand the edges flush.



Step 7

Cut 1-3/4-inch-wide plastic laminate strips 1/2 inch longer than the respective edges. In two steps, adhere the strips to opposing edges with contact cement and flush-trim them. Trim as close to the inside corner as possible, and finish the job with a coarse file and sandpaper on a firm sanding block. Cut plastic laminate for the top 1 inch larger than the panel in each dimension. To conserve spray adhesive, mark the computer desk notch on the bottom of the laminate and do not spray this area. Apply the laminate in the same manner as for the lower top. Flush-trim the laminate using the flush-trim bit to cut the computer desk notch. As you flush-trim the desk notch, support the excess laminate so it doesn’t break off before you finish routing.



Step 8

Position the upper countertop on the upper island with the edges evenly overhanging all around. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the oven cabinet stretchers (D) into the underside of the countertop. Drive #8 x 1-1/2-in flathead wood screws. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the desk frame upper long and short plates (J, K) into the underside of the countertop. Drive #8 x 2-1/2-in flathead wood screws.

Complete the Island

Step 1

Retrieve the toe-kick trim (N), inner back skin (O), inner side skin (P), end skin (Q), and outer side skin (R). Adhere the parts to the island with construction adhesive.

Step 2

From 3/4-inch MDF, cut the computer cubby top (DD), bottom (EE), and sides (FF) to size. (Before cutting the top and bottom, check the inside width of the computer desk. The cubby should be a snug-but-easy fit.) Glue and clamp the sides between the top and bottom, with the parts flush at the sides and front. (The bottom is cut short for cord access.) Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the top and bottom into the sides. Drive #8 x 2-in flathead wood screws.



Step 3

Seal the front edges of the cubby and then prime and paint it. With the paint dry, position the cubby against the bottom of the countertop and the inner back skin (O). Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the sides (FF) into the desk framing and back of the oven cabinet. Drive #8 x 1-1/2-in flathead wood screws.



Step 4

Retrieve the corner trim (S) and adhere them to the outside corners of the oven cabinet and the computer desk with construction adhesive, temporarily holding them in place with masking tape.



Step 5

Have your electrician install the oven, the electrical and communications devices, and the device covers.

Build the Large Table

Step 1

From 2 x 4s, cut the table rails (GG) and stretchers (HH) to length. Using a pocket-hole jig, drill pocket holes in five of the stretchers and the inside faces of the rails (Large Table Exploded View, Rails and Stretchers Detail).

Step 2

Position the five drilled stretchers between the rails, one at each end with the pocket holes on the inside faces and three evenly spaced between the end rails. Drill countersunk shank holes through the rails. Make the countersinks deep enough to allow a 1/8-inch-thick layer of wood filler over the screw heads. Drive #8 x 3-in flathead wood screws through the rails and into the ends of the stretchers. 



Step 3

To attach the legs, position the remaining undrilled stretcher (HH) 1/2 inch from the leg-end stretcher with the wide face horizontal and flush with the top edges of the frame. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the rails into the horizontal stretcher. Drive #8 x 3-in flathead wood screws.



Step 4

Fill all the screw countersinks with wood filler. When dry, sand the filler flush and sand the outside surfaces of the 2 x 4 frame smooth. Use a utility knife and a straightedge to cut four 3-1/2-in x 48-in strips of iron-on veneer facing from two 12-in x 48-in sheets. Apply the veneer to the outside faces of the rails and outboard end of the frame. (You’ll have one butt-joint seam on each rail.)



Step 5

From 1 x 6 oak boards, cut the table slats (II) to length and finish-sand them. Apply two coats of satin polyurethane to the slats and the veneered face of the table frame, sanding lightly with 220-grit sandpaper or a fine sanding sponge between coats.



Step 6

Lay out the slats bottom face up on a padded flat surface, separating them with 1/4-inch-thick spacers. Position the table frame on the slats, centered side to side with the island end of the frame flush with the inboard ends of the slats. Snug the slats and spacers together with bar clamps with light pressure, and then clamp the frame to the edge slats. Starting at the edges, drive pocket screws through the frame rails and stretchers into the slats. Do not fully seat the screws until all the slats have been loosely pinned to the frame. Check to make certain the slats protrude evenly beyond the frame at the edges and that they are flush with the inboard end, and then seat all the screws. Remove the spacers.

Add the Legs and Install the Table

Step 1

From 1-inch galvanized pipe, nipples, and fittings, assemble the legs (Large Table Leg Assembly). For the 33-1/4-inch-long crossbar pipe, have a Lowe’s associate cut and thread a 36-inch-long pipe. Thread the pipes and nipples into the fittings so the center-to-center and overall dimensions are as shown. Position the holes in the flanges so a line through each pair of holes is parallel to the crossbar pipe.


Step 2

With the tabletop upside down, position the leg assembly upper flanges on the horizontally oriented stretcher (HH), centered end to end and side to side. Using the holes in the flanges as guides, drill pilot holes into the stretcher. Drive #12 x 1-in zinc-plated panhead sheet-metal screws.



Step 3

Position the island end of the table against the side of the cart garage and computer desk, centered side to side. Prop the table in place and level it end-to-end. Drill countersunk shank and pilot holes through the end stretcher (HH) into the side of the cart garage and the computer desk framing. Drive #8 x 2-in flathead wood screws. Remove the prop.



Step 4

Kitchen Island Makeover 3 Ways
Kitchen Island Makeover 3 Ways

Using the holes in the leg assembly floor flanges as guides, drill pilot holes into the floor and drive #8 x 1-in stainless-steel panhead sheet-metal screws.