Install Kitchen Cabinet Crown Moulding

Cut one side piece at least 3 inches larger than you need. Hold it in position on the side of the cabinet with one end flush with the back and mark the location of your miter cut. You could measure, mark and then cut pieces to size, but that method increases the possibility of errors that leave gaps on mitered corners. By using the mounting strips and cabinets to measure the length of each part, you’ll create corners that require a minimum amount of filler.

Miter-cut the crown moulding to length. Then nail it in position against the mounting board with the bottom edge even with the top of the cabinet side.

To set up your miter saw for consistent miters, first cut a 3/4-inch-by-1-1/2-inch board the length of your saw base. Apply double-sided tape only to the faces of the board that will rest on the saw base — not on the part that rotates. Remove the backing on the tape and rest a length of crown moulding against the saw fence with the flat edges against the fence and saw base. Place the 3/4-inch-by-1-1/2-inch board against the crown moulding to hold it in place, press down on the taped areas and remove the crown moulding. Rotate the saw to a 45-degree miter setting and cut through the 3/4-inch-by-1-1/2-inch board. Rotate it to the other 45-degree setting, make a second cut and remove the center section. Now you have a support for your crown moulding that also tells you the precise location of your saw blade.

Cut a front moulding about 6 inches over size and then miter-cut one end to match the miter of the side moulding. Hold the mitered ends together while a helper marks the other end at the cabinet side.

Miter-cut the front piece to length and nail it in place against the mounting board with the bottom edge even with the top of the cabinet frame. Aligning the bottom moulding edge with the top of the cabinet frame should eliminate curves and sags. As a precaution, though, check your work immediately to make sure the moulding runs in a straight line.

To apply the final side moulding, miter-cut one end of the moulding about 1/4 inch longer than the moulding on the opposite edge. Test the fit and gradually shorten the piece using miter cuts until you have a snug fit. Then nail the final side moulding in place.

Use drywall repair patch to fill nail holes and any gaps at the corners. The patch material we used goes on pink and turns white when it dries. Use a 320-grit sanding sponge to smooth the patched areas. Apply two coats of paint to match the cabinet finish.

If you’re working with a stained wood cabinet finish and using unpainted wood mouldings, remove one of the doors and take it to the store. Ask a Lowe’s associate for advice on matching the color and sheen of the door finish.