Patio Hideaway Screen

Before building, you need to determine the overall length of the posts. This will be dictated by how deep you'll need to sink the posts -- possibly 5' in cold climates. A quick call to your building code official will give you guidance. Also, be sure to ask whether your project requires a building permit.

Next, call your utility locating service to reveal buried utilities before you dig. It may take a few days for them to come to your property.

After determining how deep the holes will be, add that depth to the length of the post sticking out of the ground, as shown in the drawing.

Cut the upper rails, vertical dividers, and bottom rail to size for each screen. (See the Cutting List for dimensions.) Drill 2"-deep counterbores on one edge of the bottom rail where you'll attach the vertical dividers, as shown in the bottom rail detail.

To make a frame, screw the vertical dividers to the bottom rail and an upper rail with 3" screws, checking each joint with a framing square.

Lay out a pair of 2x6 posts 40" apart with the best face down (the front of the completed and installed screen). Glue and screw the post cores to the posts with the outside edges flush.

Place the assembled frame in the notches formed by the posts and post cores, 16" down from the top ends of the post; secure with screws.

Cut a couple of 1" spacers. Place the remaining upper rails in position using the spacers to create a 1" space between each rail. Drill 1/8" pilot holes and screw the upper rails in place.

Wearing gloves and goggles, cut strips of flashing long enough to thread between the dividers and screw to the post cores. Weave the flashing through the dividers in alternating patterns as shown. Then, use sheet metal screws to attach the flashing to the post cores. Leave a 1" gap between the rows.

Lay the remaining two posts on the post cores as shown. Drill 1/4" pilot holes and attach the posts with lag screws.

Mark the locations of two postholes 42-1/2" apart, making sure they are well away from buried utility lines. Using a post-hole digger, make your holes about 6" deeper than the length of the post you'll bury. Fill that extra with a 6" layer of gravel, adding it slowly as you test-fit your screen in the holes. Check the top for level, adding small amounts of gravel as needed.

Empty a bag of concrete mix into a wheelbarrow and add water until it reaches the consistency of creamy peanut butter. Shovel the concrete into the postholes and tap it down with a 2x2 scrap to force it into the gravel and eliminate any voids. As the concrete reaches the top of the holes, check that the posts are plum and the top remains level. To hold the screen in place while the concrete dries, first drive two scrap-wood stakes in the ground about 2' in front of the screen at both ends. Attach one end of a 2x4 stud to a stake with one nail and angle the other end until it touches the outside edge of the screen posts. Once the screen is plumb, clamp the 2x4 to the posts and repeat on the other end.

Finish. If you use cedar, seal it with stain to retain the color or leave it natural so it weathers to a rich silvery gray.

Weave. Wear gloves and use 10-inch-wide aluminum flashing strips to form the woven inserts for the panels.

Assemble. The 2×8-inch cedar uprights hide the screws connecting the lattice top pieces for a sleek look.